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Derailleur and Chain alignment - Road Bike

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Derailleur and Chain alignment - Road Bike

Old 06-10-05, 09:28 AM
  #1  
pjclarkson
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Derailleur and Chain alignment - Road Bike

My question is about whether I need to adjust the front or rear derailleur of my bike based on the symptoms I am encountering. When I have the chain on the large chain ring and the large cog, the chain does not line up with the teeth on the chain ring and also rubs a bit on the front derailleur. The shifting from one chain ring to the next works fine and the shifting between all gears works fine. It seems like a chain alignment problem but I am unaware of any adjustment like this on a road bike, I assume I need to adjust one of the derailleurs but I am not sure which one.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Note:
I am a novice to doing adjustments to the derailleurs and have not attempted any adjustments yet.
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Old 06-10-05, 09:40 AM
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You shouldn't use the big/big or the small/small chainring+cog combination. It's called "cross-chain" and it's hard on the drivetrain.

http://sheldonbrown.com/gears.html

"Try to avoid the gears that make the chain cross over at an extreme angle. These "criss-cross" gears are bad for the chain and sprockets. Especially bad is to combine the inside (small) front sprocket with the outside (small) rear sprocket. This noisy, inefficient gear causes the chain to wear out prematurely."
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Old 06-10-05, 12:16 PM
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It's a condition that occurs due to the proper alignment of the derailleurs and chain. There just isn't a reasonable way to cause the extremes to not rub, or otherwise sound/perform roughly.

Basically, I try not to use the big/big, big/second big, small/small, and small/second small combos for this reason. You'll find most do the same.
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Old 06-10-05, 12:27 PM
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pjclarkson
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Thanks for the tips, but one thing I left out was that this rubbing and mis alignment was not occurring before I removed the rear wheel to replace a tire. I think in the process the derailleur must have been moved in some way as to cause this?
Thanks again for any help.
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Old 06-10-05, 12:33 PM
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I would guess it's more a function of the alignment of the wheel after you replaced it versus before you took it out. The likelihood the derailleur took a "hit" would be slim to none (unless you dropped the bike or something, of course).
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Old 06-10-05, 02:41 PM
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Right. Make sure the wheel is centered in the frame. Usually, just fully seating the axle into the dropouts will take care of this.
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Old 06-11-05, 04:00 AM
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I can't really see how removing the rear wheel would affect your rear mech at all. When I travel to uni or home with my bike it always travels in bits and I've never had a problem with the mech alignment following a trip.

I would point you in the direction of this forum where George (biker7) and myself have a discussion of correct drivetrain usage:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=112281

Hope this is interesting/useful to you.
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Old 06-11-05, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Gaunt
I can't really see how removing the rear wheel would affect your rear mech at all.
I think the (correctly made) point is that if the wheel was not seated properly when remounting it, the relationship of the improperly positioned cassette could possibly cause an apparent malfunction of the rear derailleur.
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Old 06-11-05, 08:23 AM
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I guess it's nothing to worry about since you shouldn't be using those gear combos anyways. If the other combos work without rubbing, then just leave it as it is, and use the rubbing as a reminder that, oops, I shouldn't be in this gear combo. My understanding is that most manufacturers do not design the drive train to work smoothly in those combos, and the "problem" becomes more apparent as you go to higher-end equipment.

e.g. I have a shimano tourney rear der, and I can use the large chain-ring, wrap the chain around my head twice, and then go to the big cog and it still works! (Kinda gives me a Frankenstein rash, though.) Hahaha
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Old 06-11-05, 11:57 AM
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Matt Gaunt
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It would be really hard to get a wheel to sit anything but in its housings correctly in my experience though, that's what I was trying to say in my earlier post.

I don't know about you guys, but my rear wheel is either on straight or off, there is no in between.
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Old 06-13-05, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Gaunt
It would be really hard to get a wheel to sit anything but in its housings correctly in my experience though, that's what I was trying to say in my earlier post.

I don't know about you guys, but my rear wheel is either on straight or off, there is no in between.
I've seen plenty of people who have their rear wheel *slightly* torqued to the side when they put it back on. I don't do (and apparently neither do you), but that doesn't mean others don't.
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Old 06-13-05, 09:57 AM
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And, of course, if the skewer is not tight enough, it can torque the wheel out of alignment a tad.
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