There must be a better way to set a crown race.
12-24-17, 04:46 PM
#26
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Stop with the snarky back and forth commentary.
12-24-17, 06:33 PM
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Neither.
I intended to reference that this was one more in a pattern of overkill. It one more of an excessive number of cases of overkill.
Some time in the last 30 years bicycles changed from simple things enjoyed by folks who relished the simplicity. Now, as reflected here on BF, it's about $800 hammers, data, imagined precision, and the ilk.
I intended to reference that this was one more in a pattern of overkill. It one more of an excessive number of cases of overkill.
Some time in the last 30 years bicycles changed from simple things enjoyed by folks who relished the simplicity. Now, as reflected here on BF, it's about $800 hammers, data, imagined precision, and the ilk.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
12-24-17, 06:49 PM
#29
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I like Yogiisims
https://nypost.com/2015/09/23/35-of-...orable-quotes/
7. “The future ain’t what it used to be.”
14. “Nobody goes there anymore. It’s too crowded.”
27. “It ain’t the heat, it’s the humility.”
31. “Take it with a grin of salt.”
....
https://nypost.com/2015/09/23/35-of-...orable-quotes/
7. “The future ain’t what it used to be.”
14. “Nobody goes there anymore. It’s too crowded.”
27. “It ain’t the heat, it’s the humility.”
31. “Take it with a grin of salt.”
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-24-17 at 06:53 PM.
12-24-17, 06:59 PM
#30
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...to the OP:
There are a lot of race setting tool sets now besides the one from Park. All are as good, work in about the same way, and can be had on Amazon.I used to use a piece of PVC like the one shown, until I started doing a lot of removals and installations. I think the one I bought came from Nashbar.
Works every bit as well as the Park, costs half as much.
For the holding of the fork while pounding on the race, you're on the right track. Just buy one of those and bolt it with lag screws or carriage bolts to a scrap piece of 2X4, which you can then clamp in your bench vise. It's a handy tool for other fork and headset related things, too.
...to the OP:
There are a lot of race setting tool sets now besides the one from Park. All are as good, work in about the same way, and can be had on Amazon.I used to use a piece of PVC like the one shown, until I started doing a lot of removals and installations. I think the one I bought came from Nashbar.
Works every bit as well as the Park, costs half as much.
For the holding of the fork while pounding on the race, you're on the right track. Just buy one of those and bolt it with lag screws or carriage bolts to a scrap piece of 2X4, which you can then clamp in your bench vise. It's a handy tool for other fork and headset related things, too.
Likes For 3alarmer:
12-24-17, 07:34 PM
#31
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I'm all for the right tool for the job but a crown race isn't rocket science and a PVC pipe with a dremel chamfered edge works fine.
Put a PVC pipe cap on the end and rap the PVC on the garage floor. The crown race should go on with light to moderate force. If the race fails to seat or requires lots of pounding then stop because something is wrong - incorrect race or poorly made, out of spec fork or similar.
If the race fails to seat then then something is wrong - wrong size race or poorly made, out of spec fork or similar.
-Tim-
Put a PVC pipe cap on the end and rap the PVC on the garage floor. The crown race should go on with light to moderate force. If the race fails to seat or requires lots of pounding then stop because something is wrong - incorrect race or poorly made, out of spec fork or similar.
If the race fails to seat then then something is wrong - wrong size race or poorly made, out of spec fork or similar.
-Tim-
Cheap, easy, quick, accurate.
12-24-17, 07:42 PM
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...to the OP:
There are a lot of race setting tool sets now besides the one from Park. All are as good, work in about the same way, and can be had on Amazon.I used to use a piece of PVC like the one shown, until I started doing a lot of removals and installations. I think the one I bought came from Nashbar.
Works every bit as well as the Park, costs half as much.
For the holding of the fork while pounding on the race, you're on the right track. Just buy one of those and bolt it with lag screws or carriage bolts to a scrap piece of 2X4, which you can then clamp in your bench vise. It's a handy tool for other fork and headset related things, too.
...to the OP:
There are a lot of race setting tool sets now besides the one from Park. All are as good, work in about the same way, and can be had on Amazon.I used to use a piece of PVC like the one shown, until I started doing a lot of removals and installations. I think the one I bought came from Nashbar.
Works every bit as well as the Park, costs half as much.
For the holding of the fork while pounding on the race, you're on the right track. Just buy one of those and bolt it with lag screws or carriage bolts to a scrap piece of 2X4, which you can then clamp in your bench vise. It's a handy tool for other fork and headset related things, too.
12-24-17, 07:58 PM
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12-24-17, 08:01 PM
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I use a length of copper tubing, and I always seat the race in my hands without the dropouts touching anything. The mass of the fork is sufficient to resist the impact force of the tube. And that's the same technique I have always used and taught as a bike shop service manager when using a factory crown race setter.
There is no reason to potentially damage the dropouts, blades or crown by placing the fork against anything. Do it in the air.
There is no reason to potentially damage the dropouts, blades or crown by placing the fork against anything. Do it in the air.
12-24-17, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mounttesa
I gave up and split the crown race. Cartridge bearings though.
12-24-17, 09:30 PM
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If you can't mount a race and split it so it will fit, it is now however much bigger than what it would have been if it fit.
It is probably something like a JIS race on a standard crown, making it's outer dimension now also .2mm too large.
12-26-17, 01:44 PM
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Are crown races really that hard to install? Not IME, they usually don't go very tight.
I've always installed them holding the fork in my hand.
I've always installed them holding the fork in my hand.
Last edited by Reynolds; 12-26-17 at 07:24 PM.
12-26-17, 01:59 PM
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poor machining, lousy tolerance inspections, a burr from trying to mount the race by smacking a tool while the fork waves around under an arm, using too soft of an install tool that has now distorted to the point where it just won't seat squarely, 1 1/8" tool over a 1" steerer....... etc.
instead of stepping back and thinking/inspecting, the ham-fisted installer just swings away, waiting to hear a sound they are muffling at the same time, with their arm, arm pit, hands, etc... How would one describe the minor tone change that occurs when a race fully seats against the crown.... hmmmm... it sounds sharper.... unless the tool is a super malleable material that muffles the resonances...
you'll notice the term "TAP" being used in relation to the installation process.... "Tap" force is rapidly consumed by a rubber floor mat...... so the installer swings with ever greater force.... sigh...
the human body is softer than a rubber mat... and a super light fork has next to no weight to counteract the impacts.....
i watched a shop helper try to pound the crown race on while resting the dropouts on his thigh once.... once.... one swing...... the paint was unchipped at least! nasty bruises, though..... "i wouldn't do that if..."... "why not?"... WHACK! (insert screaming teen sound here).... an important lesson was learned that morning....
Last edited by maddog34; 12-26-17 at 02:28 PM.
12-26-17, 02:28 PM
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You are completely wrong about this, and you have never tried it to have any opinion whatsoever. The fork and the arm holding it have more than enough mass to counteract the small amount of force necessary to completely seat a crown race with a slide race setter or a small hammer.
12-26-17, 03:17 PM
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I never ever ever set a crown race with the dropouts touching ANYTHING. Like some of those folks describe above, I cup the underside of the crown/fork in my paw, leaving the drops in the air. I actually made my own crown race setters out of PVC exactly shown in the pic that Timothy put up. Once slid into place, some grease, a few taps with a mallet, the task is completed. The PVC will allow the race to set square as long as you start light and don't try to beat the hell outta the damn thing. The PVC setters are super simple to make, cheap or free, and will not damage anything you are working on. I have been setting races like this for years and years and have never had a problem.
12-26-17, 04:43 PM
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You are completely wrong about this, and you have never tried it to have any opinion whatsoever. The fork and the arm holding it have more than enough mass to counteract the small amount of force necessary to completely seat a crown race with a slide race setter or a small hammer.
12-26-17, 04:51 PM
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12-26-17, 08:15 PM
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The Race is Set!
Everyone,
I want to thank you for all of the comments. This post was informative as it was entertaining.
Typically, I am one for buying the right tool for the job but the advantages of the PVC option was too strong to ignore, especially since I live 1/4 mile away from a plumbing store. So, I swung by, picked up a 2-foot section of 1" PVC pipe with a cap, altered the inner diameter of the pipe (with a Dremel; as suggested in the post by @TimothyH), then tested the tool by setting the race by holding the fork "legs" and tapping the pipe end on concrete until the race was set. Easy and effective just as promised. And all for $1.61.
Thanks again, all!
I want to thank you for all of the comments. This post was informative as it was entertaining.
Typically, I am one for buying the right tool for the job but the advantages of the PVC option was too strong to ignore, especially since I live 1/4 mile away from a plumbing store. So, I swung by, picked up a 2-foot section of 1" PVC pipe with a cap, altered the inner diameter of the pipe (with a Dremel; as suggested in the post by @TimothyH), then tested the tool by setting the race by holding the fork "legs" and tapping the pipe end on concrete until the race was set. Easy and effective just as promised. And all for $1.61.
Thanks again, all!
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12-26-17, 08:45 PM
#45
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Since the OP has his task completed, and the back and forth sniping didn't stop as we had requested, we will now close this thread.
Thread Closed.
Thread Closed.
