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Bent derailleur attached directly to frame

Old 01-24-18, 07:45 PM
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Bent derailleur attached directly to frame

Had a buddy ask me to look at his bike. The derailleur is bent, I think it is the frame itself that is bent as the derailleur is attached directly to the frame, no hanger. Has anyone seen this before? Is the solution to bend the frame till the derailleur hangs straight? Pictures below.

Thank you.
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Old 01-24-18, 08:09 PM
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That is a hanger that the derailleur is mounted on - it's just part of the frame instead of part of the derailleur. It needs to be straightened carefully, preferably with a tool/gauge that most bike shops will have. It is sometimes hard to do it by eye, as the hanger can be twisted as well as bent inward.
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Old 01-24-18, 08:40 PM
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Park Tool makes a DAG* Tool, but it's like $65 or something. I have one and it works brilliantly, albeit honestly, on low end stuff or if in a pinch, you can use a large/long** Channel Locks.


*Derailleur Alignment Gauge
**12" - the length really helps with subtle changes/movements
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Old 01-24-18, 09:16 PM
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^

Yeah, that's a 7-speed so the cogs are a little more widely spaced and the hanger alignment isn't as critical as on a more expensive bike. Most of the time it's the hanger that's bent so you might not need to replace your derailleur. What you're trying to accomplish is to get the chain exactly in line with the plane of your cassette cogs. If you try to bend the derailleur hanger back by eye, (and I've been successful doing that) be sure to leave your derailleur bolted in place so you don't accidentally ovalized the derailleur mounting hole.
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Old 01-25-18, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
^ If you try to bend the derailleur hanger back by eye, (and I've been successful doing that) be sure to leave your derailleur bolted in place so you don't accidentally ovalized the derailleur mounting hole.
A longish M10 x 1.0 bolt threaded into the hole will do the same and also give some twisting/bending leverage if working by hand without the special tool. I would thread it in all the way to the head to support the threads better.
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Old 01-25-18, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
A longish M10 x 1.0 bolt threaded into the hole will do the same and also give some twisting/bending leverage if working by hand without the special tool. I would thread it in all the way to the head to support the threads better.
Almost surely going to give you something better to grab onto than a derailleur too. The only problem that I can see is that you have to have an M10 bolt on hand.
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Old 01-25-18, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
A longish M10 x 1.0 bolt threaded into the hole will do the same and also give some twisting/bending leverage if working by hand without the special tool. I would thread it in all the way to the head to support the threads better.
M10 x 1 is not a common thread. The fine metric thread on common bolts is 1.25. A M10x1 axle would be much easier to find.
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Old 01-25-18, 11:35 AM
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You can mount a rear wheel onto the hanger (rear axles are 10mm) and use it to straighten the hanger until the two wheels are parallel. The tool is ideal, but this works as well.
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Old 01-25-18, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart
M10 x 1 is not a common thread. The fine metric thread on common bolts is 1.25. A M10x1 axle would be much easier to find.
Last time I had to straighten an integrated hanger on a steel frame, I used an old wheel I had laying around. Threaded the axle into the hanger mount and paralleled the wheel with the mounted wheel.
Worked great, smooth shifting and was free for me.

Edit: I should have check for any additional replies before adding mine. I had my browser open to Dan's post for a while before getting back and submitting my post.
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Old 01-25-18, 02:57 PM
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I have a spare wheel or two laying around, I'll try that first.
Thanks.
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