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Loctite on Cleat Screws

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Old 12-04-17, 01:46 PM
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Lionheart
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Loctite on Cleat Screws

Does anyone have strong opinions on a dab of *Removable* Loctite on the threads of cleat attachment screws?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-04-17, 01:53 PM
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trailangel
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I do it. Blue Loctite.
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Old 12-04-17, 02:02 PM
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Good idea. Might also be a good idea to remove and replace the screws annually or semiannually, to keep them from rusting in place.
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Old 12-04-17, 02:12 PM
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Iride01
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I've not had any trouble with screws on my cleats coming loose. If you having troubles, then yes some type of thread locker that says it is a low or medium strength and will allow for removal is probably okay.

If you are not having problems, I wouldn't use anything.
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Old 12-04-17, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Lionheart View Post
Does anyone have strong opinions on a dab of *Removable* Loctite on the threads of cleat attachment screws?

Thanks in advance.

Depends how the cleat mounting nut is secured in the shoe sole, so there is the thread lock being stronger than the bonding with in the sole..

steel cleat nut plate accessible under the insole? got a soldering iron to break down the Loctite with heat applied to the bolt?


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Old 12-04-17, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Depends how the cleat mounting nut is secured in the shoe sole, so there is the thread lock being stronger than the bonding with in the sole..

steel cleat nut plate accessible under the insole? got a soldering iron to break down the Loctite with heat applied to the bolt?


+1 If you Loctite the screws in and cannot then remove them due to the nut spinning in the shoe, the shoe is trashed.
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Old 12-04-17, 02:34 PM
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fietsbob 
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Yup, had a Carnac SPuD touring shoes that did that (w/o using any threadlock) .. Performance Inc. refunded my return, fortunately..
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Old 12-04-17, 02:36 PM
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I guess it might make sense if you have issues with the screws coming loose.

For my part, it's always been the reverse. I've never had a screw come loose ---- ever. OTOH, I have had issues getting them loose after a season or so of riding in foul weather.
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Old 12-04-17, 04:31 PM
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The screws included with Speedplay cleats have blue loctite already applied.
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Old 12-04-17, 04:52 PM
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I've never had SPD cleats come loose so I never Locktite them but I do grease them heavily so I can remove them when I want to.
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Old 12-04-17, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MidTNBrad View Post
The screws included with Speedplay cleats have blue loctite already applied.
and instructions that specify loctite's usage.
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Old 12-04-17, 07:47 PM
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Like Hillrider, I go the other way and use an anti-seize paste on my shoe cleats to make sure they don't rust in place and become difficult to remove in the future. I've never had one come loose.....getting the screws good 'n tight is the key.

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Old 12-05-17, 12:47 AM
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the BLUE Loctite acts like a stiff wax on the threads... wax also SEALS the threads, preventing corrosion... the fine folks at Loctite understand that water creates corrosion.

a dab of gray silicone sealer will do the same, if you have no Blue around...

wow... once a year just to make sure they don't get rusted in, huh?... i use two pair of cleats in a year... CX & Gravel... nuf' said.
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Old 12-05-17, 03:44 AM
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I use blue loctite.
If it's readily available.
Not a ride-stopper if it isn't.
Never seen a single-insert.
All my shoes have had a plate carrying both (pairs of) mounting points - mtb cleats.
It can't be made to rotate w/o considerable effort.
I probably see about one incident yearly due to cleat becoming loose and twisting out of position.
One installation hint I rate higher than loctite though is to fill the hex socket with the sealant of your choice. Latex, silicone, liquisole...
Even wax might do it.
Hot glue would probably work too.
Failure to do so will IME within hours of use lead to a perfectly sized piece of gravel becoming firmly embedded in the hex socket, making future removal difficult.
My so far surefire fix for seized cleat screws is a MAG welder.
I put an M6 nut on top of the stubborn screw, weld a bead down the middle.
Might douse the shoe with water.
Then remove with a socket wrench.
If you want to go hard-core statistics, I haven't done enough to be anywhere near reliable.
But for casual statistics, the success rate is 100%.
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Old 12-05-17, 09:17 AM
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I've had screws loose, but far more that too more effort than should be required to get out. Ever try to drill out a cleat bolt? Not fun at all.
Use locktite, or grease on those bad boys.
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Old 12-05-17, 09:26 AM
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I have had a screw come loose a few times on the Look Keo cleats. Its still fairly rare so haven't bothered with a thread lock yet. If you hear the "creak" noise when tightening them, then you should be ok. But if I did use thread lock, then I'd use blue loctite like others mention above. I started carrying a spare cleat bolt and washer earlier this year but have yet to use it. It weighs nothing so might as well do that too.

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Old 12-05-17, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by dabac View Post
One installation hint I rate higher than loctite though is to fill the hex socket with the sealant of your choice. Latex, silicone, liquisole... Even wax might do it. Hot glue would probably work too. Failure to do so will IME within hours of use lead to a perfectly sized piece of gravel becoming firmly embedded in the hex socket, making future removal difficult. My so far surefire fix for seized cleat screws is a MAG welder. I put an M6 nut on top of the stubborn screw, weld a bead down the middle. Might douse the shoe with water. Then remove with a socket wrench.
The mag welding a nut on top of the bolt sounds a bit over the top to me. You couldn't pry out the stone with a pocket knife? I guess I'm lucky and have not experienced this yet. But I'm only riding on the road from NJ to NYC. I could see this being more of an issue if you do more gravel or trail riding perhaps. I think Look could design the cleat bolt to accept a 4mm allen (instead of a 3mm one). That might help this issue a bit.
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Old 12-05-17, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ptempel View Post
The mag welding a nut on top of the bolt sounds a bit over the top to me. You couldn't pry out the stone with a pocket knife? I guess I'm lucky and have not experienced this yet. But I'm only riding on the road from NJ to NYC. I could see this being more of an issue if you do more gravel or trail riding perhaps. I think Look could design the cleat bolt to accept a 4mm allen (instead of a 3mm one). That might help this issue a bit.
Apart from both being applicable to cleats, MAG welding and filling the socket are two unrelated fixes.
Welding is for seized screws and/or stripped or damaged heads.
Filling the socket with a soft sealant is to avoid grit or gravel lodging in the socket and interfering with future removal or adjustment.
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Old 12-05-17, 10:32 AM
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I'm with fietsbob and dsbrantjr. Loctite is for bolts you torque properly with a wrench on both sides. The plastic in the sole holding the t-nuts may or may not be strong enough to hold the thing when you are trying to remove the cleat. That said, it doesn't appear that folks that do use loctite are having a problem.

I use a 5N-m "click handle" and torque the bolts (shimano cleat nuts) into the shoe t-nut (Sidi Genius 5). I check the tightness every few weeks. No Loctite, and no issues so far.

Welding a nut onto the shaft of a broken nut is a standard repair/salvage technique. I think I'm on solid technical ground in suggesting that most folks will be dollars ahead, and will save a lot of time, if they avoid having to weld stuff to their bike shoes to remove stuck nuts. Ahem.

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Old 12-05-17, 10:51 AM
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I assemble new cleats dry. If one loosens, the bolts get Blue. I don't see loosening very often, maybe every several pairs of cleats so this seems to work just fine.

Ben
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