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supton 06-09-17 01:21 PM

BB tool
 
I've been looking but can't figure out what tool I need to get to replace my BB. I pulled a crankarm off the bike and verified it's an ISIS drive, but after that... I don't know what I'm looking for. I wasn't bright enough to measure the diam of the lockring. Do I just need to count the number of indents around the lockring? I'm confused, as most ISIS bottom brackets come up a different set of splines than what I have.

Sorry for the bad pic, I was rushing while working last night. I remembered to take a pic but didn't do that before cleaning things up (not sure why!).
http://i68.tinypic.com/2w702ag.jpg

fietsbob 06-09-17 01:51 PM

Soap and water and a scrub brush. First!

Its covered with crud, and who can see past the dirt?






:rolleyes:

JanMM 06-09-17 01:55 PM


Originally Posted by supton (Post 19642698)
I've been looking but can't figure out what tool I need to get to replace my BB. I pulled a crankarm off the bike and verified it's an ISIS drive, but after that... I don't know what I'm looking for. I wasn't bright enough to measure the diam of the lockring. Do I just need to count the number of indents around the lockring? I'm confused, as most ISIS bottom brackets come up a different set of splines than what I have.

Sorry for the bad pic, I was rushing while working last night. I remembered to take a pic but didn't do that before cleaning things up (not sure why!).
http://i68.tinypic.com/2w702ag.jpg

You sure it's not a Shimano Octolink splined BB?

supton 06-09-17 02:12 PM


Originally Posted by JanMM (Post 19642783)
You sure it's not a Shimano Octolink splined BB?

Personally--no idea, not a bike mechanic. Looking at Sheldon's site and elsewhere, it looks like an ISIS drive. Octalink doesn't spline the full length. I did something about 8 and 10 spline versions of... something, already forgot.

I do know the BB is hollow, and it's a 3 piece crank setup.

Edit: thanks for posting the pic, darn work filters block tinypic on me.

ptempel 06-09-17 02:26 PM

It looks like ISIS. I use the Park BBT-22 and I know its good for both Octalink and ISIS bottom brackets. But your pic throws me off in that I don't see the typical lockring with the splines going inward. Color me confused. Would be curious as to what the other side of the BB looks like...

Edit: I guess ISIS also comes in a version that use a traditional pin wrench lockrings:

https://janheine.files.wordpress.com...pg?w=768&h=450

I learn something new every day... :)

fietsbob 06-09-17 02:36 PM

If they spent the big bucks for those SKF , no bikes don't come with them, I Expect they'd know.

Yes , Octalink splines are squared off..

HillRider 06-09-17 03:48 PM


Originally Posted by JanMM (Post 19642783)
You sure it's not a Shimano Octolink splined BB?

Nope, it has 10 splines. Octalinks have (wait for it.....) 8 splines.

Bill Kapaun 06-09-17 04:26 PM

Nashbar ISIS Bottom Bracket

supton 06-09-17 06:57 PM

Got other side off. 8 indents, 40mm OD.

http://i67.tinypic.com/27yde6a.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/143nsir.jpg

Ah, ok, once I get that outer lockring off, then I should see splines behind that. Got it. I couldn't figure out why I couldn't see the splines on the ISIS bottom brackets that I could find, have to get the lockring off first, then I can get to it.

supton 06-09-17 07:04 PM

While on the subject... looks like the same tool required here. Same 40mm OD on the lockring. But on this bike, what are the two dots on the crankarm bolt? Is this a self extracting crank arm? It's 2007-ish Ultegra. I thought of pulling it but decided I didn't need to at this time.

http://i64.tinypic.com/90u536.jpg

supton 06-09-17 07:09 PM


Originally Posted by ptempel (Post 19642867)
It looks like ISIS. I use the Park BBT-22 and I know its good for both Octalink and ISIS bottom brackets. But your pic throws me off in that I don't see the typical lockring with the splines going inward. Color me confused. Would be curious as to what the other side of the BB looks like...

Edit: I guess ISIS also comes in a version that use a traditional pin wrench lockrings:

https://janheine.files.wordpress.com...pg?w=768&h=450

I learn something new every day... :)

Missed this post. Ok, I wondered when I saw the setup if it might be old-school--I did mess with the cup and cone BB on my Raleigh, so I know the tool you are talking about. Of course I don't have that one... but your pic does look a lot like what I have.

Of course mine is kinda screwy, it has an oring on it, that does nothing, seemingly. I was able to easily pry it off. Seems odd that it doesn't bottom out. [The red bike does not use this o-ring setup.]

http://i67.tinypic.com/b46p6s.jpg

Edit: o-ring sits in the groove here; I pried it out for this photo. It basically fills in the groove for aesthetics I'm guessing.

HillRider 06-09-17 08:11 PM


Originally Posted by supton (Post 19643394)
But on this bike, what are the two dots on the crankarm bolt? Is this a self extracting crank arm? It's 2007-ish Ultegra.

Yes, Ultegra Octalink cranks had self extraction crankarm bolts. Back off the bolt with a 8 mm hex key and after it turns a rotation or so it gets tight again. Continue unscrewing the bolt and the arm will come right off.

joejack951 06-09-17 08:20 PM


Originally Posted by ptempel (Post 19642867)
Edit: I guess ISIS also comes in a version that use a traditional pin wrench lockrings:

DO NOT try to use a traditional pin wrench to remove those ISIS bottom bracket cups. They are aluminum and installed much tighter than a traditional cup and cone BB lockring would be. You'll destroy them quickly. Buy the right tool for the job. Unfortunately, for some unknown reason Park Tool, whose tools I can usually trust, makes a god-awful 8-pin tool for this job. Don't waste your money on it. Get this one and be done with it: Truvativ Isis Drive BB Tool > Accessories > Tools & Maintenance > Bottom Bracket Tools | Jenson USA

joejack951 06-09-17 08:24 PM


Originally Posted by supton (Post 19643383)
Ah, ok, once I get that outer lockring off, then I should see splines behind that. Got it. I couldn't figure out why I couldn't see the splines on the ISIS bottom brackets that I could find, have to get the lockring off first, then I can get to it.

That's not a lockring. It's the bottom bracket cup itself, but with an 8-notch pattern that Truvativ and a few others used for the short time that ISIS was around. See my other post for the tool you'll want to remove those cups. Don't bother with anything else as you'll just make your life harder. Trust me.

A few people have mentioned splined bottom bracket cups which some vendors, like FSA, did use with their ISIS BBs.

ptempel 06-10-17 07:08 AM


Originally Posted by joejack951 (Post 19643509)
DO NOT try to use a traditional pin wrench to remove those ISIS bottom bracket cups. They are aluminum and installed much tighter than a traditional cup and cone BB lockring would be. You'll destroy them quickly. Buy the right tool for the job. Unfortunately, for some unknown reason Park Tool, whose tools I can usually trust, makes a god-awful 8-pin tool for this job. Don't waste your money on it. Get this one and be done with it: Truvativ Isis Drive BB Tool > Accessories > Tools & Maintenance > Bottom Bracket Tools | Jenson USA

Thanks for the warning. I'm used to the splined Shimano style lock rings. @noglider pointed me to a tool to hold the Park BBT-2 tool on and works like a charm.

AlexCyclistRoch 06-10-17 07:32 AM


Originally Posted by HillRider (Post 19643497)
Yes, Ultegra Octalink cranks had self extraction crankarm bolts. Back off the bolt with a 8 mm hex key and after it turns a rotation or so it gets tight again. Continue unscrewing the bolt and the arm will come right off.

FWIW, you really need a dedicated 8mm hex tool on a 3/8" ratchet wrench to get these off. I found out the hard way that my Harbor Freight 8mm ball end t-handle was not up to the job.

JanMM 06-10-17 08:51 AM


Originally Posted by HillRider (Post 19643068)
Nope, it has 10 splines. Octalinks have (wait for it.....) 8 splines.

And Hexalink would have six splines!!!

joejack951 06-10-17 01:22 PM


Originally Posted by AlexCyclistRoch (Post 19644053)
FWIW, you really need a dedicated 8mm hex tool on a 3/8" ratchet wrench to get these off. I found out the hard way that my Harbor Freight 8mm ball end t-handle was not up to the job.

An extra-long hex key can do the trick, but a 8mm hex socket is preferable. Those bolts get ~30 ft. lbs. so you need more than a few inches of leverage if you expect to loosen them.

supton 06-12-17 06:00 AM

Thanks! I will get that tool, when I need to.


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