I see some signs of cables rubbing the bare metal of my Litespeed MTB conversion with bare cables. The frame definitely isn't too tall on that one, but still gets cable rub.

The old Colnago had full length cable housing with vintage Campy cable guides. Originally it was configured with the guides to the left side, but I've twisted them with the guides now down the center.

When shifted to the side, the cable housing gave moderate protection from pants rub on the left side. When twisted to the top, the cable housing seems to lightly abrade the paint down the top of the top tube.

If I had cable stops installed, I might consider adding a loose fitting cable liner sheath the length of the cable between stops. It might give some minimal protection for the frame.

Anyway, as mentioned above, I have a habit of sitting on the tube, so I don't think standover height has much impact on how the cables or cable housing rubs the paint.

May I ask what size frame you are running on your hybrid and road bike? I'm about your size and inseam.

1989 Centurion Ironman
Seat tube (center to center, bottom bracket to top tube): 22.5"/57cm, approx
Top tube, head tube to seat tube: 23"
Bottom bracket height: 9.5"

1993 Univega Via Carisma
Seat tube: 22.5"/57cm
Top tube: 23.5"
Bottom bracket height: 9.75" (influenced by the larger tire)

My measurements don't exactly match the specifications from Univega and Centurion. I'm not sure how they measured the frames. So technically my Ironman is a 56cm or 58cm, per Centurion specs. I'd probably be satisfied with most horizontal top tube bikes in that range of 56-58cm.

I've been pondering an old style rigid fork/frame mountain bike and would probably go 54-56cm, assuming 26" wheels/tires, to ensure plenty of crotchal clearance in case of emergency bailout. These things show up often on craiglist and other used sites for cheap -- Treks, Specialized 'hoppers, Univegas, etc. Another local rider my height, build, etc., has a couple of those older MTBs and he seems to favor a slightly smaller frame than with his road bikes.

Thanks for the info! I'm trying to decide between 56 or 58 cm.

This is off topic but... you don't need to go for a full length cable housing. You can get little rubber donuts that slide along the cable and keep it off the frame. Two or three of these and you're right. My lbs gave me my last set when I bought some cables but you might have to ask for them.

Now back to our regular programming... ;)

Don't listen to squeaky above!!!!!!!!
 

It is very important!

Trust me, standover clearance is mandatory.

Regards,
Crankster

I've got a bike fit coming up next weekend so I'll take all the points mentioned on board.

No doubt! Looking at your BB height I estimate a BB "drop" (not influenced by tires) of 10cm. A drop of 7cm and a Bb height of around 10.75" is vastly more likely what you have. I suggest re measuring from the bike's other side. Seriously, change your perspective when measuring the second time. Andy.

Nearly everyone will tell you that standover is unimportant. They are wrong because most of them have never had to deal with it. Frankly, a 52cm road bike for someone 5'6" is a bit on the tall side. A 50cm would be a better fit.

Frame fit isn't just pick one dimension...usually top tube length...and say that's the size bike you need. All of the dimensions work together. Standover is just as important as top tube length which is just as important as the seat tube (or "size") of the frame. A bike that has too tall a standover likely is too large and has too long a top tube for your size. It all works together. In all honesty, the differences between frame dimensions for a certain "size" of bike aren't all that different from model to model or even manufacturer to manufacturer.

For all those who say that "standover isn't important", do an experiment. Go find a bike that is 2 sizes too big and go for a ride. Make sure you stop the bike at some point and "just lean it over". It's not comfortable and not as easy as you think it is.

My wife has struggled with finding bike frames in the proper size for 40 years. It took me a long time to convince her that the proper sized bike was actually more comfortable. It took a long time for manufacturers to even make a bike in her size. Even now they are few and far between. "Just lean it over" doesn't cut it.

Right you are. That's what I get for measuring on the carpet while I'm half asleep. And I measured from the bottom of the BB shell, rather than the center.

This has not been my experience with vintage bikes. I have seen a lot of variation within a single manufacturer, model to model, and even same model but different year.

It is the first bit of geometry that I look at, as I will not countenance a bike that would give me grief in an emergency stop.


As someone who often finds he has to carefully and slowly move around pedestrians, coming to an annoying stop is a frequent occurrence.


Now obviously I am also lucky that I don't have crazy long or crazy short proportions, so finding a bike with the standover I want/need will almost always also give me the effective top tube length I like.

As someone with very short legs for my height who has often had minimal (or none) standover on some bikes in the past, I have found it unimportant in either road or mountain biking.

Realistically, I am rarely ever having to stand flat footed over the top tube.

I am only six foot tall with a 32" pant inseam. I ride a 66cm bike that has a HIGH bottom bracket and oversized (from stock) tires. It's a skyscraper. I can't stand over the bike with two feet on the ground. I must lean it over when I stop. It doesn't bother me at all. It's easy and I don't even think about it. I just stick my left foot out and allow the bike to fall over to the left. Effortless, really. No drama.

The long top tube and head tube help me achieve the comfortable riding position that I prefer.

I'm going to disagree with the majority consensus here. I live on my bike and last April while on a tour, my best friend was stolen. I was in a non-biking city and region, so my choices for replacement (used) were minimal. The bike that had been kidnapped was too small for me and it's replacement is too big. Trying to lift my leg over the top bar is cumbersome. The number of times I've nearly fallen because I can't get one or both feet down at the last second is too many. It hasn't screwed up my back, but it has made it worse. Once I'm on the bike, no problem, but yes size does matter. None of these problems I had with the too-small bike.

I wasn't aware that there was a consensus here, let alone a majority. :p

Yeah, I'm picking up a 50/50 vibe.

Old thread but I wanted to add I think you should be able to clear your TT, maybe you just clear or have very minimal clearance but if you have negative SOH than I personally think that's a non starter. Yes clearance doesn't determine overall fit and you don't need to clear your TT to pedal, but for quick mounting and dismounting, safety, and even aesthetics I think clearing a TT matters. If you were using a bike on a static trainer yeah SOH doesn't matter. I am also 5'5" so I know the pain of not being able to find a frame I can clear. I will say bike sizing for the most part has gotten so much better over the past 5 years or so with more compact frames with sloping TTs.

They are like eyeballs: Two are a luxury, one a necessity

Sort of shocked at the number of people claiming standover height is unimportant. But it probably explains the number of improperly sized bikes that show up here!

Its a personal choice. I have some clearance on all my frames, 5' 11" with 32 in seam . The 61 is very comfortable when riding and with shoes on, it touches. The 56 is way to short only because I want to use a matching Campagnolo 2 bolt post The only way I can get there is with a Brooks Pro where the saddle top to rain is likely the max for it type of saddle design.
61
https://live.staticflickr.com/5641/2...70d7298_4k.jpg2010 Langster Steel 61cm on Flickr

56
https://live.staticflickr.com/7327/1...e4b1646_4k.jpg1983 Colnago Superissimo

The best for me is 59
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...884a808_5k.jpgP1030581 on Flickr

I have no idea what the stand-over height is for any of them. They all have 700 wheel sets.

The MTB is a 21" because it was the largest available at the time.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...884a808_5k.jpgP1030581 on Flickr


When it comes to tandems, you really need it to clear to use the top tube to steady the bike along with the handlebars when the stocker gets on.

Most definitely. Unfortunately for a lot of people, they make the wrong choice.

Why resurrect a dead thread from almost six years ago when there are several threads on stand over height that were made this year.

Fitting Your Bike

Top of the list!
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If I can have one foot on the ground while not having my groin hitting the top tube I am fine. I have no need to have both feet on the ground and be able to straddle the bike. The bike frames meant for women are going to be closer in their frame geometery and worth checking out.