I don't know how to replace these fork bearings.
 

It's amazing that I can rebuilt the front end of a car and don't know what to do here but I'm stuck. The fork was fairly rusted and wouldn't come loose even with a mallet. I ended up prying out and damaging the plastic washers including the cone shaped one. I'm not sure if I can buy those alone and while I don't mine replacing everything I don't know if the black portions are like races on a car rotor that I need to hammer out or if they're part of the bike frame. I assume the former but figured I was better safe than sorry so I'm asking.

Honestly, if you know what I need and can just post an Amazon link I'd be highly thankful.

Thanks in advance for the help as I've watched tons of videos and can't find a setup just like this.

As a side note, I do have this brand new sitting in my parts box if it helps me at all:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some threadless headset designs have a compression ring to help keep everything together. There is a split in the ring or it has a bevel to it that is friction fit. If that compression ring does not come out first, the fork won't drop free without excessive force.

In the picture that you have provided, it is showing a cartridge bearing that is sitting in a race (the upper headset cup), the entire bearing should just lift out. You would then replace with a new cartridge bearing that fits your headset. Cannot really tell you more than that from the picture. Could you provide a make and model of your headset? Barring that if you provide and make and model of your bike, we can also look that information up.

The bearing system in your picture is a cartridge bearing setup, but the Amazon page that you have linked to shows a caged bearing headset set up. They are not interchangeable. Unless you want to replace the old headset for the new one from Amazon (shouldn't need to, unless the old one is damaged).

Cartridge bearings look like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Bicycle.../dp/B017YXGOI2

Just linked to the first FSA cartridge bearing replacement that Google showed me, this might not be what you need, just a visual reference.

The black part is the headset cup. It is pressed in to the bike frame’s head tube.

First things first, does this headset used sealed cartridge bearings or caged bearings?

Edit: nevermind, the poster before me (Scuba) is way ahead on this, just answer his questions first.

The black part of the headset cup is indeed, separate to your bike frame, but some new designs are also integrated and part of the bicycle frame itself.

There is a correct tool to remove the headset cups.
https://www.parktool.com/product/head-cup-remover-rt-1

Here is a link to the tool that presses the cups in.
https://www.parktool.com/product/bea...up-press-hhp-2

The links to Parktool is just a visual reference for you, lots of DIY versions. Or depending on where you are located, if there is a bicycle co-op near you, they can teach you how to use those tools and rent them out to you.

So the best I can find is that it's a Tien Hsin TH-23 but I see no labeling to confirm this. The bearings seem in fair enough condition that they're able to be used for the next year it's the plastic parts I had to bash on with a chisel to get out that are mangled. The fork was rusted badly so nothing was going to "slide" off. The bearings do not drop out of those cups or housing they're sitting in, I can't pull them out manually either without some serious force.

I bought this as a fairly beat up frame and fork only at the swap as I figure I had enough parts floating around to complete it and I'm going to toss my Bafang mid drive in it just because well, why not. Anyway, the bearings are the only thing I don't have and the only thing that seems like a big question mark with a lot of different styles.

Did I answer everything, I think I got all the important stuff.

Given the look of that headset cup and bearing I would be inclined to push the cups out and get a replacement headset. It’s not hard to do, and need not be that expensive.

That's kinda what I was thinking, I can make the tool to push them out and I have a pressed for my car repairs. Any suggestions on a set to use?

Assuming they're they're not seized and you have no plans to re-use them, a large flathead screwdriver is an easy way to bash out headset races. You can fit the new one with a length of threaded rod and some large washers.

A set that fits. :-)

Seriously, get them out, measure the external diameters of the cups where they go into the frame, and then find some that match at a bike shop. There are plenty of options.

Hahaha okay, thanks to you all, I will pound em out and go from there.

Put this under the worst advise ever.

DO NOT "bash out" the headset cups! It's a bicycle, there are very few thing you would ever bash out.

The quickest and easiest way to remove the cups is using the Park 'rocket', use it with a tap, tap, tap and the cups fall out with out damaging the headtube(the part they fit in).

You can make one that works by cutting slots in some 3/4 copper pipe and spreading the ends so it look like the park tool. Put a cap on the other end, and tap, tap, tap.

OR, you can use a brass drift to tap out the cups. Tap them going side to side from the inside, working your way around the cup. Just tap, tap, tap. No need to use excess force, or bash them out.

Or you can use a piece of pvc pipe as a drift, this is gentle on the cups(if you care). Again tap, tap, tap around the cup and they will come out.

The reason you don't want to bash them out, but get them out evenly is that if the come out crooked you can distort the head tube. This will make getting new one in that much more difficult.

For future reference, a few taps with a deadblow hammer on the top of the steerer tube, then under the fork crown will loosen up the tapered ring of the head set.

And don't use a screwdriver, that's the wrong tool.

Am I the only one who thinks there's a wire circlip holding the race in place?
Steve

Knock the whole thing out, replace entire part .. a Bike shop 'rocket tool' contacts the entire ring inside the frame and pushes it out

equally around .. a case where a bike shop, is better than a DIY bodge.. to not damage the frame..

I was actually wondering that myself. I have never seen a headset with a clip holding the bearings in (and I don’t see why it would be needed), but it does sort of look like that in the picture.

more likely press fitted in the headset factory...

if it were Chris King, after removing whole thing, you could send it in and have just the bearings replaced.. but it's not.



...

Okay, now I'm back to confused again. There does seem to be a a little ring in their holding the bearing in place but it's hard to tell. Will this work to get me back on the road:

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-T...set&th=1&psc=1
[MENTION=62196]leob1[/MENTION] thanks for the concern, in no way was I going to use a steel screwdriver to bash anything out of an aluminum tube but this is online so I imagine some would. I have some 3/4" aluminum tube, I was actually going to slot it and make the "rocket" tool. Or use some brass drafts like I was working on a car. Also, on the fork the rust had caused enough issue that the diameter was different and nothing was going to willingly slide back off there without force. I mangled my mallet trying, tapped from the sides, top, bottom, all to the edge of where I was comfortable for the materials I was working with.

Its excess bother to not just replace the whole thing... ..




i refuse to shill for amazon ... you are on your own, there.

I'm a disabled single full time father of two kids on a very low fixed income who can only order online soooooo, it's what I got unless you have cheaper solutions that don't involve me having to go into a building.

Hahahaha I'm messing with you, I mean, it's all true but I wanted to make it sound as sad as humanly possible for maximum impact : )

substitute a loose ball headset they are very low cost.. and the bike shop will get you the right part ..

sight unseen no measurements taken .. swim..

Anybody know if this will work:

https://www.amazon.com/FSA-141-2335-...earing+headset

Or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-T...set&th=1&psc=1

Or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Threadless-Mo...earing+headset


I don't need you to pledge your support to Amazon or anything but LBS isn't an option for me and I need to order online.

That's what I see

I replaced the headset bearings on my folding bike with inserts (see attached) made by Cane Creek ($30 at LBS). They were held in by circlips IIRC. Basically a drop-in replacement. Check dimensions!
Steve

Tuscon, If you have a friend that will help get your bike to the LBS and the LBS will help you out, I'd have them take a look at it.

The circlip folks are talking about is the little wire around the top outer edge of the bearing you need to remove. It's stuck in a little groove. It retains the bearing and if it doesn't come out first, the bearing is not going to move. If you want to risk trying it yourself, you could use a skewer or small screwdriver to pull the exposed end out of the groove, and then to remove the circlip all the way around the circumference.

You then could use a long, stout screwdriver to reach through the headset and catch on the bearing edge. Then tip tap. Then move the screwdriver to the other edge. Tip tap. Think of how Bob Ross would hit a hammer: "We just want a happy little bearing to pop out. We don't want it to get skewed and stuck. Tip tap! One side. Tip tab! The other side. And the the bearing pops out and we have a happy little bearing recess, ready for a new bearing."

I agree with above: do NOT bash ANYTHING to do with bearings. Unless you're replacing the thrust bearing on the prop shaft of a sinking Ohio Class submarine and the seals are leaking and the boats gonna sink if you don't replace that bearing and the darned thing isn't coming out. I trust that you don't have a submarine: don't bash bearings. Look up the Park Tool Headset Bearing Rocket, and related videos.

The bearings are totally fine, no issues at all, they seem to be in great shape with no grit or grim. They also do seem to be held in with retaining clips but I guess I wasn't clear enough about the situation or maybe gave unneeded details. I just want to replace everything, bearings, races, cups, caps, all of it, I want to replace it all. Here's what the plastic cap looks like and I'm assuming I can't get these anyplace along or I would just slap it back together with a new part and leave the bearings and everything else just the way they are.

A LBS shop is not even slightly an option for me, I live rural and have health issues that prevent this from happening.