Originally Posted by maddog34

i repair bikes owned by other people. your assumptions are amusing, but may cause problems... your wordings are not specific as to what others should do... when i pointed this out, you told me to "chill"... which is yet another bad assumption on your part.... if i had been "hot" about the problem you have, you would have been informed of such

quit making bad assumptions.
quit assuming others know what you might have implied... the typical question asked on this forum comes from folks with little to no experience, and then, there are those that lurk and read other's threads on subjects related to their bike's issues.

and FYI, my ancient road bike still has the second 6 sp. freewheel ever installed on it, and that one was put on because i wanted a wider gear ratio, not because the first one was worn out... that Trek has well over 20k miles on it... it was my only transpo for about ten years, too.... one heck of a commuter bike, eh? I did buy a 7 sp. freewheel a few years ago, but the frame didn't like the width, the chain would rub the chain stay occasionally when i tested it, so i just flipped the 6 sp. back on.... it works fine, as does the sedis sport chain, original DA hubs, and Campy/Suntour Ders. A cyclone rear, and neuvo record front... the cyclone got treated to newer rollers recently.... and i installed a set of teflon Jagwires at at the same time... the ancient Elephant cables were still fine, but i wanted to change up the coloring on my trek.
guess i do know how to maintain my personal bikes, eh?

"really tight" is not a good way to tell someone how to install a lock ring... pretty vague, actually.... as is "one click, then one more click"... at least you saw fit to include a qualifier about your lack of strength... some may not comprehend your weakness correctly, though.

and since you seem to have not run into a stuck lock ring on a not well maintained bike, you become the "odd man out"... they happen... broken spacers happen... split shims happen... stripped out lock ring threads happen... etc. and then, there's an occasional cross-thread... they can get interesting to correct... and one came thru my shop with a lock ring that had been installed by hammer and screwdriver... it wasn't tight enough, btw... i filed the splines slightly on that freehub, then cranked the lockring down using my usual force on it... still working fine, last i heard.... ;-)

a 24" breaker bar might be what someone uses to drive a 1" socket.... and they may have strength way beyond yours. "Monkey Fist" is, unfortunately, alive and well in the bigger world... trust me on that.

Originally Posted by shelbyfv

I had to try it and I stand corrected! Finger tight and then torqued to 40 clicked 6 or 8 times, so definitely tighter than I do it by "experienced" touch. I've never had one loosen but they'll go on tighter from now on....

Originally Posted by flanso

The rear axle nuts on air cooled VW Beetles required tightening torque of 350 foot pounds. Few mechanics had torque wrenches that went that high so bathroom scales were common in VW repair shops.

Originally Posted by shelbyfv

I'll suggest a breaker bar when you remove it, avoid worse surprises....

Originally Posted by hhnngg1

Dumb question here, but how do you get a 3/8 inch torque wrench to attach to the cassette to tighten it up?

Originally Posted by hhnngg1

By any chance do you think a (much) cheaper Harbor freight tool would do the trik?

Originally Posted by hhnngg1

Dumb question here, but how do you get a 3/8 inch torque wrench to attach to the cassette to tighten it up?

Originally Posted by Sy Reene

Finger tight has always worked for me.

Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy

40 nm feels like a lot to me.

Originally Posted by hokiefyd

Have you confirmed the correct unit of measure? 40 Nm is about 29 lb*ft, which is about as much torque as you'd put on an oil pan drain bolt -- or even less than that in many cases:

https://www.hollonoil.com/OCH/Engine%...ue%20Chart.pdf

In fact, I own two Honda V-6s, and 29 lb*ft is the exact torque spec for my oil pan drain bolts. So the cassette lock ring on my bike uses the exact same torque spec as my oil pan drain bolts.

These lock rings truly aren't meant to be muscled on. Maybe you were using 40 lb*ft?

Originally Posted by hokiefyd

Have you confirmed the correct unit of measure? 40 Nm is about 29 lb*ft, which is about as much torque as you'd put on an oil pan drain bolt -- or even less than that in many cases:

https://www.hollonoil.com/OCH/Engine%...ue%20Chart.pdf

In fact, I own two Honda V-6s, and 29 lb*ft is the exact torque spec for my oil pan drain bolts. So the cassette lock ring on my bike uses the exact same torque spec as my oil pan drain bolts.

These lock rings truly aren't meant to be muscled on. Maybe you were using 40 lb*ft?

Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy

Both ft-lb and Nm are printed right on the wrench's scale.

Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy

Or are you implying that I'm an idiot?

Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy

It's a heckuva lot more than 2 clicks from the ring.

Originally Posted by hokiefyd

That's cool -- many don't.



I'm not implying anything. I simply asked if the correct unit of measure was used. It was a suggestion from one cyclist to another. I have found that I have mixed up inch pounds and foot pounds with something; it's a mistake that I've committed myself in the past.



I agree -- 40 Nm is certainly more than two clicks from the lock ring.