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Clamping over chromed steer tube

Old 11-24-17, 02:56 PM
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Clamping over chromed steer tube

if i have a fully chromed threaded fork that i'm gonna use as threadless (it has extra length, not clamping over the threads) is it gonna work OK to clamp a threadless stem over the chrome? should i maybe sand it with fine grit or someething to give it a little grip? logically i feel like it should clamp fine but my brain can't stop thinking about it slipping around on that chrome

Last edited by bike_galpal; 11-25-17 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 11-24-17, 04:45 PM
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don't think... find out.

put the thing together and give a good hard twist.... report what happens.

polished chrome is just a series of very fine scratches, btw.....
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Old 11-24-17, 04:48 PM
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Why not just try it and see?

I think you may be right about the chrome being slippery. And no doubt you'll be using a shim, which probably won't help. But IMO there's a good chance it won't slip, so you should try it.

Carbon assembly paste is probably the go if it does slip.
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Old 11-24-17, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bike_galpal View Post
if i have a fully chromed threaded fork that i'm gonna use as threaded (it has extra length, not clamping over the threads)
I take it you are going to use it as threadless with a suitable headset and stem. I expect the chrome will be a non-issue and. as long as you don't have any of the threaded section under the stem it should be fine.
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Old 11-24-17, 04:55 PM
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Could use carborundum grit (not garnet grit, that's for wood) 'sand' paper , if you choose...

[ may, not should ] coarse, 100 grit, or rougher, not higher number .. smoother..
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Old 11-25-17, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bike_galpal View Post
if i have a fully chromed threaded fork that i'm gonna use as threaded (it has extra length, not clamping over the threads) is it gonna work OK to clamp a threadless stem over the chrome? should i maybe sand it with fine grit or someething to give it a little grip? logically i feel like it should clamp fine but my brain can't stop thinking about it slipping around on that chrome
How long is this fork anyway?

Unless you have a fork that was intended for a real big frame that you are planning to use on a real small frame it isn't going to work anyway.
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Old 11-25-17, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bike_galpal View Post
if i have a fully chromed threaded fork that i'm gonna use as threaded
Fix that so other readers won't scratch their heads trying to understand what you are attempting to say. Like I did.
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Old 11-25-17, 01:13 PM
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Here's one I put together.

...it works fine with no prep on the chrome.
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Old 11-25-17, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...it works fine with no prep on the chrome.
I'm confused here. Aren't the threads at the top? Or did you cut them off?
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Old 11-25-17, 04:33 PM
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Problem solvers locking and adjustable spacers work, but they are made for 9/8" steerers, not 1"

you could use a shim sleeves but they'd have to be separate rings.
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Old 11-25-17, 04:34 PM
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yeah i meant to say "threadless" sorry lol

Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
How long is this fork anyway?

Unless you have a fork that was intended for a real big frame that you are planning to use on a real small frame it isn't going to work anyway.
you're right, i needed 7 inches and it has about 9 but yeah the thread still goes down below the headtube i wish there was a better way to convert to threadless
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Old 11-25-17, 04:38 PM
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i was thinking, if you had something like a 1" to 1 1/8th" shim but with threads on the inside... would that make it safe to clamp over the threads? i don't really understand the way the stress points work with threaded stems....

especially for example if you were to have like 2 or 3 inches of threads and a quill that's less than 3 inches. would that make it unsafe by putting stress on the threads?
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Old 11-25-17, 04:40 PM
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BBB BHP 20 .. wiggle.com | BBB BHP-20/21 Stem Extender | Oversize Stems
model 20 is 22.2, the 21 is 25.4.

I have been using one for 9 years , as a stem raiser on my threadless , cut too short before I bought it bike.. fork

you have to import it from places like wiggle.

the clever bit is the center bolt it has a hex to tighten the wedge, that hex is internally threaded to set the threadless headset pre-load..





....

Last edited by fietsbob; 11-26-17 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 11-25-17, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bike_galpal View Post
yeah i meant to say "threadless" sorry lol



you're right, i needed 7 inches and it has about 9 but yeah the thread still goes down below the headtube i wish there was a better way to convert to threadless
If the threadless stem is still being clamped on a significant section of the threaded part of the steerer, it's not safe.
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Old 11-25-17, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bike_galpal View Post

especially for example if you were to have like 2 or 3 inches of threads and a quill that's less than 3 inches. would that make it unsafe by putting stress on the threads?
Yes. The quill needs to be long enough to position the wedge below ALL the threads.

Look closely at the threaded area. A lot of material has been removed.
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Old 11-25-17, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
I'm confused here. Aren't the threads at the top? Or did you cut them off?
...this was a brand new 1 1/8" fork that came with the frame. It had never been threaded, nor did I do so.

Just an example of a threadless stem directly mounted to a chromed fork tube (and a pretty shiny one at that) where no prep or magical non slip preparation rituals were used. It's been working fine for four or five years like that.

I had assumed that was the question being asked.
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Old 11-25-17, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bike_galpal View Post
i was thinking, if you had something like a 1" to 1 1/8th" shim but with threads on the inside... would that make it safe to clamp over the threads? i don't really understand the way the stress points work with threaded stems....

especially for example if you were to have like 2 or 3 inches of threads and a quill that's less than 3 inches. would that make it unsafe by putting stress on the threads?
...the stuff inside the head tube (the portion of the steerer above and below the headset races) does get some stress as you bounce along. But generally speaking, one attempts when threading a fork to thread it only far enough to give yourself some room to mount and adjust the threaded parts of the upper headset.

A threadless stem clamped on the threaded portion of a steerer up above and outside of the headset race has a whole different set of stresses applied to a section of tubing that is otherwise unsupported, and has had a number of stress riser points cut into the steerer tube by threading it. I've not tired it personally, but think you might be able to get away with a little bit of threading remaining on the steerer, as long as you keep it above the part of the stem where the upper bolts compress it onto the stem. The stresses are less there, and even if the steerer cracks there, youi ought still to have full attachment of the stem to steerer.

Regardless, it's poor practice mechanics. As such it should be avoided. There's enough bad kludging going on in the world that we probably ought not to contribute additional questionable kludging. Good kludging is something else again....and can often be a thing of bizarre beauty.
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Old 11-25-17, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...this was a brand new 1 1/8" fork that came with the frame. It had never been threaded, nor did I do so.

Just an example of a threadless stem directly mounted to a chromed fork tube (and a pretty shiny one at that) where no prep or magical non slip preparation rituals were used. It's been working fine for four or five years like that.

I had assumed that was the question being asked.
OK. I assumed it was a threaded steerer as that is what OP was asking about. Question answered.

A little surprised that there is plenty of grip on the chrome though. All good. All about the tolerances.
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Old 11-26-17, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
There's enough bad kludging going on in the world that we probably ought not to contribute additional questionable kludging. Good kludging is something else again....and can often be a thing of bizarre beauty.
yes, i mostly understood what not to do already.

i will definitely stick to my relatively good kludges. which makes me think, do we have a "kludges" thread?

and thank you for the photo, it does answer my original question!!
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Old 11-26-17, 06:46 AM
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How did you adjust the headset preload?
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Old 11-26-17, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
How did you adjust the headset preload?
...I custom cut a piece of PVC the right size to use in preloading instead of spacers.
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Old 11-26-17, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...I custom cut a piece of PVC the right size to use in preloading instead of spacers.
i thought about that and just kind of assumed you stacked up a bunch of stems or something
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Old 11-26-17, 04:33 PM
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My use of a BBB BHP 21 was not really a kludge.. it is well designed in NL, and made in the bike industry hub of ROC.

headset preload is still the top of the steerer over the stem ,

when I got the bike the fork steerer was only long enough for the stem and a couple 10mm spacers,
now it has 2 stems and 60mm of spacer.
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Old 11-27-17, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bike_galpal View Post
i was thinking, if you had something like a 1" to 1 1/8th" shim but with threads on the inside... would that make it safe to clamp over the threads? i don't really understand the way the stress points work with threaded stems....

especially for example if you were to have like 2 or 3 inches of threads and a quill that's less than 3 inches. would that make it unsafe by putting stress on the threads?
I just stumbled onto this in the C&V forum and thought it was the perfect way to answer your question. This is what happens when the wedge aint deep enough.





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Old 11-28-17, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
My use of a BBB BHP 21 was not really a kludge.. it is well designed in NL, and made in the bike industry hub of ROC.

headset preload is still the top of the steerer over the stem ,

when I got the bike the fork steerer was only long enough for the stem and a couple 10mm spacers,
now it has 2 stems and 60mm of spacer.
Bumping 70 now I like the bars higher and have used these on two bikes for 3 or 4 years w/o issue.
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