Iride01 

No, not at all. It's a rainy day here. So I'm stuck in the house with nothing to do but troll the forums. Plus, I much prefer friends that will argue and support their comments, than those that state something and not allow for others to believe anything else. My wife says I'm a grumpy old man.

What...... we have to talk about questions you ask.... durn!

At any rate I got an education because I had to look up to find out what "trekking bars" were. So I learned something, but can't contribute to the answer of this question other than to give you this link. Handlebars for Touring and Commuting
2/3rds of the way down the page there is a slight discussion about brakes. Don't know that it answers your question but it may give you hints.

xenologer

Well if Appearances are what's motivating this, then just buy the expensive shiny adapter you first posted.
because being friction shifting either way, there is no performance difference between using that or any old cheap stem shifters.
You really are just buying Bling with that thing. And a major purpose of Bling, is being able to brag to all your riding buddies how much it $$cost$$. Sooner you come to terms with that and shell out the cash, the happier you will be.

BigFinner

Ha, the jester of the forum I assume?

xenologer

It's funny because its true.

a product designed to adapt outdated shifters, when modern analogous shifting systems exist that achieve the same results cheaper/better.
It exists purely because of vanity and disposable income.



anyway, rather than trekking (butterfly bars?) have you considered mustache bars?
they offer similar hand positions, minus the flat portion at the rear, and look fine with your existing road brake levers mounted on the forward curve. Then you go with some bar-end shifters plugged into the ends of the bars. check google images, that's a common setup. and old suntour friction bar-end shifters should be less expensive than that shiny adapter thing....

bonus, suntour power-ratchet shifters are some of the nicest friction shifters you'll ever feel

Ironfish653

Suntour did make some decent looking stem mounts as well: I have the set I took off my V-GT equipped Bridgestone. They work fine, but they look like hell, and the levers aren't as pretty as these:

fietsbob

the road bar tube diameter is larger than the trekking bar tube diameter , 1.

If you want to use a road brake lever on trekking bars , put them on the front, far side, near the center clamp
on the first curve, which is essentially replicating a Mustache bar set up. .. that way curved lever will fit adequately.

More typically people put a Mountain bike type brake lever on the back, near side, slipping the lever onto the open end.

(I have that and a grip shifter, both made for 7/8" tube, on my trekking bar equipped bikes..


You can put thumb shifters where convenient to reach..








.....

BigFinner

Thanks for this. The upright closer section of the butterfly bars are my preferred hand position so that is why I chose them but thanks for the mustache bars advice. One of my main goals with the shifter levers is to try and keep the originals, not that it is proving the easiest.

cheers

BigFinner

With old road bikes like mine the drop bar and trekking bar stem diameter is actually the same.

Thanks. I had considered this. The only problem is we tend to cycle tour SE Asia a lot. My preferred hand position is the near side of the bars and far to often in Asia I have found that I need my brakes in a "RIGHT NOW" kinda fashion. Been there many times and have yet to figure out if there are actually any traffic rules. Ha! Hence my goal is to see if I can affix the road levers to the near flat section of the bars like someone would with a mtn brake.


Deore thumbies and cantilever mtn brake levers was my first plan. However I am trying to see if I can rather keep a lot of the original equipment on the bike.

fietsbob

>>>wont have sufficient range of motion swing,since the brake lever will curve too close to the bar

so drop that idea as unworkable. <<

separate from the shifter, MTB levers dont cost much ,
many have 2 places to fit the cable end, now, so as to have a V long or cantilever short pull in the same lever
you pick nearer or further from the pivot bolt, as you put them on.

...

BigFinner

Cool, I didn't know that about current mnt levers?

xenologer

before going all out with these non-traditional handlebar and control setups

seeing as how upright was your goal, have you not explored simply putting a riser stem on the existing bars?

WizardOfBoz

In engineering, we sometimes have what we call an overconstrained problem.

1) there is a solution (your original post), but you don't want to spend 150 on that solution
2) there is another solution (post 24), but you want to keep the cool shifter levers, and solution #2 doesn't allow that
3) there are many possible solutions (ebay) but you have the same constraint as solution 2.

I'm pretty sure that finding a solution that looks as cool as the engineered solution your original post, but is way cheaper, is going to take a lot of time to find. Like maybe never. If you ever visit the States, and can have it shipped to a friend there, it's gonna save you time and money. If not, and you have your heart set on keeping those levers, maybe the extra time you get to spend biking with your family is worth the 100 bucks in shipping/customs?

You don't get time with your kids at this age back, not for any amount of money. Just sayin.

And if you're riding, you're burning off calories and get to eat two helpings of mustikkapiiraka.