How to remove this freewheel(?)?
06-07-17, 10:24 AM
#1
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How to remove this freewheel(?)?
Hello,
newbie here
I want to fix my bike, put a 7 speed freewheel on it, but first want to know how to remove it.
I've watched a bunch of videos and browsed through Sheldon Brown's website and still can't figure what what freewheel tool do I need
I attached photos
can anyone tell me how to remove it properly? I want to clean it out and then use it a bit before putting a 7 speed on there.
Also to note, there are only 6 bearings per-side! Is that normal? Aren't there supposed to be enough evenly spaced to fill the cervices?
newbie here
I want to fix my bike, put a 7 speed freewheel on it, but first want to know how to remove it.
I've watched a bunch of videos and browsed through Sheldon Brown's website and still can't figure what what freewheel tool do I need
I attached photos
can anyone tell me how to remove it properly? I want to clean it out and then use it a bit before putting a 7 speed on there.
Also to note, there are only 6 bearings per-side! Is that normal? Aren't there supposed to be enough evenly spaced to fill the cervices?
06-07-17, 10:43 AM
#2
Senior Member
You are looking at an early Uniglide cassette, not a freewheel. You hold the sprocket stack near the rear with a chainwhip, and use a second chainwhip to unscrew the smallest sprocket, allowing the rest to slide off. You would need to find either a 7 speed Uniglide cassette (difficult to find, now), a 7 speed first-position uniglide sprocket/modify a modern 7 speed cassette to fit, or replace the hub/wheel altogether for a modern setup.
*edit*
There is a "7 index" visible on one of the sprockets, so it is likely that someone removed a couple of them at some point...
*edit*
There is a "7 index" visible on one of the sprockets, so it is likely that someone removed a couple of them at some point...
06-07-17, 11:19 AM
#3
Senior Member
There should be 9 !/4 '' bearings in each side of the hub , Replace with new bearing and grease . As wshruba said use chainwhips to remove the cogs , at this point when you remove your smallest cog the rest of them will slide off . To remove the freehub all you need id a 10mm hex , put it in the hub to remove the bolt ,once you do that the freehub will come off .
06-07-17, 12:38 PM
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if you are lucky you may be able to purchase (and use your existing hub and rim) a newer hyperglide freehub. they can be had for under 25 dollars on the web. like this one
don't let the description fool you. it'll work on pretty much any shimano freehub type hub. except for some very early ones, which is why i mentioned 'lucky'.
don't let the description fool you. it'll work on pretty much any shimano freehub type hub. except for some very early ones, which is why i mentioned 'lucky'.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 06-07-17 at 12:44 PM.
06-07-17, 12:53 PM
#5
Senior Member
To the OP: ignore the previous postings.
You have a first-generation Uniglide cassette hub. It is press-fit onto the hub shell. It cannot be replaced. There is no 10mm hex bolt, as in later generations of Shimano cassette hubs.
You can clean and relube the freehub without removing it; first you have to remove the axle/cones/balls. Use a solvent such as varsol/kerosene to strip the gunk out of the freehub body, and then after waiting a day for the solvent to evaporate, relube with a medium-weight oil.
You may be able to fit 7 cogs onto the freehub, provided you use 7-speed spacers, and the 7-speed threaded first cog. This cog looks like the 6-speed version, but it is narrower.
You should be able to reuse most of your existing cogs; if they are worn: flip them over.
You have a first-generation Uniglide cassette hub. It is press-fit onto the hub shell. It cannot be replaced. There is no 10mm hex bolt, as in later generations of Shimano cassette hubs.
You can clean and relube the freehub without removing it; first you have to remove the axle/cones/balls. Use a solvent such as varsol/kerosene to strip the gunk out of the freehub body, and then after waiting a day for the solvent to evaporate, relube with a medium-weight oil.
You may be able to fit 7 cogs onto the freehub, provided you use 7-speed spacers, and the 7-speed threaded first cog. This cog looks like the 6-speed version, but it is narrower.
You should be able to reuse most of your existing cogs; if they are worn: flip them over.
06-07-17, 12:59 PM
#6
Banned
the last cog unscrews from the driver body (2 chainwhips) then the splined cogs slide off..
they made the early cassettes sort of like freewheels, 2 chain whips took those apart too,
the freewheel remover is a separate tool
Usually people with freewheels think they have cassettes..
they made the early cassettes sort of like freewheels, 2 chain whips took those apart too,
the freewheel remover is a separate tool
Usually people with freewheels think they have cassettes..
06-08-17, 12:07 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by wschruba
....
There is a "7 index" visible on one of the sprockets, so it is likely that someone removed a couple of them at some point...
There is a "7 index" visible on one of the sprockets, so it is likely that someone removed a couple of them at some point...
You think it will be too much work ? Hmmm, going to scour the internet. I saw conversion guides
Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
To the OP: ignore the previous postings.
You have a first-generation Uniglide cassette hub. It is press-fit onto the hub shell. It cannot be replaced. There is no 10mm hex bolt, as in later generations of Shimano cassette hubs.
You can clean and relube the freehub without removing it; first you have to remove the axle/cones/balls. Use a solvent such as varsol/kerosene to strip the gunk out of the freehub body, and then after waiting a day for the solvent to evaporate, relube with a medium-weight oil.
You may be able to fit 7 cogs onto the freehub, provided you use 7-speed spacers, and the 7-speed threaded first cog. This cog looks like the 6-speed version, but it is narrower.
You should be able to reuse most of your existing cogs; if they are worn: flip them over.
You have a first-generation Uniglide cassette hub. It is press-fit onto the hub shell. It cannot be replaced. There is no 10mm hex bolt, as in later generations of Shimano cassette hubs.
You can clean and relube the freehub without removing it; first you have to remove the axle/cones/balls. Use a solvent such as varsol/kerosene to strip the gunk out of the freehub body, and then after waiting a day for the solvent to evaporate, relube with a medium-weight oil.
You may be able to fit 7 cogs onto the freehub, provided you use 7-speed spacers, and the 7-speed threaded first cog. This cog looks like the 6-speed version, but it is narrower.
You should be able to reuse most of your existing cogs; if they are worn: flip them over.
Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
To the OP: ignore the previous postings.
You have a first-generation Uniglide cassette hub.......
You may be able to fit 7 cogs onto the freehub, provided you use 7-speed spacers, and the 7-speed threaded first cog. This cog looks like the 6-speed version, but it is narrower.
You should be able to reuse most of your existing cogs; if they are worn: flip them over.
You have a first-generation Uniglide cassette hub.......
You may be able to fit 7 cogs onto the freehub, provided you use 7-speed spacers, and the 7-speed threaded first cog. This cog looks like the 6-speed version, but it is narrower.
You should be able to reuse most of your existing cogs; if they are worn: flip them over.
Could I buy a 7 speed cassette and add them to my existing Uniglide cassette?
Originally Posted by bikeman715
There should be 9 !/4 '' bearings in each side of the hub , Replace with new bearing and grease . As wshruba said use chainwhips to remove the cogs , at this point when you remove your smallest cog the rest of them will slide off . To remove the freehub all you need id a 10mm hex , put it in the hub to remove the bolt ,once you do that the freehub will come off .
06-08-17, 01:50 PM
#8
Really Old Senior Member
You need 9 balls per SIDE.
You don't need a chain whip (now) because the smallest cog is already off!
To put it back on, you just screw it on and pedaling will tighten it.
You don't need a chain whip (now) because the smallest cog is already off!
To put it back on, you just screw it on and pedaling will tighten it.
06-08-17, 02:56 PM
#9
Senior Member
Bill Kapaun, he might still need the chainwhips to get the first clog (in his photos ) to come off then the rest will slide off . I thought the poster understood 18 bearings since I pointed out to him 9 preside . but reading his respond I guess not
06-09-17, 09:40 AM
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Okay,
I get 18 of 1/4 steel balls during this weekend.
I have time off to do more research and see how much I can mod my bike
I get 18 of 1/4 steel balls during this weekend.
I have time off to do more research and see how much I can mod my bike
