What's the best way to get good disc brakes?
08-03-17, 03:58 PM
#26
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New rotors don't mean true rotors and even true rotors can be warped when mounted on an imperfect hub.
Your brake levers shouldn't bottom out period. If you can't tune your brakes so that they don't bottom you are using the wrong levers for the calipers. I know a bit about the latter situation from adapting Campy levers to TRP HY/RD calipers. But I don't think that's the case here.
Your brake levers shouldn't bottom out period. If you can't tune your brakes so that they don't bottom you are using the wrong levers for the calipers. I know a bit about the latter situation from adapting Campy levers to TRP HY/RD calipers. But I don't think that's the case here.
ALSO, this is a stock setup on a bike that was originally well over $1k new.
Last edited by ModeratedUser; 08-03-17 at 04:07 PM.
08-03-17, 03:58 PM
#27
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cable operated road disc it is, then .. Hy RD, Spyre from TRP or the Avid BB7 road, (or Phil Klampers, USA made)
08-03-17, 04:03 PM
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Both of my drop bar bikes have 160mm front discs. I can get the rear wheel to lift off the ground while stopping easily on both. If you weigh considerably more than me (160 lbs. currently) then maybe something bigger makes sense, or if you want even lighter lever feel. I would wait on swapping rotors until you've fixed the lever bottoming issue first.
I'm considerably more at 270 lbs. I'll be stopping by my LBS and I'll ask someone I know there to both look at it and ride it. My bet is that he won't be able to lock the brake either and he weighs ~185.
08-03-17, 04:05 PM
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08-03-17, 04:11 PM
#30
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Im OK with thec BB7 MTN on my Bike Friday pocket Llama , the 160 front disc on 406 front wheel has to be applied carefully
or I'll flip myself over the bars..
So maybe your mechanics skills are suggesting having someone else look at it , in a bike shop?
cannot fix it for you over the internet , or pour your beer either..
or I'll flip myself over the bars..
So maybe your mechanics skills are suggesting having someone else look at it , in a bike shop?
cannot fix it for you over the internet , or pour your beer either..
08-03-17, 05:00 PM
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At what point in the travel of the lever does it lock up? At what point does it make contact but not lock up? Can you continue to pull the lever until it bottoms out? Does the brake arm begin to move as soon as you pull the lever?
08-03-17, 06:17 PM
#32
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Im OK with thec BB7 MTN on my Bike Friday pocket Llama , the 160 front disc on 406 front wheel has to be applied carefully
or I'll flip myself over the bars..
So maybe your mechanics skills are suggesting having someone else look at it , in a bike shop?
cannot fix it for you over the internet , or pour your beer either..
or I'll flip myself over the bars..
So maybe your mechanics skills are suggesting having someone else look at it , in a bike shop?
cannot fix it for you over the internet , or pour your beer either..
08-03-17, 06:28 PM
#33
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Are you talking about the wheel spinning on a stand? - After pulling the lever a little bit.
Let me try to convey what is happening here again. There's no grabbing power here. I can have my hands on the drop position and I can't make the rear brake lock up and that's with me rolling on the bike.
Can I pull the lever and it bottoms out? In the drops and with a good amount of force, I can make the lever bottom out. Did I mention there's no grabbing power with these pads?
The brakes begin to move as soon as the lever starts to move. Did I mention the pads have no grabbing power?
And yes the rotors were cleaned before putting these new pads on.
08-03-17, 06:44 PM
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You have to define when is your lock up here. Are you talking about rolling with me on the bike? - Never
Are you talking about the wheel spinning on a stand? - After pulling the lever a little bit.
Let me try to convey what is happening here again. There's no grabbing power here. I can have my hands on the drop position and I can't make the rear brake lock up and that's with me rolling on the bike.
Can I pull the lever and it bottoms out? In the drops and with a good amount of force, I can make the lever bottom out. Did I mention there's no grabbing power with these pads?
The brakes begin to move as soon as the lever starts to move. Did I mention the pads have no grabbing power?
And yes the rotors were cleaned before putting these new pads on.
Are you talking about the wheel spinning on a stand? - After pulling the lever a little bit.
Let me try to convey what is happening here again. There's no grabbing power here. I can have my hands on the drop position and I can't make the rear brake lock up and that's with me rolling on the bike.
Can I pull the lever and it bottoms out? In the drops and with a good amount of force, I can make the lever bottom out. Did I mention there's no grabbing power with these pads?
The brakes begin to move as soon as the lever starts to move. Did I mention the pads have no grabbing power?
And yes the rotors were cleaned before putting these new pads on.
08-03-17, 06:54 PM
#35
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No it doesn't mean true rotors, but it doesn't mean whacked out and abused rotors either. These are new and straight rotors in this instance. Also the little leeway here can be easily adjusted out with a simple twist of that little thing on the levers that that you twist to get the play out.
ALSO, this is a stock setup on a bike that was originally well over $1k new.
ALSO, this is a stock setup on a bike that was originally well over $1k new.
You came here asking for help on improving disc brake stopping power. You've then argued with just about all of the advice you've been given. It almost seems like you started this thread just to trash disc brakes...
So one more time before I end my contributions here, if you can bottom out your brake levers your set up sucks and needs adjustment. Now that you've added the bit about being 270 lbs. I'll also suggest not trying to stop with just the rear brake. Fix it so it can lock but start using the front more than the rear once you get the kinks worked out. Your face may thank you some day when you don't smash into something because you stopped in time
08-03-17, 10:39 PM
#36
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Just to add one more thing since it came up. You can't just throw a 203mm rotor on any bike you want. Forks have to be built to handle the extra leverage from a larger rotor and I'm guessing most road bikes are limited to 160mm maybe 180mm.
08-05-17, 11:22 AM
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If it passes that test then it may be a housing compression issue because the pads and moved with the lever without resistance but cannot continue to exert additional pressure through the lever stroke then the housing is likely compressing but the piston is not moving. If the brake bottoms out this is usually what is happening. If the lever doesn't bottom out but you can't stop still then the pads may be bad. But since you are saying the levers are bottoming out I suspect the housing is compressing, or another possibility is that the levers do not have the right amount of cable pull. Just because the bike costs $1k+ doesn't mean they optimized the braking.
They state;
Linear strands of steel are used to encircle the Slick-Lube Liner creating a compressionless ring. This delivers responsive, precise, crisp performance necessary in shift applications.
Should be interesting to hear the replacement suggested.
I mentioned that this bike cost over $1k to show this was put together from a maker that has a little bit of knowledge in putting a bike together. I mentioned it to try to convey this was not some POS bike put together by somebody.
08-05-17, 11:39 AM
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I'm going to do my best not to get snarky but I can't make any promises...
You came here asking for help on improving disc brake stopping power. You've then argued with just about all of the advice you've been given. It almost seems like you started this thread just to trash disc brakes...
So one more time before I end my contributions here, if you can bottom out your brake levers your set up sucks and needs adjustment. Now that you've added the bit about being 270 lbs. I'll also suggest not trying to stop with just the rear brake. Fix it so it can lock but start using the front more than the rear once you get the kinks worked out. Your face may thank you some day when you don't smash into something because you stopped in time
You came here asking for help on improving disc brake stopping power. You've then argued with just about all of the advice you've been given. It almost seems like you started this thread just to trash disc brakes...
So one more time before I end my contributions here, if you can bottom out your brake levers your set up sucks and needs adjustment. Now that you've added the bit about being 270 lbs. I'll also suggest not trying to stop with just the rear brake. Fix it so it can lock but start using the front more than the rear once you get the kinks worked out. Your face may thank you some day when you don't smash into something because you stopped in time
Just about all my post I state something such as "I most welcome any and all replies." So I say take your time, take a nice deep breath, and get all snarky. My track record should show that I don't come here often, so it's no big deal.
I have used disc brakes on other bikes. Most recent a MTB with Hayes brakes. They actually worked just fine on that setup! I could easily locked up front brake on go over the handlebar if I wanted to. Does that mean I should like disc brakes to eternity? Shut up and deal with it? BTW I am using my back brake to see how well it's working and to SHOW how well it's working, or not working.
08-05-17, 11:44 AM
#39
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Just to catch up on the last day. My buddy wasn't at the shop yesterday, so I didn't have his input. I did manage to lock up my brake yesterday! I just have to do it on some nice smooth pavement. I also have to kinda throw my weight forward while standing on the pedals. So we have success!!!!!! I love disc brakes!!!! Disc brakes are the best thing since apple pie!!!!!
08-09-17, 10:30 AM
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This goes against what the Makers are saying about these housings. LEX-SL
They state;
Linear strands of steel are used to encircle the Slick-Lube Liner creating a compressionless ring. This delivers responsive, precise, crisp performance necessary in shift applications.
Should be interesting to hear the replacement suggested.
I mentioned that this bike cost over $1k to show this was put together from a maker that has a little bit of knowledge in putting a bike together. I mentioned it to try to convey this was not some POS bike put together by somebody.
They state;
Linear strands of steel are used to encircle the Slick-Lube Liner creating a compressionless ring. This delivers responsive, precise, crisp performance necessary in shift applications.
Should be interesting to hear the replacement suggested.
I mentioned that this bike cost over $1k to show this was put together from a maker that has a little bit of knowledge in putting a bike together. I mentioned it to try to convey this was not some POS bike put together by somebody.
08-09-17, 10:39 AM
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Sorry for the confusion.
08-09-17, 10:51 AM
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Happen to see my ace friend/mechanic Monday night and had him take a look at the brakes. I didn't give him the heads up on this thread or anything. I just asked him how he likes the rear brake and I told him I replaced the pads. That was pretty much the extent of the "heads up". He asked to use the drop position or the hoods. I told him the hoods as that's where I'm at most of the time.
He said the brakes were a little loose and could use a little tightening up, but it was within tolerance. He said he'd tighten the travel a little. I told him I would too but for what I'm doing, it didn't need it. I then told him they aren't that grabby and I don't like them the way they are. He offered to clean them, but I told him I did already. He said what he would do, cause he likes them kinda grabby too, is to roughen up the rotors with some sandpaper. I told him that sounds like a VERY good idea as I also like them kinda grabby and I think I'll follow him up on this idea.
Think I'm just going to rely on him for any advice, but thanks guys.
He said the brakes were a little loose and could use a little tightening up, but it was within tolerance. He said he'd tighten the travel a little. I told him I would too but for what I'm doing, it didn't need it. I then told him they aren't that grabby and I don't like them the way they are. He offered to clean them, but I told him I did already. He said what he would do, cause he likes them kinda grabby too, is to roughen up the rotors with some sandpaper. I told him that sounds like a VERY good idea as I also like them kinda grabby and I think I'll follow him up on this idea.
Think I'm just going to rely on him for any advice, but thanks guys.
