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Why does BB spindle length matter...
I'm not totally new to cranking in bikes, but I want to upgrade the crankset on mine and am seeing that they all indicate what size bb spindle length they are compatible with. I understand the importance of spindle length on the alignment with the cassette, but why does it matter, when it comes to the crankset itself? Thanks!
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Line axis being proper reduces premature wearing.
side loading chain sucking shifting efficiency clearance concerns |
Different cranksets sit in different places on the taper of the spindle. You would think that all would sit say 14mmm onto the taper so any two cranksets would sit it the same place with the same chainline. One would think two countries separated by 12 miles of water would use the same bottom bracket threading. (English and French. They cannot even agree which direction to thread the cups. One would think the bicycle industry would get itself together and create standards. (Scratches head.) But they have! Dozens of them! There are standards to fit any possible application(/nationality/units system/you name it).
rant, rant. But you get the point. And then there is the fact that square taper cranksets tend to sit progressively further in as they get re-assembled. Sometimes so far that the crank starts to hit the chainstay and therefore now requiring a longer spindle (or shims or the bottom bracket cup needs a washer to space it out). Ben |
Originally Posted by 2TrakMind
(Post 20139390)
I'm not totally new to cranking in bikes, but I want to upgrade the crankset on mine and am seeing that they all indicate what size bb spindle length they are compatible with. I understand the importance of spindle length on the alignment with the cassette, but why does it matter, when it comes to the crankset itself? Thanks!
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Latest stuff eliminated the choice .. tube spindle fixed to crank arms.
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Spindle too short, and the chainring hits the chainstay.
Spindle too long, and chainline offset makes shifting suffer. |
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
(Post 20139874)
Spindle too short, and the chainring hits the chainstay.
Spindle too long, and chainline offset makes shifting suffer. As Bob says- that's gone by the wayside with modern two-piece cranks. |
I've been tempted to increase Q just for the duck (non webbed) feet. Unsure if it's even possible based on my reading-google-lbs-searching.
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Originally Posted by Troul
(Post 20140098)
I've been tempted to increase Q just for the duck (non webbed) feet. Unsure if it's even possible based on my reading-google-lbs-searching.
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Aka; Knee Savers... I used a set on a bike tour that promised to be wet... West Ireland..
moved the pedal out so my shoe-covers cleared the crank-arms. http://www.bikemania.biz/knee-savers...mbent-bikes.ht |
I honestly had forgotten all about the pedal spacers being an option. Thanks!
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the link yields a 404 error.
I see SS & chrome moly as an option. Pretty sure one will gull & the other would eventually rust. |
Originally Posted by 79pmooney
(Post 20139424)
Different cranksets sit in different places on the taper of the spindle.
Ben |
Originally Posted by wheelreason
(Post 20140832)
Is that a west coast thing? Actually (assuming the crankset and spindle are compatible) they sit in the same place. What is (may be) different is the distance from this point to where the rings and pedal threads end up from crank to crank.
Ben |
Back in the olden days, crank arms were designed to be at a right angle to the bottom bracket spindle. That required a bottom bracket spindle in the 120's to space the chainring out far enough to miss the frame's chain stay.
Modern square taper cranksets have the crank arms angled or offset outward a skosh. Some are offset a little more than others. The good news is that they allow much shorter bottom bracket spindles to be used. The bad news is that now you have to match the bottom bracket with the crankset. |
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