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Damaged hub from destructive freewheel removal process.

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Damaged hub from destructive freewheel removal process.

Old 10-11-17, 05:04 PM
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Damaged hub from destructive freewheel removal process.

I have an aluminium, high flange, Suzue rear hub that had no spokes on, and a very stuck freewheel. During the destructive freewheel removal process, I damaged the hub freewheel threads by accidentally cutting down to far.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4460/3...0f24923c_b.jpg

No need to call me an idiot. I already feel like one.

Before the hub turns into wall decor (very nice wall decor at that), I wanted to ask you guys if I would still be able to use the hub.

#1 "Sure! Don't worry about it!"

#2 "Well... I'd say no."

Or #3 "You have got to be kidding me."

I'm betting my money on #3.

Thanks!
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Old 10-11-17, 05:06 PM
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#4 - Build a wheel for someone you don't like.
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Old 10-11-17, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
#4 - Build a wheel for someone you don't like.
Thanks man. You just made me laugh!
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Old 10-11-17, 05:41 PM
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But seriously, is it usable?
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Old 10-11-17, 05:56 PM
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Hard to tell how deep that is or assess it from the pic. But I'd not fear using it for myself. I wouldn't sell it to someone though unless they knew about it.

You're not jumping stumps with it are you?
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Old 10-11-17, 06:00 PM
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Ouch!!!! I think I'd pass.
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Old 10-11-17, 06:04 PM
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Depends on how deep you cut it. The threads aren't an issue, so No.1 on that score. But if you cut deeply enough into the body it might crack. OTOH - the freewheel itself is going to provide support, so you have lots going for you.

In your shoes, I'd go ahead and build the new wheel.
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Old 10-11-17, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Iride01
Hard to tell how deep that is or assess it from the pic. But I'd not fear using it for myself. I wouldn't sell it to someone though unless they knew about it.

You're not jumping stumps with it are you?
Yea, the shadow makes it look worse than it is.

As for riding? I'd probably build it up for a single speed. So no, basic road riding.
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Old 10-11-17, 06:07 PM
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I'd use it. The freewheel body, most likely made of steel, will provide some extra strength to the threaded area along with a steel bearing race on the inside. Just check it every so often for cracks developing.
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Old 10-11-17, 06:19 PM
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I'd say that as long as you are careful to avoid groove-related cross-threading, I think it will be fine. The damage does not look structural, but even if you have a slight crack, the freewheel body will surround and support. This is the same thing my dentist described when he sold me a crown to replace one of my molar fillings - "surround and support"

BTW, was your removal effort done on the complete wheel or just the unspoked hub?
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Old 10-11-17, 06:29 PM
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I'd cuss myself and use it.
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Old 10-11-17, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoopdriver
I'd say that as long as you are careful to avoid groove-related cross-threading, I think it will be fine. The damage does not look structural, but even if you have a slight crack, the freewheel body will surround and support. This is the same thing my dentist described when he sold me a crown to replace one of my molar fillings - "surround and support"

BTW, was your removal effort done on the complete wheel or just the unspoked hub?
Just the unspoked hub.

Last edited by Coasterbrakefan; 10-11-17 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 10-11-17, 06:56 PM
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By lining up a my digital caliber next to the hub where it was cut, I can see a rough distance of .7mm is cut all the way thru starting at the end of the hub. The full length of the cut is around 7.6mm.
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Old 10-11-17, 07:03 PM
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One more thing, I'm not planning on building up this wheel any time soon. Is there anything that I can fill the cut in with (and then retap the threads) that would reinstate (to a certain extent) the integrity of the hub?
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Old 10-11-17, 07:06 PM
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JB Weld and a triangular file would do it.
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Old 10-11-17, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Coasterbrakefan
One more thing, I'm not planning on building up this wheel any time soon. Is there anything that I can fill the cut in with (and then retap the threads) that would reinstate (to a certain extent) the integrity of the hub?
There a number of epoxy/metal products you could use, and it might help. But the hub is trapped between the freewheel and bearing and so has no place to go.

If you do opt to use a filler, keep it sub flush, so you don't have to reproduce the threads, adding an entirely new level of complexity to the job.

BTW - how hard you work to salvage it, if you do, is really a question of economics. It's a used hub, and not all that rare, so see what buying one would cost, and let that temper your efforts. As I said earlier, I'd just built it. However, if I thought it needed more than a few minutes work to save, I'd use it as a paperweight.
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Old 10-11-17, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
JB Weld and a triangular file would do it.
K, thanks! I might even have some already.

Last edited by Coasterbrakefan; 10-11-17 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 10-11-17, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
There a number of epoxy/metal products you could use, and it might help. But the hub is trapped between the freewheel and bearing and so has no place to go.

If you do opt to use a filler, keep it sub flush, so you don't have to reproduce the threads, adding an entirely new level of complexity to the job.

BTW - how hard you work to salvage it, if you do, is really a question of economics. It's a used hub, and not all that rare, so see what buying one would cost, and let that temper your efforts. As I said earlier, I'd just built it. However, if I thought it needed more than a few minutes work to save, I'd use it as a paperweight.
Lots of times I do things that aren't economic. But I just like to fix things even when it's down right stupid to do so.
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Old 10-11-17, 07:48 PM
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Honestly, I would take that hub and keep it on my desk as an object lesson about why you should never cut spokes away before you remove a freewheel from a hub. It is quite easy to remove a freewheel destructively if the spokes and rim are intact. A bare hub with a tightened freewheel on it is very hard to deal with without damaging the hub. Yours is proof of that
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Old 10-11-17, 08:10 PM
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Another option instead of metal epoxy would be to use a torch and some aluminium soldering rods. Would likely require tapping.
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Old 10-11-17, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoopdriver
This is the same thing my dentist described when he sold me a crown to replace one of my molar fillings - "surround and support"
This was probably good advice. I see many teeth that need my services (root canal treatment) because they did not get adequate support of a cracked tooth.
(Sorry for the slight hijack!)
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Old 10-11-17, 09:09 PM
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I'd use it as is, doubt it will cause any problems. No need to fill the cut IMO, it's irrelevant in respect to the remaining threads. The cut is far from the cup and cone, and doesn't affect them.
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Old 10-11-17, 09:33 PM
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So I think I've settled on using the hub, and maybe applying some metal epoxy. Thanks all so much for your replies!

Cheers.
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Old 10-12-17, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Coasterbrakefan
So I think I've settled on using the hub, and maybe applying some metal epoxy. Thanks all so much for your replies!

Cheers.
I would rethink this. It isn't necessary.
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Old 10-12-17, 02:22 AM
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I would use it as is.
I'm still trying to figure out how you got the spokes out with the freewheel on the hub.
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