kovacsa

Hi All, Does anyone know about tighter gear ratios for cassettes?

This is my current cassette...

Manufacturer: Shimano
Mfr Part #: ICSHG5010136
UPC: 689228407510
Model: Shimano CS-HG50-10
Size: 11-36
Type: Shimano/SRAM 10 Speed
Style: Shimano/SRAM Spline
Cassette Body Type: Shimano/SRAM 8, 9, 10 Speed
Cassette Cogs: 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-36
Range: 11-36
Drivetrain Speeds: 10

When I am peddling and want to switch to a slightly harder (or easier) gear, and one switch often feels like a big change. I'm looking for a cassette (or solution in general) that will give me finer adjustments when I change gears so that the change does not feel as large. I don't want to switch the front chain ring either just to get small adjustments. If the first two cogs are eliminated (11T and 13T) that is okay as I don't use those much anyway. Any ideas? Any help is much appreciated! Thanks!

Barrettscv 

An 11-36 ten-speed is intended for mountain bikes and touring bikes where having a wide gear-range is more important than tight gear spacing. You want to use a road bike cassette.

A 12-27 ten-speed cassette will give you 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27. A 12-30 ten-speed cassette will give you 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-30.

Sram has a 12-32 ten-speed cassette that will give you 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28-32

gauvins

My cassette is 10-speed 15-34 (15-16-17-18-19-21-23-27-30-34)

A mix of Miche Primato (15-18) and Shimano XT (19-34)

fietsbob

"Corn cob" clusters, increases by just 1 tooth at a time..

race bike stuff .. 11 to 23?

11-23t = (11,12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23) ICS670010123







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Sy Reene

You could consider one of these, or take apart perhaps (not sure of ability of using any possible cogs with either cassette) and mix with your current cassette. Maybe others can chime in on compatibility?
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...IaAt_fEALw_wcB
Eg. from the 6600 14-25 cassette, use these 6: 14/15/16/17/19/21
From your current cassette, use the bottom 4 - ie. 24/28/32/36.
You'd still have the big gaps at the low end though. If you don't need the 36-tooth, maybe(?) possible to use the 23 and 25 also from 6600 cassette , and then only use the 28 and 32 from your current cassette for a 14-32 combo.

cny-bikeman

Without knowing more detail we're shooting in the dark for an appropriate answer.
1. Do you need to retain the 36 tooth? If not, what is the large cog size you would want as an alternative?
2. What are you running up front? - number and tooth count (yes, even though you say no chainring changes).
3. What is your max budget?
4. Do you have access to a good bike shop, either for cogs or to build you a custom cassette? Alternatively, are you willing to study and learn how to build a custom cassette and order the needed parts?

Unfortunately such predictable problems are more difficult to resolve because manufacturers don't make available cassettes with sane smallest cog sizes. In order to pedal downhill one gives up either useable range or comfortable gear transitions. I would think that might change with the advent of 1x gearing, but I'm not optimistic.

Racing Dan

What gears do you actually use and what size is the chain ring(s)? You should choose a cassette that is tighter in the region you are actually using. For instance a Shimano 10 sp. 11-28 has the exact same 21-19-17-15 as the Shimano 10 sp. 11-36. That aint much help if that is the range you use the most. To get around this you may need to use a smaller chain ring and, say, a 11-28 cassette. You need to supply some more info or its hard to give helpful answers.

Retro Grouch 

Yeah, but if you work out the actual gear inches for each ratio you'll find that the jump when you shift from the 11 to the 12 is still pretty big.

Actually, it's possible to make an 11 1/2 tooth cog. It's an 11 tooth cog that has been machined so that the chain doesn't fall all the way down to the cog's root.

Drew Eckhardt 

Sure. I've ridden cassettes up to 14-15-16-17-18-19-20-21-22-23. Based on that experience I think cogs with a two tooth jump before the 19 cog are inappropriate for road riding, 10% is nice past that, a 22 between the 21 and 23 isn't noticeable, and 20 between 19 and 21 is worse because it's one more cog to skip changing rings.

Depending on starting cog, with 10 that allows
11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21
12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23
13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25 or 26
14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25-28

With a 50 or larger ring, 13 is a good starting cog providing a big gear like the 52x13 Eddy Merckx used to dominate the classics. We're not Eddy.

52x14 is also an OK big gear; although then you're forced to shift up to the big ring early from 39x15.

With a 34 small ring on a compact double, I'd want an 11 starting cog to have a usable 12 cog on the inner ring and would just run a triple because that'd mean loosing low gears or ones in the middle.

Drew Eckhardt 

Nope. That has a gaping 2-tooth hole between 17 and 19 cogs.

11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-20 would be a corn cob although having ridden a 14-23 straight block I'd opt for a 21 large cog.

rm -rf

I'm running an 11-speed 14-32 cassette, built from a 14-28 and 11-32. It's perfect for me -- I get close ratios all the way up to 25 mph, and still have low gears for steep climbs. I have 34/50 chainrings.

Actually, the 14-28 would be fine by itself if I didn't have some very steep climbs.

Details in this BF post.

A few downsides:
I spin out at 29-30 mph, which is acceptable.
I have to shift 4 or 5 cogs when shifting the front ring. But that's fast and easy with Di2.
The small ring runs out of gears around 16-17 mph, instead of around 20-21 mph with an 11-32.
It's kind of expensive -- I've only found Ultegra 14-28 cassettes.

Lots of close shifts:

shelbyfv

Shimano "Junior" cassettes? Shimano CS-6600 Wide 10-Speed Cassette - Nashbar

cny-bikeman

...and that's another disadvantage to the move to smaller cogs.

CliffordK

As mentioned above, the "Junior Cassettes" tend to have a larger first sprocket.

But, that is all relative with respect to your chainring.

So, say you have a 52/14 high gear, you would have almost the same gearing by going with 41/11.

However, if you have, say a 11/25 and a 14/28 cassette, the 11/25 actually has a slightly wider gear range, despite having a smaller low gear.

Crankycrank

You could also try the Miche cassettes. https://www.probikeshop.com/en/gb/mi...ano/71241.html Although they don't shift quite as well as Shimano cassettes and I've heard complaints that they are a little more fragile with the cogs cracking sometimes this may be your only option that I'm aware of unless like some of the other posters you want to build your own out of 2-3 different cogsets. I like a close ratio cassette myself and really hate this trend of big jumps between gears just to eliminate a chainring.

fietsbob

I looked at what was easy to find on one sellers site,

that was good enough for me since i'm not buying any of them.










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kovacsa

Hi, Do you have pics of your custom cassette?

kovacsa

HI, Do you have any pics of your custom cassette?

cny-bikeman

A pic won't tell you how to source parts for and assemble a custom cassette - not the easiest task, and fairly expensive. It sounds like you may have only a single front chainring (called a "1x" system). Such a set up simplifies the bike, but there is no benefit without a cost. In this case, in order to allow both high and low gears the rear cogs have a very large range, and therefore larger jumps between gears. There is no solution other than a custom cassette to achieve smaller jumps on a 1x without changing the front. If you have a 1x the simplest solution in my view is a smaller range standard cassette and a smaller front chainring. Even then you need to decide how low and high a gear you need, and what the limitations are for size of your front chainring with your current cranks.