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Old 08-11-17, 06:10 AM   #1
baboonst
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Shimano 600 6s 21-12T casette replacement.

HI, I have recently bought great bike Koga Road Speed 1980 - in a really good condition, I am only concerned about 6 speed casette ( 21-12T or maybe I counted it wornd and it's 13 ) which needs to be replaced. I have searched the internet but haven't found anything Can someone suggest me where to look or what to get ?
JK
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Old 08-11-17, 06:44 AM   #2
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I'm very sure sure it's a freewheel, not a cassette. If it's a freewheel, new 6 and 7-speed freewheels are still readily available and a 7-speed will fit in your current dropout spacing. Further assuming friction shifting, the 7-speed will work with your shifters.

Here is one source for 6 and 7-speed freewheels but there are a lot of other sellers as a Google search will show:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/freewheels.html

If you do change the freewheel I recommend a new chain to go with it.
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Old 08-11-17, 09:53 AM   #3
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Hillrider is correct about the Freewheel, not cassette. You can indeed still buy factory fresh Shimano 6 speed freewheels. The difference between the new ones and the 1980s equivalent is that the old ones let the cogs come off for custom cog arrangements, but the new ones are riveted in place. This makes the new ones lighter weight, but you're stuck with the ratios Shimano happens to offer. If you're feeling particularly DIY, you can save the old one and rebuild it with fresh cogs as you find on ebay. I've done it a few times myself, and the only tip Sheldon Brown didn't mention in his rebuilding guides was not to use too much grease inside the freewheeling body! Too much grease won't let it Freewheel freely enough. You want just enough to keep the balls in place as you reassemble.
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Old 08-11-17, 10:15 AM   #4
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Looks like a freewheel to me as well, probably 13-21 since 12T didn't become common until 7- and 8-speed.

There isn't much demand for 13-21 freewheels anymore, so you'll have to go NOS if you want the same ratios. IRD makes a 13-24, which is probably as close as you'll get in new production: Classica Freewheels 5/6/7-Speed ? Interloc Racing Design / IRD
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Old 08-11-17, 11:22 AM   #5
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Guys, this is what I see when I remove the wheel.
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Old 08-11-17, 11:39 AM   #6
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That's a Uni Glide.
The end cog is screwed on, requiring 2 chain whips to spin off.
The larger cogs can be flipped.
http://sheldonbrown.com/images/k7-bulge.jpg

What's wrong with the cassette?

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Old 08-11-17, 11:51 AM   #7
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So it is supposed to be fitted with cassete rather then a freewheel right ?
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Old 08-11-17, 12:53 PM   #8
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So it is supposed to be fitted with cassete rather then a freewheel right ?
It's a Uni glide Cassette.
You can use regular hyper glide cogs (except for the threaded cog) by filing a bit off the wider "tab".
Freewheel or Cassette?
http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#uniglide


You still didn't say what was wrong with it.

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Old 08-11-17, 02:01 PM   #9
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What's wrong with the cassette?
+1. Apart from being dirty, it doesn't look too worn to me.
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Old 08-11-17, 03:07 PM   #10
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Just a question for the benefit of the OP.

Were the first generation (1980) 5/6 speed Shimano freehubs compatible with the later SIS uniglide? (Maybe they were always uniglide)

Was the OLD of the 1980 freehubs 126mm?

This was a little before my time so I'm wondering if tab modifying a 7 speed hyperglide cassette would work with a threaded 12/13 uniglide cog? Or... Would a cog need to be removed to fit freehub width?

Just curious.

Thanks!

John
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Old 08-11-17, 04:09 PM   #11
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Hmmm, yeah, it's a cassette alright but a rather obsolete design. I bought an early '80's Trek 400 that had one of those and the first thing I did was replace the rear wheel with a newer design.
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Old 08-11-17, 04:33 PM   #12
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you can find Uniglide threaded cogs on ebay. For the non-threaded cogs, do as @Bill Kapaun suggested, file or grind a bit off the wider tab. The least expensive way to get cogs is to purchase whole cassettes and take them apart.

Such as:
https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-7-Spe.../dp/B00D9NDZ0W
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Deore.../dp/B00CDPB6DK

Save your original spacers.
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Old 08-11-17, 05:54 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70sSanO View Post
Just a question for the benefit of the OP.

Were the first generation (1980) 5/6 speed Shimano freehubs compatible with the later SIS uniglide? (Maybe they were always uniglide)

Was the OLD of the 1980 freehubs 126mm?

This was a little before my time so I'm wondering if tab modifying a 7 speed hyperglide cassette would work with a threaded 12/13 uniglide cog? Or... Would a cog need to be removed to fit freehub width?

Just curious.

Thanks!

John
If it helps, the 5- and 6-speed freehubs were two different parts -- the 5-speed hubs had a shorter freehub body. The 6-speed hubs were available in a few different OLDs, probably the same hub shell and different axle/spacer arrangements. The Uniglide spline pattern was always the same, except for Dura-Ace, so you should be able to put an SIS cassette on an early hub. And as far as I know, you could put a 7-speed HG cassette on a 6-speed Uniglide hub, as long as you file down the wide spline on the cogs and use a 13T threaded top cog.

http://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?g...geViewsIndex=1

P.S. Loose Screws still has one 13T non-DA threaded cog left: https://www.loosescrews.com/product/...on-black-6-sp/
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Old 08-11-17, 06:47 PM   #14
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ThermionicScott,

Thanks for the info. Great stuff!

John
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Old 08-11-17, 07:39 PM   #15
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Thanks a lot guys for all the info I have just spent 6 hours trying to reload tension spring back - man it was hard I guess I will leave this casette as it is for now, only because of my cyclosis I want to replace most parts with some new old stuff This is my first retro bike apart from Koga Globe Traveller -S and I will be spending next few weeks trying to get to know it better so you will hear from me for sure Thanks again !
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Old 08-11-17, 07:48 PM   #16
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second largest cog is worn badly...

there are a few NOS ones on Ebay, but be prepared for high prices! OUCH!

the second largest cog is worn, mostly from a worn out chain, it appears... there ARE some new separate cogs for sale, and you could probably get just that cog...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-VINTAGE-...Sb9YINXL_7Hn0A

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Old 08-11-17, 08:13 PM   #17
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second largest cog is worn badly...

there are a few NOS ones on Ebay, but be prepared for high prices! OUCH!

the second largest cog is worn, mostly from a worn out chain, it appears... there ARE some new separate cogs for sale, and you could probably get just that cog...

"NOS" VINTAGE SHIMANO 600 DURA ACE UNIGLIDE CASSETTE SPROCKET COG | eBay
Why not just flip it? You must not know UniGlide?
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Old 08-11-17, 11:02 PM   #18
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Bill Kapaun made a good point about reversing/flipping the cogs. My advice is to have a backup cassette... but you should figure out if you want a 13-21 or a different range of gears. Ride the bike and if the gearing isn't right, figure out what ratios are best.

As already stated, you can get a Shimano Hyperglide cassette and file the cog tabs to fit your freehub. After you get the gearing where you want it, buy or build up a Uniglide cassette to match or just keep the Hyperglide and don't look back. It will shift better.

John

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Old 08-12-17, 01:26 PM   #19
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Why not just flip it? You must not know UniGlide?
the OP is wanting to replace any worn out parts...

the cog in question is worn heavily, rounded on the front,not so much on the back of the teeth... probably from a badly worn chain.

your suggestion would have the chain riding on the worn side of the teeth.

my suggestion: Replace the worn cog, and avoid paying high dollars for an entire cassette.

Bill... did you look at the costs of NOS uniglides? OUCHY!

the single NOS cogs are only about 20, including shipping from Europe.

if you figure possible fuel costs, and time, the OP will be ahead of the game to get the single cog shipped to his or her home.

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Old 08-12-17, 01:37 PM   #20
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Can someone please give me a direct auction link to mentioned cog ? Or suitable hub + casette/ freewheel - I am concerned about some strange noices in my rear wheel too. I paid 300 $ for that bike and I can pay as much for the new parts. Considering I AM only really worried about rear hub and casette I can go for some overpriced NOS

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Old 08-12-17, 01:45 PM   #21
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Just go onto eBay and search uniglide cog and uniglide cassette. Depending on the number if teeth and seller, it will run $10-$20. If you are not on eBay and have an old bike, sign up.

John

Edit: Make sure you get cassette cog and not a freewheel cog. Take your cassette off your bike to compare if necessary.
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Old 08-12-17, 06:05 PM   #22
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the OP is wanting to replace any worn out parts...

the cog in question is worn heavily, rounded on the front,not so much on the back of the teeth... probably from a badly worn chain.

your suggestion would have the chain riding on the worn side of the teeth.

my suggestion: Replace the worn cog, and avoid paying high dollars for an entire cassette.

Bill... did you look at the costs of NOS uniglides? OUCHY!

the single NOS cogs are only about 20, including shipping from Europe.

if you figure possible fuel costs, and time, the OP will be ahead of the game to get the single cog shipped to his or her home.
Your hysteria over the "worn" cog is misplaced, then, if the driven side is fine. While I enjoy spending other people's money as much as anyone, why not take the opportunity to save the OP some dough if they don't in fact have any problems?

The first step should always be to try a new chain and see if it skips or not. Only if it skips does the user need to start replacing parts.
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Old 08-12-17, 07:28 PM   #23
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-VINTAGE-...Sb9YINXL_7Hn0A
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Old 08-12-17, 07:31 PM   #24
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Your hysteria over the "worn" cog is misplaced, then, if the driven side is fine. While I enjoy spending other people's money as much as anyone, why not take the opportunity to save the OP some dough if they don't in fact have any problems?

The first step should always be to try a new chain and see if it skips or not. Only if it skips does the user need to start replacing parts.
because he wants to eliminate any worn parts during his rebuild, scott.
second largest cog is visibly worn. if it got "flipped", the wear would be on the torque receiving side, making things worse.

your comment neither helped the OP, or was correct. if i was "hysterical", you'd well know it.
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Old 08-12-17, 08:26 PM   #25
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because he wants to eliminate any worn parts during his rebuild, scott.
second largest cog is visibly worn. if it got "flipped", the wear would be on the torque receiving side, making things worse.

your comment neither helped the OP, or was correct. if i was "hysterical", you'd well know it.
I wasn't the one suggesting flipping any of the cogs, yet. Sometimes newbies think they need to replace everything when they get a project and since UniGlide cogs don't grow on trees anymore, I think there is value to saying "slow down, see if they still work first" to that tendency. Nothing wrong with having replacement parts on hand, though. I do this.

In my other life as an air-cooled Volkswagen guy, there is some wisdom to hanging on to those old German parts even if they are kind of schmutzy and worn, because there's no guarantee you'll be able to find replacement parts that are any better anymore.
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