cyclingarri

Every thing has been taken off, new bearings, new cables cut, cleaned, lubed, greased and ready to be put back on. Now I did an awesome job taking this apart, ow I've never put a bike back together. Where do I start, I mean literally? Is there a certain order I want to be doing this? Tips and Tricks seriously appreciated.

trailangel

Put the fork on first and then the chainset.

FBinNY 

Everyone has their own way. Mine is to start with the big (harder or more involved) and work to the small. So fork ot BB and cranks first, the other second, then bars and stem, and then derailleurs and brakes.

Phloom

I don't do a complete tear down unless I am planning to paint. I just work on one area at a time starting with the bottom bracket because it is the hardest and needs the most attention.

alcjphil

That would make sense to me as well since you can't install the front brake or the bar and stem until the fork is in place and you can't position the front derailleur until the crank has been installed.

sunburst

Cyclingarri,

I like to approach it like you did. My favorite restorations have all been that way. I after I strip it, I clean and polish the frame, clean polish and lube all components, then enjoy the rebuild step by step.

BTW, worked on a beater UO-18 most of the afternoon (two more Peugeots came into my life this week!). I had some modern(ish) wheels so I cold-set the frame to 130mm on my first attempt. Hope to finish tomorrow.

canamdad

I have a bike stand so I always put the seat post in first so the bike is held in the stand while I put on the rest of the components.

kjm6721

Just got a Peugeot P16 today. Trying to get some information and history to determine if it is worth replacing tubes to use.

Aubergine 

Do you mean replacing the frame tubes?

kjm6721

Just tubes and maybe tires.

Aubergine 

Ah well then! Yes, those old Peugeots benefit from good new tires and tubes. Peugeot made great bikes, even at the lower end. I have three now, all “cheap”, but I love riding them.

HillRider

That depends on the condition of the rest of the bike. If the frame is solid (no serious rust or cracks) and the wheels and drivetrain usable, by all means give it new tubes and maybe new tires and brake pads. Then lube the chain and give it a try.

_ForceD_

From Park Tool website...a listing, or order, in which to sensibly (re)assemble a bike.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...-bike-assembly

Dan

Ghrumpy

Not a bad list and generally in a good order. I would only add/amend a few points:

-I also start with the seatpost, so I can clamp that in the stand. I don't worry about making it straight until the bike is done and ready to be test-ridden.
-After installing the wheels, but before adjusting the brakes, take the bike out of the stand and set it on the floor. Open the QRs/loosen the wheel nuts and let the axles settle into the dropouts, then close them and proceed. It sucks to do your brake and rear derailleur adjustments only to discover the wheels were slightly crooked in the frame.

-Before doing the final adjusting of a threaded headset, it's best to insert the stem and secure it, as that can affect the bearing adjustment.
-It's bad practice generally to use the front wheel as a lever to do anything, you can actually misalign a steel fork that way. It's unlikely that you'll cause the fork to go out of alignment just by using the wheel as a lever when tightening the headset top nut, but you might if you try to straighten the stem without loosening the expander bolt first. Good practice to use the handlebar/stem as a lever when tightening the top nut instead of the wheel. And this also insures it's not going to affect the adjustment as noted above.
-Therefore, my in-the-stand preliminary headset adjustment is deliberately a tiny bit loose, and I wait until the bike is otherwise completely built to do the final adjustment. I work up to final adjustment with the bounce test: Pick up the front of the bike a couple inches and drop it. It should not rattle or buzz when the headset is properly adjusted.

kjm6721

The bike appears to be in good shape other than the tires/tubes. Not sure how to tell if the drive train is usable. I think it was mostly in a garage and not ridden much. Thanks for the information. I like to ride but don't know very much about bikes.

kjm6721

I'm going to give it a try. Got to find a bike shop near me to get the tires/tubs and have them put on. I'm not ready to tackle putting them on myself. Thanks for responding. I was having trouble finding info on this bike.

cyclingarri

Peugeot P6 AND P16 ladies mixte frame also named Iseran in 1986. I have 2 of these bikes 1985 and 1986 they are awesome. Helicomatic 6 speed freewheel is gonna be like an alien invaded your LBS hardly any new generation mechanics know how or even have tools to service. The original rims are rigida with eyelets and hex head nipples which are rare to see nowadays. I got 2x new kenda gum wall tires 2x inner tubes and 2x rim strips for less than $40.00 with free shipping! Since I bought the 1986 Iseran for only $24.99 i splurged and bought vintage toe cages and straps, new handlebar wrap,and peugeot checkard print tire valve caps for an additional $28.00. Bike is awesome!!

02Giant 

You can't install tires and tubes but plan to setup the remainder of the bike?

Ghrumpy

Yeah, that's kinda like jumping off the high dive before you've had swimming lessons.