Melting grease for my chain?
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Melting grease for my chain?
I've heard of this option before, and thought it was a good idea. Problem is is that I'm not sure how to melt grease. Double boiler? Also, some greases don't melt (tri-flow). What grease would work best for this process?
Last edited by Coasterbrakefan; 10-26-17 at 06:34 AM.
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...a brand new KMC chain that will work on 6-8 speed clusters costs about ten dollars online.
It comes pre-lubricated with some stuff that will probably go 1,000 miles or so. It's pressure applied.
The biggest issue with trying to get grease to work is that it's very difficult to get it where it needs to be, inside the chain at the rollers.
As stated above, the stuff that remains on the outside not only won't help, it will create quite a mess.
...a brand new KMC chain that will work on 6-8 speed clusters costs about ten dollars online.
It comes pre-lubricated with some stuff that will probably go 1,000 miles or so. It's pressure applied.
The biggest issue with trying to get grease to work is that it's very difficult to get it where it needs to be, inside the chain at the rollers.
As stated above, the stuff that remains on the outside not only won't help, it will create quite a mess.
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Common story has the Tour de France wrenches coating their rider's chains with grease for the really nasty stages, getting light weight lube to maintain for 100+ miles of heavy rain and road grit is hard. But then after the stage the chains get replaced... Andy.
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There are all kinds of gimmicks for lubing your chain. Just use what appeals to you. IMO, none make any big difference on chain life. If you ride in the wet or wash your bike with a water hose, you might need to take some extra care.
Chains are cheap. Why spend a lot of money and time worrying about a 12 to 35 dollar item. About all I worry about on mine is to wipe the grime off the outside to keep from getting it on my right leg.
Chains are cheap. Why spend a lot of money and time worrying about a 12 to 35 dollar item. About all I worry about on mine is to wipe the grime off the outside to keep from getting it on my right leg.
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Common story has the Tour de France wrenches coating their rider's chains with grease for the really nasty stages, getting light weight lube to maintain for 100+ miles of heavy rain and road grit is hard. But then after the stage the chains get replaced... Andy.
#13
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*https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Putoline-Dx...d=121884077581
I have such a tin (from Castrol). Cant really recommend it, unless you have nothing better to do ;-)
I happen to use a mc spray lube. It has a solvent carrier that gets the lube into the chain and then evaporates. It dries to a dry(ish) grease that does not pick up much dirt. I favour that over oil.
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Why, just why? there are a ton of good bike specific chain lubes available for any number of needs and preferences.
The cost is minimal, why bother with the mess, risk of melting a petroleum product?
What benefit?
I just don't get the alternate lube threads..... rant over
The cost is minimal, why bother with the mess, risk of melting a petroleum product?
What benefit?
I just don't get the alternate lube threads..... rant over
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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Thanks for all the insightful information everyone!
All I know is that I read about it somewhere awhile back and thought I'd ask.
Wet or dry, roads are filthy and my chain gets messy fast.
And I'm no noob when it comes to oiling my chain BTW.
But anyways... I'm probably making a big deal out of something everyone just learns to except.
All I know is that I read about it somewhere awhile back and thought I'd ask.
Wet or dry, roads are filthy and my chain gets messy fast.
And I'm no noob when it comes to oiling my chain BTW.
But anyways... I'm probably making a big deal out of something everyone just learns to except.
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If you didn't like their responses, this will really chap yer hide! It's not a good idea for a number of reasons. First, bearing "grease" doesn't have a low melting point. It's meant to stay in place even up to some very high temperatures...like around 400°F. For point of reference, deep friers are typically run at 375°F. Extremely hot and dangerous.
And that's not the melting point but the point where the lubricant starts to fail. The melting point is probably much higher.
Second, most modern "greases" are like bacon grease or other edible greases or even like axle greases of 30 or 40 years ago. They are plastics and, as such, probably don't "melt" in the traditional sense. If you heated a modern polyurethane "grease" to try to "melt" it, it would either degrade and/or polymerized and harden...if you could even find something to get the temperature high enough.
On a side note: if you did get the grease hot enough to melt, it probably isn't that flammable. Cars don't often catch fire from grease melting and igniting.
If you do consider an edible grease...don't! Edible greases are reactive. They have to be because they have to break down in an animal's gut or they are of no use. They oxidize quickly. They decay rather quickly. They have low melting points so they won't stick on parts that get even just "warm".
Then don't use a lubricant that serves as a place for stuff to stick. Any oil you use...or grease for that matter...serves as an adhesive for all that gunk from the road to stick to. Want a clean chain, use a clean lubricant. This picture was taken in the depth of winter and the chain had been cleaned exactly once...when I installed it.
IMG_1155 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
I can't say exactly how much mileage the chain had on it but it was not new. I use White Lightning. I don't even use it that excessively. I lube my chains about every 600 miles and the chains last about the same as everyone else...about 3000 to 4000 miles.
And that's not the melting point but the point where the lubricant starts to fail. The melting point is probably much higher.
Second, most modern "greases" are like bacon grease or other edible greases or even like axle greases of 30 or 40 years ago. They are plastics and, as such, probably don't "melt" in the traditional sense. If you heated a modern polyurethane "grease" to try to "melt" it, it would either degrade and/or polymerized and harden...if you could even find something to get the temperature high enough.
On a side note: if you did get the grease hot enough to melt, it probably isn't that flammable. Cars don't often catch fire from grease melting and igniting.
If you do consider an edible grease...don't! Edible greases are reactive. They have to be because they have to break down in an animal's gut or they are of no use. They oxidize quickly. They decay rather quickly. They have low melting points so they won't stick on parts that get even just "warm".
Then don't use a lubricant that serves as a place for stuff to stick. Any oil you use...or grease for that matter...serves as an adhesive for all that gunk from the road to stick to. Want a clean chain, use a clean lubricant. This picture was taken in the depth of winter and the chain had been cleaned exactly once...when I installed it.
IMG_1155 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
I can't say exactly how much mileage the chain had on it but it was not new. I use White Lightning. I don't even use it that excessively. I lube my chains about every 600 miles and the chains last about the same as everyone else...about 3000 to 4000 miles.
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I sorta tried it
Thanks for all the insightful information everyone!
All I know is that I read about it somewhere awhile back and thought I'd ask.
Wet or dry, roads are filthy and my chain gets messy fast.
And I'm no noob when it comes to oiling my chain BTW.
But anyways... I'm probably making a big deal out of something everyone just learns to except.
All I know is that I read about it somewhere awhile back and thought I'd ask.
Wet or dry, roads are filthy and my chain gets messy fast.
And I'm no noob when it comes to oiling my chain BTW.
But anyways... I'm probably making a big deal out of something everyone just learns to except.
#20
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My lbs bloke, when asked what he uses, replied that he doesn't do anything to his chain... and then he sold me a bottle of chain lube. You say you're an experienced chain luberator, well, just keep doing what feels right to you. For my money, anything that requires a lot of stuffing about probably isn't worth the effort and in this case, melting grease onto your chain just seems wrong for all sorts of reasons.
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I've used paraffin wax in a double boiler before, wax lubricates, stays where it needs to stay, inside the chain, flakes off everywhere else so it doesn't attract dirt. So it keeps the chain from wearing by both lubricating the chain, and keeping dirt out of the chain rollers. It does a good job, but may be a bit more trouble than just cleaning the chain regularly and using a good lube on it.
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Ditto the paraffin. I haven't heard of paraffin being used on a chain for over fifty years, so I think it's an obsolete technique. I think the risk is too great for the benefit, if any.
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I've used paraffin wax in a double boiler before, wax lubricates, stays where it needs to stay, inside the chain, flakes off everywhere else so it doesn't attract dirt. So it keeps the chain from wearing by both lubricating the chain, and keeping dirt out of the chain rollers. It does a good job, but may be a bit more trouble than just cleaning the chain regularly and using a good lube on it.
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Melting waxes and greases isn't all that easy and has hazards associated with doing so. Products like wax based lubricants like White Lightning use a solvent to "melt" the wax, deposit it and then evaporate leaving you with the same effect without all the hassle.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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And there is spray on grease, if you still want to go that way it thickens after it is sprayed on.