Should I be worried about headset stack height??? Also, adjustment issue.
#26
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to be specific, is the difference in headset stack heights enough that it could have a significant impact on ride quality?
SECOND QUESTION:
i noticed while adjusting this headset, it gets a LOT tighter once i tighten down the top nut. keyed washer is in place and the race is not rotating when i tighten. is this bad or symptomatic of a bigger problem? i know this typically happens to some extent, i have adjusted a fair share of threaded headsets, this goes from being almost wobbly loose to way too tight. could my fork have bad or different threads?
i noticed while adjusting this headset, it gets a LOT tighter once i tighten down the top nut. keyed washer is in place and the race is not rotating when i tighten. is this bad or symptomatic of a bigger problem? i know this typically happens to some extent, i have adjusted a fair share of threaded headsets, this goes from being almost wobbly loose to way too tight. could my fork have bad or different threads?
If what you have is binding in one place, and slop in another when the handlebar is turned, that is an indication that the headset parts are not aligned, either because they are not fully seated in the frame/fork, or that the head tube and/or crown race seat needs to be milled into alignment.
HTH …
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i just installed a (BRAND NEW) headset... and fork, and it looks like my top tube is not level (it's sloping downward toward the seat tube) now of course it could be the fork.... but could it be the headset?
to be specific, is the difference in headset stack heights enough that it could have a significant impact on ride quality?
for those who happen to have a billion numbers and specs memorized, I believe it's a Peugeot PGN-10 frame. the fork i put on it is a sloping crown fork with a significant amount of tire clearance. i don't have the original fork so i guess the question is somewhat hypothetical.
SECOND QUESTION:
i noticed while adjusting this headset, it gets a LOT tighter once i tighten down the top nut. keyed washer is in place and the race is not rotating when i tighten. is this bad or symptomatic of a bigger problem? i know this typically happens to some extent, i have adjusted a fair share of threaded headsets, this goes from being almost wobbly loose to way too tight. could my fork have bad or different threads?
to be specific, is the difference in headset stack heights enough that it could have a significant impact on ride quality?
for those who happen to have a billion numbers and specs memorized, I believe it's a Peugeot PGN-10 frame. the fork i put on it is a sloping crown fork with a significant amount of tire clearance. i don't have the original fork so i guess the question is somewhat hypothetical.
SECOND QUESTION:
i noticed while adjusting this headset, it gets a LOT tighter once i tighten down the top nut. keyed washer is in place and the race is not rotating when i tighten. is this bad or symptomatic of a bigger problem? i know this typically happens to some extent, i have adjusted a fair share of threaded headsets, this goes from being almost wobbly loose to way too tight. could my fork have bad or different threads?
The "significant amount of tire clearance" isn't typical of a road bike, which indicates you may have the wrong fork for this frameset. That could raise the bike enough to produce the sloping top tube appearance. It might be a little funky to steer, but will probably work. I'd try to find the "right" fork, if possible. Not for the aesthetics, but for the improved handling.
There is probably nothing wrong with the threads on the steerer, but check to be sure the bearing retainers are properly oriented. I make that mistake, nearly every time. Mental block, I suppose. Other than that, just consider it a touchy adjustment, so you'll need to get it right, once, and leave it alone until your frustration bank is empty, again. Hopefully, the adjustment holds until then.
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Well, this was entertaining.
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So Bike Galpal, have you had time to see what the problem with the headset was or have you been too busy with this thread to work on the bike? I am sure your reporting back what the problem was will help others with a similar problem. Oh, as to whether the new headset would affect the slope of the top tube. Seems simple math. Compare the stack height of the old headset to the new headset. No one on this forum can do that for you because we don't have the parts in our hands. Just saying.
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In the interest of accuracy and so as not to further irritate the OP, the slope of the top tube will only be increased by the stack height differences between the lower race/crownrace of the two headsets. Probably about 1/2 of the total stack height difference.
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Thank you this thread was very informative and entertaining.
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Internet 101: quit feeding the trolls, and they soon seek food elsewhere...
fork 101: measure the fork. it's crown to axle length is your problem.
as to the "suddenly tightens" thing... the cups may not be seated correctly, the crown may be in contact with the lower cup, the bearing(s) may indeed be inverted, or the head tube may need dressed/aligned... and i've had a few times where one or more SEAL RINGS cause issues with a mixed install... did you swap on the crown race that came with the headset? or did you assume all crown races are identical, like sooooo many others do (guess how i know this)...? and i've found the wrong style or size caged bearing in a "headset" before, too... most likely not the issue this time,,, did you examine the fork's STEERER TUBE to verify that it is not bent? happens every now and then....
and a picture is worth a thousand words, so take a pic of the fork, headset, and install, then post them up...
my first experience on this forum led to insults because i'd never ran into a uniglide hub/cassette before... i was totally old school before my accident... now i have found sources of great info and gathered plenty of experiences to rely on, on top of 40 years of highly varied mechanical experiences... if Jesus returned tomorrow, the idiots that claim to be experts on him would throw irrelevant questions at him until he gave up and blew the planet to Smithereens... (That band's lead singer died yesterday, BTW, check out their tunes if you get a chance... fun stuff!...)
and i don't care if peeps don't dig my typing style or grammar, but i'll tell them if they screw up a term badly, or chronically misspell... we awl be diffrent, eh?
let it go and it will leave or stay.... 50% is better than zero chance..
your old peugeot used a FRENCH headset if it was made before about 1978 or so... they are annoyingly similar to english headsets, and many a person has fought long battles attempting to ruin their bike rather than pony up the bucks for the french style parts... the differences are minor, but important... stripped thread city!
did i type long enough to suit you, gal? is your issue resolved yet?
none of us has a reliable crystal ball. your info is all we have to go on... expect annoying questions, and folks rarely read ALL the responses before responding.
fork 101: measure the fork. it's crown to axle length is your problem.
as to the "suddenly tightens" thing... the cups may not be seated correctly, the crown may be in contact with the lower cup, the bearing(s) may indeed be inverted, or the head tube may need dressed/aligned... and i've had a few times where one or more SEAL RINGS cause issues with a mixed install... did you swap on the crown race that came with the headset? or did you assume all crown races are identical, like sooooo many others do (guess how i know this)...? and i've found the wrong style or size caged bearing in a "headset" before, too... most likely not the issue this time,,, did you examine the fork's STEERER TUBE to verify that it is not bent? happens every now and then....
and a picture is worth a thousand words, so take a pic of the fork, headset, and install, then post them up...
my first experience on this forum led to insults because i'd never ran into a uniglide hub/cassette before... i was totally old school before my accident... now i have found sources of great info and gathered plenty of experiences to rely on, on top of 40 years of highly varied mechanical experiences... if Jesus returned tomorrow, the idiots that claim to be experts on him would throw irrelevant questions at him until he gave up and blew the planet to Smithereens... (That band's lead singer died yesterday, BTW, check out their tunes if you get a chance... fun stuff!...)
and i don't care if peeps don't dig my typing style or grammar, but i'll tell them if they screw up a term badly, or chronically misspell... we awl be diffrent, eh?
let it go and it will leave or stay.... 50% is better than zero chance..
your old peugeot used a FRENCH headset if it was made before about 1978 or so... they are annoyingly similar to english headsets, and many a person has fought long battles attempting to ruin their bike rather than pony up the bucks for the french style parts... the differences are minor, but important... stripped thread city!
did i type long enough to suit you, gal? is your issue resolved yet?
none of us has a reliable crystal ball. your info is all we have to go on... expect annoying questions, and folks rarely read ALL the responses before responding.
#33
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At the risk of incurring the OPs wrath for a sub-par response, I don't see how headset choice would realistically make any visually noticeable difference in the height of the front end.
As has been pointed out, it is only the lower race that would impact this. And realistically, there is just not THAT much difference in lower stack height between headsets unless you are talking about one that is designed and sold/marketed specifically to add height.
I have used two headsets in the past that were intended to add lower stack height. One was a Cane Creek Plus 5 (added 5mm over the standard size) used to help the adjustment knobs on a suspension fork clear a down tube. Even just 5mm taller was very apparent looking at the headset. But 5mm is pretty insignificant in terms of what you are asking about. I don't think anyone would visually notice this extra 5mm in the slope of the top tube, and the effect on handling is minuscule. The other headset was a RWC Externalizer which added 15mm. That is enough to slightly effect handling (which is why I used it) and maybe a trained eye could see it in the slope of the top tube. However, this headset was unmistakable from 10 feet away as a freakishly high-stack lower headset. You would KNOW if you had a headset like this.
As has been pointed out, it is only the lower race that would impact this. And realistically, there is just not THAT much difference in lower stack height between headsets unless you are talking about one that is designed and sold/marketed specifically to add height.
I have used two headsets in the past that were intended to add lower stack height. One was a Cane Creek Plus 5 (added 5mm over the standard size) used to help the adjustment knobs on a suspension fork clear a down tube. Even just 5mm taller was very apparent looking at the headset. But 5mm is pretty insignificant in terms of what you are asking about. I don't think anyone would visually notice this extra 5mm in the slope of the top tube, and the effect on handling is minuscule. The other headset was a RWC Externalizer which added 15mm. That is enough to slightly effect handling (which is why I used it) and maybe a trained eye could see it in the slope of the top tube. However, this headset was unmistakable from 10 feet away as a freakishly high-stack lower headset. You would KNOW if you had a headset like this.
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