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Shifting Problem

Old 12-04-17, 12:51 PM
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swiftycoop
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Shifting Problem

Today while on a ride I have developed a shifting issue when going from 3 back to 2. I can shift up and down from 3 to 7 without a problem, everything is relatively smooth and non-clunky. But, if I try to shift from 3 back to 2 there is a clunking sound and the chain misses the second gear sprocket and goes in between gear 1 and gear 2 sprockets. It only does this under load....if I lift the rear wheel off the ground and shift 3 to 2 and back to 3 then it shifts fine every time. My bike is a 2 month old Electra Cruiser 7D. Any help appreciated.
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Old 12-04-17, 12:56 PM
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With a new bike the cables stretch a little. Use the adjustment screw on the Der. to compensate.
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Old 12-04-17, 12:58 PM
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Check the derailleur hanger alignment. That doesn't have to be off very far to screw up your shifting like you described. Shops have a badge for checking hanger alignment. That's about a $15.00 service.
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Old 12-04-17, 01:01 PM
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and if the cable is dragging.

when are you demanding it shift, not under power ..?
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Old 12-04-17, 01:14 PM
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Thanks folks, I'll see if I can tweek things.
BTW, when it miss-shifts I am in the process of gearing down for a hill, so I'm pushing hard as I shift.
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Old 12-06-17, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by swiftycoop View Post
Thanks folks, I'll see if I can tweek things.
BTW, when it miss-shifts I am in the process of gearing down for a hill, so I'm pushing hard as I shift.
Need to shift earlier, before you are pushing hard. Pushing hard while shifting puts a lot of strain on drivetrain.
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Old 12-06-17, 02:40 PM
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I've never had a chain get wedged between the cogs. Could it be that your chain is too narrow? I know you said it's only two months old but possibly someone accidentally installed a chain for an 11 speed cassette.

But until recently, I've only ridden bikes with 7 speed or less freewheels. So maybe that experience is yet to come if cassette cogs have enough flex for that to happen.
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Old 12-06-17, 05:58 PM
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Cruiser 7D | Electra Bikes

the Tourney Shimano rear derailleur is the lowest level shimano made... it will have issues from time to time... if the bike gets dropped on the right side in any way, the derailleur will be knocked out of place and need strraitened.

this seems to NOT be what has happened this time since the der. is reluctant to shift to a larger sprockets, eh?

reluctant upshifts (to larger rear sprockets) can be caused by a bit of drag/friction in the cable housing/cable, or a der. that has been bent OUTWARDS, or a failing return spring in the der. itself... likely not a failed spring(NEW!)... that leaves a bent derailleur or mount, or a dragging cable.

look at the derailleur and it's relation to the frame and wheels... it should be parallel to the rim and the roller cage should be vertical compared to the sprockets... if any of that confuses you, take the bike to na shop and have them take a look...

that leaves us to look at the cable and housing... any kinks? Full length cable housing is typical on that type of bike frame... that's a LOT of cable housing! 5 feet of it, or more, is typical... lots of housing equals lots of FRICTION... the problem seemed to come along all on it's own, no crashes before, correct? it's that lengthy, mushy, cheapo cable housing... unless it's the STRANDED, Shimano SIS housing... look at the shift cable housing... it SHOULD say "SHIMANO SIS" on it every couple of feet... no label? it's spongy coiled junk housing....., replace it and the cable, since the cable will be low grade, RUSTABLE, steel.
Specify Shimano SIS housing, and a STAINLESS STEEL cable, ok?

Electras look nice, but are indeed low end, not very durable, bicycles.... you may want to upgrade the brake cables too, and get ALL the bearings professionally greased and adjusted.... the last Electra i "tuned up" had zero grease on the steering headset bearings, and next to none on the crank bearings....... the front wheel bearing cones were already damaged from being too tight and poorly greased... the brake tracks showed MAYBE three or four rides worth of use, the tires still had fringies on them.

Last edited by maddog34; 12-06-17 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 12-07-17, 07:10 AM
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Thank you for your comments maddog34. Since I had a free 90 day tuneup coming, I took my bike to my LBS for the issue. The shop mech said he rode the bike and saw the problem and made adjustments to the der. I'll know tomorrow if the problem is solved.
Can I replace the der with a better quality unit?
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Old 12-07-17, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by lhill View Post
Can I replace the der with a better quality unit?
You can almost always replace components with better units. The value of a bike drops faster than a new car. So the question is whether it is worth it to you, because generally it won't make the bike worth significantly more to anyone else.

Ride the bike, if it doesn't give you many problems then don't worry about it. Even the best components out there still need adjustment and care. So you'll still be going to the bike mechanic every now and then. Plenty of people ride Tourney's with no more issues than those with with 105, ultegra or Dura Ace components. The performance of these parts is not measured by trips to the mechanic.

It is also normal for all new bikes to have shifting issues soon after you start riding them. That is why every bike shop I'm familiar with offers a free tune up and they'll usually tell you what that break-in period will be.

Take note of some of the advice in previous posts. IE. If you are mashing hard on your pedals, then lighten up some when you begin to shift and until it is complete.

If the derailleur does continue to have issues, you should pursue it under your warranty if it covers such. If you are dissatisfied with gear ratios and other things, then upgrades might be worthwhile thing if the bike pleases you over all.

Last edited by Iride01; 12-07-17 at 09:03 AM.
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