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Smallest cog on cassette broken when trying to remove cassette.

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Smallest cog on cassette broken when trying to remove cassette.

Old 03-04-18, 05:30 AM
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BikerHikes
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Smallest cog on cassette broken when trying to remove cassette.

topic title continued............ And it's stuck and won't come off.

Tip, info or otherwise interpreted as a constructive complaint (offtopic)

I'm not allowed to post URL's until I have 10 posts.
I wanted to share some photos that show the issue visually.
May I suggest this board to use captcha instead of this 10 post rule.
Besides friends or associates in the business of bike mechanics online forums are about the only place to ask for help.
It's a bit tricky asking for help when your not allowed to do this, that, such or so like placing picture links when such rules are in place.

Many forums complain about users not posting photos in case of troubleshooting ironically. This board enforces me not to from the get go. Any particular place on this forum to post board suggestions? This might help me get to that 10 post count quikly.
I don't want to spam to 10 posts for that particular reason and don't want to be a pain in the back doing so.

Take it as a friendly piece of advice and let's move on.

ON TOPIC

I never removed a cassette before. I watched a video on youtube. The tutor on youtube said it should come of easily or as in "shouldn't be to hard or stiff"
I had the CS-HG50 8 speed cassette and I bought the same one new.

I use a chain whip and a cassette lockring remover.
I don't use the wrench as is used often in many of the videos because the lockring remover came with a handy all in one lever arm that fits over the lockring.

I tried to use the whip and lockring and it required alot of strength and I rotated the wrench/lever attached to the lockring fitted on the end of the cassette left/anti clockwise as instructed.

What happened is that the cassette did not come of, rather a top ring came of and the first cog on the cassette (as in teared ala broken)
There are braking points on the attachment points that held the first cog.

By the looks of it from my newbie bike mechanics eyes this is a inner cillindrical tube in between the axel and the cassette that has rivets over which the cassette slides on to. I know this because I already bought a new cassette and it doesn't have this. It's this rivetted part where the teared metal aka breaking points are situated. It doesn't seem part of the cassette itself so I don't think it is what held the first cog in place.

Sharing a picture at this point would be really helpful.
My biggest worry is that it's part of the wheel and that I have to replace that in the worst case scenario. Let's hope it isnt.

If people can't help me based on my explanation can somebody direct me to a forum/messageboard with bike mechanics where I can post pictures on my first post attempt.
Likely a captcha based messageboard.

I thank everyone wholeheartedly for their attention.

Last edited by BikerHikes; 03-04-18 at 05:39 AM.
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Old 03-04-18, 06:32 AM
  #2  
dsaul
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It sounds like there isn't a problem at all. The lock ring is separate from the cassette and threads into the freehub body. Most cassettes have individual cogs and spacers for the first several cogs and then the larger ones are pinned together. The individual cogs and spacers are just stacked onto the freehub body after the pinned section goes on. Your replacement cassette should be this way, but they are usually shipped with a plastic piece through the center to hold it all together.

As for removing the rest of the cassette from your freehub, the rest of the loose cogs and spacers should just pull off. You may have to twist them slightly, because they can dig into the freehub body and become stuck. The same goes for the pinned together stack of cogs. They can become really stuck from digging into the freehub splines. You may have to tap on them with a hammer to free them.

The new cassette will have to be stacked on the freehub splines. They only fit one way, because one spline is larger than the others.
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Old 03-04-18, 07:29 AM
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Good to hear this supposedly good news, I began to worry.

Actually I still worry somewhat to be honest.

Just to be clear. I have this "lock ring" which it is apparently called and the smallest cog. The splines of the freehub as it is called are torn. Metal has been torn of the edges of the splines and stick out through the inner edge of the 2nd cog. I can't visually verify this but it might be bend so that it locks the outer cog rings in place.
What does it mean if these splines are torn anyway? Remember, it required force to loosen the lockring, something apparently not required during normal servicing of the cassette as videos have told me.
If I compare my newly bought cassette (same brand and model) then the torn metal splines are indeed not part of the cassette piece/part. So this should be the freehub?
It's made of metal anyway, and on google images the freehub is a plastic part, but I'm not experienced so this may differ.

I can't pull of the other cogs, my bet not even with a gun to my head.
I tried hammering on them front different directions. Tried to peel it off but that didn't work either.
I put some penetrating oil in between the freehub splines and the cog rings and I have yet to see if that is gonna work.
The cassette is also quite old and rusty and should have been replaced a long time ago. Maybe it's just gotten shut through wear and tear over the year(s) of not being serviced.

Just saying to let you and thy know...

The new cassette indeed comes with a plastic inner tube by the way.
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Old 03-04-18, 08:35 AM
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Visit a bike shop, should be a $5 job. Co op in your area? If you brought it by the one I volunteer at, we would do it no charge.

Without pictures, I can't diagnose. Say hi to 8 new members and you are up to ten.
Lock rings don't just easily slip off, they are put on tight, really tight. Assume you are using a chain whip too?


Want a forum where you get instant free solutions without participating first? Not sure it exists. I've never seen it.

My guess is your cassette has dug into the splines of the free hub and needs to be rotated slightly to free it up. Then encourage it off. If the free hub is truly damaged, and the cassette is old and rusty, myself, I am just pulling the free hub and replacing it.

Last edited by wrk101; 03-04-18 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 03-04-18, 08:55 AM
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@wrk101

yes! Rotating it a bit freed it up. there are cuts into the splines of the freehub across the whole length. Many, many, many of them. So many of them I don't know whether it's damage or normal. But it looks like something cut through it.
I'm sure it got stuck on them. I greased it and put my new cassette on. If the state of the freehub is worrying then please tell me.

Glad it's ok now.
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Old 03-04-18, 09:47 AM
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Freehubs are relatively cheap and easy to replace if you hve a standard shimano hub.

https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...RoCd_sQAvD_BwE
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Old 03-04-18, 10:43 AM
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Older cassettes , uniglide, the high gear screwed on, 2 chain whips needed , like to take cogs off a freewheel body.

big ones splined smallest is threaded.
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Old 03-04-18, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BikerHikes View Post
I never removed a cassette before. I watched a video on youtube. The tutor on youtube said it should come of easily or as in "shouldn't be to hard or stiff"
It should require a significant amount of force. Those lockrings are supposed to be cinched down tight when installed. They won't generally be as stubborn as an old freewheel, but they won't break free easily, either.

Be mindful that anyone can post YouTube tutorials. Some are great, some are horribly inaccurate, and others are somewhere in between. Try to stick to instructions or tutorials from reputable sources. Park Tool has great instructions on their web site. Sheldon Brown's web site has lots of good info. A number of well-known bike shops like Art's Cyclery have tutorial videos on YouTube.

Originally Posted by BikerHikes View Post
...the cassette did not come of, rather a top ring came of and the first cog on the cassette...
Sounds normal so far. The "top ring" is the cassette's lockring. On its backside, you may notice notches or knurling to help keep it in place when you snug it down. You may feel a bit of a ratcheting sensation when installing or removing the lockring.

Originally Posted by BikerHikes View Post
...The splines of the freehub as it is called are torn. Metal has been torn of the edges of the splines and stick out through the inner edge of the 2nd cog. I can't visually verify this but it might be bend so that it locks the outer cog rings in place...
Based on this and the follow-up posts above, it sounds like the cassette cogs dug into the freehub body. This is particularly common with aluminum freehub bodies. (Some are steel, some are aluminum.) If the splines are significantly damaged, you can likely replace the freehub. You'll need to identify what kind of hub you have to source a replacement.

Last edited by SkyDog75; 03-04-18 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 03-04-18, 05:22 PM
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You can complain about not being able to post pictures, but it's all up to you to identify the hub.
That may allow US to post a pic/pdf of what you should expect.
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Old 03-04-18, 10:56 PM
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You may be talking about the cassette digging in to the freehub

& making gouges, sometimes making it hard to remove the cassette.

This is common-normal. If it gets too bad, the freehub can be replaced. Keeping the lockring tight helps to minimize this happening.

Filing down the raised bits is fine & makes the new cassette go on easier.
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