Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Ultegra BBR60 bottom bracket toast already??

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Ultegra BBR60 bottom bracket toast already??

Old 10-05-17, 02:56 PM
  #1  
PatrickGSR94
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
PatrickGSR94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
Posts: 7,393

Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 674 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Ultegra BBR60 bottom bracket toast already??

Just barely 1 year ago I installed a Tiagra 4700 compact hollowtech crankset and an Ultegra BBR60 outboard bearing bottom bracket on my road bike. Now it seems like I'm getting clicking noises as I'm turning the cranks, especially when out of the saddle, and on both sides. I tried servicing my PD-A530 pedals with fresh grease, and even tried swapping out to M324 pedals. But I still get the clicking when power is applied through the crank arms. The BB and crankset has barely 1,900 miles on it. Surely it hasn't crapped out already, has it?

*edit* I just ordered some 3/32" bearings and will be replacing all of them in the A530 pedals soon. Those pedals have over 11,000 miles on them, and have only been serviced once with fresh grease. Never replaced the bearings before. So I'll see what happens after I do that.
PatrickGSR94 is offline  
Old 10-05-17, 03:10 PM
  #2  
reptilezs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: boston, ma
Posts: 2,896
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
doubt its the bb. 1900 miles is nothing. grease your hanger, check skewer, grease the chainrings
reptilezs is offline  
Old 10-05-17, 03:21 PM
  #3  
Iride01
Senior Member
 
Iride01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 3,818

Bikes: '20 Tarmac Disc Comp '91 Schwinn Paramount '78 Raleigh Competition GS

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1430 Post(s)
Liked 379 Times in 292 Posts
Do you feel the clicking too? If so, then I'd also suspect bearings.

I had an occasional clicking I just found the cause of. It also only made the noise when I was pedaling and I would have sworn the noise was coming from the crank area.

After a few weeks of puzzling on it, I found that it was a metal zipper pull of my saddle bag hitting on the rear brake caliper.
Iride01 is offline  
Old 10-05-17, 03:37 PM
  #4  
squirtdad
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 7,015

Bikes: 85 team Miyata (modern 5800 105) , '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) '82 nishiski,

Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1158 Post(s)
Liked 366 Times in 281 Posts
Loose chainring? I have had clicking from those.
__________________
Looking for more time to ride what I have
squirtdad is offline  
Old 10-05-17, 06:18 PM
  #5  
HillRider
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 32,171

Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1407 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 233 Times in 185 Posts
Were the bottom bracket cups' threads greased or treated with anti-seize and torqued properly when they were installed? Cups installed dry or not tightened sufficiently can both cause clicks.
HillRider is offline  
Old 10-05-17, 06:22 PM
  #6  
davidad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,227
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 57 Times in 52 Posts
I have never replaced the bearings on shimano SPD pedals. Every 5k miles I pull the cartridge and pump in fresh grease. When I install the cart. the old grease is pushed out.


My understanding is that having the frame's BB reamed so that the bearing cups are parallel is important for bearing life with an external BB.

Last edited by davidad; 10-05-17 at 06:28 PM.
davidad is offline  
Old 10-05-17, 07:45 PM
  #7  
PatrickGSR94
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
PatrickGSR94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
Posts: 7,393

Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 674 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Were the bottom bracket cups' threads greased or treated with anti-seize and torqued properly when they were installed? Cups installed dry or not tightened sufficiently can both cause clicks.
It came with anti-seize already on it. I have a wrench to fit the BB cups, not the big socket, so I couldn't really torque it exactly.
PatrickGSR94 is offline  
Old 10-05-17, 09:36 PM
  #8  
PatrickGSR94
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
PatrickGSR94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
Posts: 7,393

Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 674 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Originally Posted by davidad View Post
I have never replaced the bearings on shimano SPD pedals. Every 5k miles I pull the cartridge and pump in fresh grease. When I install the cart. the old grease is pushed out.


My understanding is that having the frame's BB reamed so that the bearing cups are parallel is important for bearing life with an external BB.
I'm planning on tearing this bike down completely to bare frame at some point this winter for a well deserved deep cleaning (over 13,000 miles on bike and has never had a complete tear down), so I may try to take the frame to my LBS to get the BB shell faced, just for good measure.
PatrickGSR94 is offline  
Old 10-06-17, 04:05 AM
  #9  
dsaul
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 1,552
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 451 Post(s)
Liked 201 Times in 151 Posts
Hollowtech bottom brackets are susceptible to premature failure from too much bearing preload. If there was too much preload(anything more than necessary to remove side play) the bottom bracket will die an early death.
dsaul is offline  
Old 10-06-17, 06:32 AM
  #10  
HillRider
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 32,171

Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1407 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 233 Times in 185 Posts
Originally Posted by dsaul View Post
Hollowtech bottom brackets are susceptible to premature failure from too much bearing preload. If there was too much preload(anything more than necessary to remove side play) the bottom bracket will die an early death.
+1 The plastic preload bolt in the nds crank arm and and the "finger tight" tool (TL-FC16) used to tighten it are designed to limit the preload to about 10 inch-pounds.
HillRider is offline  
Old 10-06-17, 07:21 AM
  #11  
PatrickGSR94
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
PatrickGSR94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
Posts: 7,393

Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 674 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Originally Posted by dsaul View Post
Hollowtech bottom brackets are susceptible to premature failure from too much bearing preload. If there was too much preload(anything more than necessary to remove side play) the bottom bracket will die an early death.
Perhaps better to just spend $15 on a new one, then? I remember using the little plastic tool on the NDS crank arm, and I'm pretty sure I didn't do it up crazy tight or anything. But who knows maybe I did.
PatrickGSR94 is offline  
Old 10-06-17, 11:34 AM
  #12  
redlude97
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,656
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1924 Post(s)
Liked 177 Times in 129 Posts
it takes 5 mins to pull the crank and feel the bearings. That will usually indicate if they need replacing
redlude97 is offline  
Old 10-12-17, 08:27 AM
  #13  
PatrickGSR94
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
PatrickGSR94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
Posts: 7,393

Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 674 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Alright so I finally got in my order of 200 3/32" ball bearings (wow they fit into a tiny little baggie!). I ordered enough to be able to service my A530 pedals as well as my M324 pedals later. A530's take 48 bearings total, and the M324's take a whopping 62 bearings total!

So even though I had put in fresh grease just a couple of weeks ago, I pulled the A530 pedals back apart and cleaned them all out, removed the old bearings and put in the new (proper number this time, I had lost 2 of them when I had them apart last time), and applied fresh new waterproof grease. Adjusted the cone and locknut for smooth operation and put them all back together.

This morning I rode 15 miles to work, and so far everything feels NICE AND QUIET! No clicking that I could detect. So it must have been the pedals, not the BB.

But that must also mean that the M324 pedals need service, and those don't have nearly as many miles as my A530 pedals do. Weird.
PatrickGSR94 is offline  
Old 10-12-17, 10:58 AM
  #14  
Iride01
Senior Member
 
Iride01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 3,818

Bikes: '20 Tarmac Disc Comp '91 Schwinn Paramount '78 Raleigh Competition GS

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1430 Post(s)
Liked 379 Times in 292 Posts
Hey... Thanks for letting us know your results. So many people never return to tell of the end result. Leaves all of us hanging on the edge of our seats with anticipation............... well maybe I'm over doing it....... but it certainly is nice to know how things came out.

I never considered or yet needed to rebuild my modern clipless pedals. Good to know that I can.
Iride01 is offline  
Old 10-12-17, 09:34 PM
  #15  
PatrickGSR94
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
PatrickGSR94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
Posts: 7,393

Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 674 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 8 Posts
haha once I learned how to do it, and since I have the bearings on-hand, it's almost therapeutic working on pedals, knowing that I can make pedals like new again for relatively little to no cost. I've overhauled 3 different sets of pedals now, including one set that I had previously tossed aside as crap, but brought them back up, put in new bearings, adjusted the bearing tension and now they work great!
PatrickGSR94 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Payton1221
General Cycling Discussion
17
08-31-18 08:02 AM
FlatFender
Bicycle Mechanics
6
11-27-16 09:09 PM
tsgraham
Recumbent
17
09-08-16 08:23 PM
motobecane69
Bicycle Mechanics
7
08-23-11 05:20 PM
CliftonGK1
Bicycle Mechanics
3
06-24-10 03:26 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.