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TRP Spyke and Seat Stay Clearance

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TRP Spyke and Seat Stay Clearance

Old 01-17-18, 03:51 AM
  #1  
EduF
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TRP Spyke and Seat Stay Clearance

I'm currently using BB7 right now and just learned there's a dual piston action from TRP - Spyke.

I'd like to try it out as adjusting the pads ever so often on my BB7 are getting annoying, also some concern on the spacing for the caliper to the seat stays.

Here are some images:

Stock Tektro Auriga Disc Brakes


Upgrade to Avid BB7


I had to pull the brake piston lever a bit as it's touching the seat stays. Now I only have about 2mm clearance. Is it OK to 'preload' the piston springs like that?

Avid BB7 and TRP Spyre


I can't get an image of BB7 and Spyke side by side but I understand the Spyre is very similar.

Spyke (left) and Spyre (right)


Do you think the Spyke will fit fine with the tight seat stay clearance? Anyone know the height of Spyke?

By the way, the bike is Marin Muirwoods 29 2016.
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Old 01-17-18, 06:24 AM
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It doesn't look like it'll fit. If you buy a set to try, do you have another bike in which they will fit? Or - perhaps a friendly LBS that'll lend you one to check for fit? Adjusted correctly, the BB7s are good brakes. I'd be happy with those. I have them on my ECR and I like them a lot.
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Old 01-17-18, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by EduF View Post
I had to pull the brake piston lever a bit as it's touching the seat stays. Now I only have about 2mm clearance. Is it OK to 'preload' the piston springs like that?
I'd be comfortable preloading the spring. I do it on my own bikes, and it's the natural result of unscrewing the barrel adjusters. I like some "snap" to my brake levers, so I usually end up with a bit of preload.

I am not sure about your clearance. If the Spyre doesn't work, you might look at Rever brand brakes. Rever also is dual-piston. They are crazy expensive though.
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Old 01-17-18, 09:28 AM
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Got some more images, this time from the top.

Top view of BB7 and Spyre


Notice the position of the mounting screws relative to the piston lever.

BB7 mounted top view


Spyre mounted top view


My Marin Muirwoods top view


The piston lever for Spyre looks to be almost on top of the rotor and a offset a bit inboard the caliper mounting screws. Whereas BB7 is offset outboard away from the rotor.

I assume the same applies to Spyke? What do you think?
Attached Images
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751263160_m.jpg (84.3 KB, 171 views)
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751263669_m.jpg (80.3 KB, 172 views)
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Avid_BB7_3.jpg (111.8 KB, 175 views)
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Old 01-17-18, 10:35 AM
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...as adjusting the pads ever so often on my BB7 are getting annoying...
top picture is a hydraulic disc, (Y/N?) the pad wear compensation is automatic on hydraulic disc brakes ..

the choice is which hydraulic post mount disc fits..

mechanical discs require you to do the work, which you find annoying..


[gone to a 140 disc already?]






....

Last edited by fietsbob; 01-19-18 at 11:14 AM.
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Old 01-17-18, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
top picture is a hydraulic disc, (Y/N?) the pad wear compensation is automatic on hydraulic disc brakes ..
It's hydraulic. I prefer mechanical.

Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
mechanical discs require you to do the work, which you find annoying..
The thing with the BB7 is I had to mount it without the conical spacers because of the seat stay clearance issues. This is not ideal and causes the caliper to not center at all - which means very frequent adjustments and not only with the inboard and outboard pad, but the whole caliper itself.

I believe Spyre/Spyke doesn't need those conical spacers as they have dual piston action. And I'm cool with adjusting the pads from time to time, but not the caliper itself.
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Old 01-18-18, 10:23 AM
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I have read opinions here ,the 3 mm , tiny. adjustment screws are a PITA to use, and , once unstuck from factory assembly stickiness,

Then don't stay in their subsequent adjustment.


but take your chances.. , learn by doing..





...

Last edited by fietsbob; 01-18-18 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 01-18-18, 01:20 PM
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If the post mount tabs on the caliper assume the thickness of the V brake pad mounting washers.. they're the same washer pairs .

then other brakes will sit differently on the frame, than the Avid.. test & report..
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Old 01-19-18, 10:59 AM
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I had the same problem and just used a hex head bolt rather than the Allen head bolt supplied. I ground the head down a bit for even more clearance.
You should only use the barrel adjusters to remove slack in the cable, not to adjust the brakes - it's in the manual.
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Old 01-19-18, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
I have read opinions here ,the 3 mm , tiny. adjustment screws are a PITA to use, and , once unstuck from factory assembly stickiness,

Then don't stay in their subsequent adjustment.


but take your chances.. , learn by doing..





...
yep, this is the biggest problem with the TRPs, they should have used some type of retaining mechanism like the BB7's.
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Old 01-21-18, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
yep, this is the biggest problem with the TRPs, they should have used some type of retaining mechanism like the BB7's.
Saw some reviews and I guess that's the only bad thing with TRP Spyke/Spyre. But TRP say they have since changed the thread locker to something stronger.

I bit the bullet and bought a pair as I saw a good deal in ebay. $93 with 180 160 TRP29 rotors. I'll update as soon as it gets installed.
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Old 02-18-18, 07:30 AM
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UPDATE

TRP Spyke arrived. Here are some side by side comparison to BB7.

Side View


Top View


Spyke installed on chain stay of Marin Muirwoods with 160 TRP29 rotor. Cleared of seat stay clearance.


Another angle. Piston arm does not hit seat stay, but tightening the cable is a bit tricky - no biggie - just push the piston with the wire a bit and tighten.


And here's the top view showing better clearance from the seat stay. Arm is directly above rotor.


Initial observations.
1. Easy to install. No need for conical washers.
2. Adjusting pads using 3mm hex is not too intuitive - you'll have to estimate how much rotation you did and hope to have the same rotation for the opposite pad. Unlike BB7 where you can count clicks.
3. Lever feels a bit mushy and not snappy - not sure if I like it or not yet. Still using Avid SD7 levers and Jagwire cable and housing.

Now just to bed in the pads. How would you know if the pads are already bedded in?

Will update on performance soon.
Attached Images
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Spyke_vs_BB7_top_small.jpg (30.5 KB, 28 views)
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Spyke_160rear_frame_small.jpg (62.3 KB, 28 views)
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Spyke_160rear_side_small.jpg (65.8 KB, 28 views)
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Spyke_160rear_top_small.jpg (59.4 KB, 28 views)
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Spyke_vs_BB7_side._small.jpg (35.8 KB, 28 views)

Last edited by EduF; 02-25-18 at 02:41 AM.
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