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Old 02-10-18, 03:29 PM   #1
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Rear derailleur & fender mishap

2.3 miles from my car. ugh. pulled the junk down & out & was able to pedal back as a single speed. loosened the fender nuts & straightened that out too. wasn't pretty but it got me back. if I bend the fender stays back, I can salvage the fender but the derailleur is toast








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Old 02-10-18, 04:08 PM   #2
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Pretty impressive! Did a stick get into the chain and you pedaled it into the derailer?

The fender is pretty simple, bending the stays should be fine. I suspect you'll need to do a proper derailer hanger alignment, as well as inspecting drive side spokes, before you finish the derailer replacement.
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Old 02-10-18, 04:34 PM   #3
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That's not an expensive derailleur so I'd probably replace it too. If pushed, however, I think I could probably bend it back straight enough to work with just my hands. 7-speed isn't too picky about perfect alignment.
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Old 02-10-18, 11:49 PM   #4
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Don't forget to check that axle for straightness. The freewheeled hub makes this possibility greater then a cassette one.


Across my office is a Campy NR rear der that I wrapped up above my frame late one night. In my case the dropout was still good but the rack, fender, der, chain, wheel/axle all took a hit. In my case I rode into a pot hole and the collapsed rim allowed a spoke to bow out and catch the cage. Not the first or last time this has happened. Andy
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Old 02-11-18, 11:49 AM   #5
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Pretty impressive! Did a stick get into the chain and you pedaled it into the derailer?

The fender is pretty simple, bending the stays should be fine. I suspect you'll need to do a proper derailer hanger alignment, as well as inspecting drive side spokes, before you finish the derailer replacement.
re: stick? I think so, but none was found at the scene.
re: hanger alignment, so those parts are separate?
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Old 02-11-18, 11:52 AM   #6
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That's not an expensive derailleur so I'd probably replace it too. If pushed, however, I think I could probably bend it back straight enough to work with just my hands. 7-speed isn't too picky about perfect alignment.
this part broke off. could this be plastic? this is on an older Trek FX 7.0 Alpha, so I'm thinking, least expensive components

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Old 02-11-18, 11:54 AM   #7
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Not the first or last time this has happened. Andy
comforting. thanks. was thinking of removing the fenders for good, but then hoping to keep them on
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Old 02-11-18, 12:15 PM   #8
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Caught a branch in the rear wheel apparently..

Nothing expensive was damaged mudguard is a thermoplastic .. it will straighten out..
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Old 02-11-18, 12:28 PM   #9
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re: hanger alignment, so those parts are separate?
Not knowing the bike, and guessing a bit looking at the pictures, I think the derailer hanger is part of the frame on this bike. It's the tab hanging down and behind the wheel dropouts. Eyeball it when you take the old derailer off, and if it's obviously bent in (or out) take a big adjustable wrench and try to straighten it. If shifting can't be tuned in with the new derailer by adjusting cable tension, take it to your LBS to get it checked out.
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Old 02-11-18, 01:05 PM   #10
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trying to figure out the correct replacement part. found these two any opinions?

TX75
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZMDJSK...XFURGNTS&psc=0


TX55
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZM9RDQ...XFURGNTS&psc=1
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Old 02-11-18, 01:28 PM   #11
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I doubt there is any performance difference between those two derailleur offerings.
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Old 02-11-18, 07:16 PM   #12
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thanks. just gave the wheel a better look after washing it. all spokes are intact (attached at both ends) & feel like they all have the same tension. but I did find one with a dent. also when I spin the wheel it has an irregularity at one point so that it taps a brake pad. guess I'll get the spoke replaced & wheel trued. I guess the offending stick broke & flew away. it's all my fault completely. the muddy trail was like glue so I was riding the edge over some leaves to avoid the mud in this spot

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Old 02-11-18, 08:21 PM   #13
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You might find these videos helpful:

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Old 02-11-18, 09:07 PM   #14
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You might find these videos helpful:
thanks!
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Old 02-13-18, 12:28 PM   #15
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took the wheel & derailleur down to our LBS. owner says go get the bike & I'll set you up while you wait. not kidding you. an hour later & $90 I'm good as new. told him he robbed me of my street cred by fixing my bike for me. he just smiled & said but now he has piece of mind

he had what looked like a no-name unit in a drawer out back
left the spoke & just tweaked a few spokes
left the cable just trimmed it & shortened some excess cable at the top & replaced the small section of housing at the derailleur

also he was able to tweak the alignment of the new unit (incl hanger) which I think was his main interest. the old hanger looked fine but his replacement had a hanger attached, so ...

of course we had to listen to ea. others stories, but it's all time well spent.




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Old 02-13-18, 09:23 PM   #16
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good upgrade
the logo's are scraped off but it resembles an Altus derailer
main point being, the main body pivot is thicker aluminum vs the stamped steel plate on your dead one. Less wiggly, more precise shifting
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Old 02-13-18, 09:44 PM   #17
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Yipes! I have yet to have this happen, reason: Pure stupid luck!

I'd agree this looks to be an altus, so you even got an upgrade!

Ironically I purchased a new in package tourney RD today for my beater. The older style then yours. I'm curious because the majority of nasty failures I've seen like that have been Tourney derailleurs. Is there something about them that causes this, or are they just not as forgiving if you put a lot of miles on them?
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Old 02-14-18, 04:41 AM   #18
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good upgrade
the logo's are scraped off but it resembles an Altus derailer
main point being, the main body pivot is thicker aluminum vs the stamped steel plate on your dead one. Less wiggly, more precise shifting
oh! OK, thanks for reaching out!
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Old 02-14-18, 04:44 AM   #19
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majority of nasty failures I've seen like that have been Tourney derailleurs. Is there something about them that causes this, or are they just not as forgiving if you put a lot of miles on them?
I don't think sticks play well together with spokes & derailleurs regardless of brand. btw mine did not have a lot of miles on it
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Old 02-14-18, 10:02 PM   #20
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Yipes! I have yet to have this happen, reason: Pure stupid luck!

I'd agree this looks to be an altus, so you even got an upgrade!

Ironically I purchased a new in package tourney RD today for my beater. The older style then yours. I'm curious because the majority of nasty failures I've seen like that have been Tourney derailleurs. Is there something about them that causes this, or are they just not as forgiving if you put a lot of miles on them?
They're made of thin stamped steel plates and plastic. So they're easy to bend out of alignment; which then puts them in reach of the spokes...
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Old 02-15-18, 02:01 PM   #21
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Your noname derailleur may be better than the one it replaced.

No need to change spokes. Slightly bent spokes are OK, as they can still maintain tension.
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Old 02-15-18, 02:29 PM   #22
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Your noname derailleur may be better than the one it replaced.

No need to change spokes. Slightly bent spokes are OK, as they can still maintain tension.
thanks, he only charged me $26 for the part
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