Panel beating help
 

I started tidying this thing up with good components from scrap bikes, thought it would make an excellent general purpose bike, it's a Giant Yukon aluminum frame. then realized it's bent!
Hard to picture the wheel is on straight at the bottom stays, but it is, if you notice you'll see the rear wheel is inline with the down tube.
Looks like the seat tube is bent to the left, so's the tail, the bottom left dropout is on an angle too, also there's more gap on the left side of the brakes

worth fixing? can it be straightened without damaging the paint too much? if so what's a good method?

ok, forgotten how to post a pic, don't have PB. bear with me

Aluminum frames don't respond to bending pressures with a new set very well, unlike steel or Ti frames which do.
Applying enough force to reset an aluminum frame runs a much higher risk of weld failures or other cracks. Just
as well you don't have PB, you would probably have lost anything you put on it.

Might be best just to try the bike and see how it rides as is. If it doesn't pull to the side or have shifting
or chain line problems, just go with it.

Aluminum frame , likely solution heat treated once welded together, so its live with it as is, or scrap it.

I figured if the damage didn't cause any cracks or broken welds it might be fixable?

yeah, can't use PB anymore

can anyone direct me to a thread on how to post a pic through your computer files [or where ever]?

Without pics it's impossible to determine.

Before attempting to assess the frame alignment by looking at the wheel, you should make sure the rim is centered properly. Your alignment can only be as accurate as your reference point.

If the frame is actually bent, then as [MENTION=197614]fietsbob[/MENTION] said, the aluminum used in bike frames is heat-treated to a hardness level, and doesn't like to be bent, much less bent twice. It may not crack straightaway, but cold-setting will accelerate the fatiguing of the metal and cause it to crack sooner or later. You could theoretically anneal the frame, straighten it, and heat-treat it again. But you could probably buy a new frame or two for what that would cost.

you need a 3rd party image host , avoid photo bucket. that your PB? lots of those are DNF.

You have nothing to loose. I agree that if it got bent without kinking then it is possible for it to get straightened without kinking. I just straightened out my handlebars with the same philosophy. If you do happen to kink it, then you have only lost time and gained some knowledge.

Better IMHO not to lose time and/or teeth, and start with knowledge. It's not like this situation is breaking new ground.

Anyway it's not a matter of being able to straighten it. It's a matter of what happens next.

Yep, used to use Photo bucket, Fiets

TinyPic test..

http://i67.tinypic.com/iw2j4j.jpg


I think the shade attracted me more than anything, metallic yellow would have to be my favourite colour :0
The fella i got it off gave away a stack off bikes, loaded the trailer, said that particular one just needed cables, said nothing about a ding! but can't complain about the price!

"Might be best just to try the bike and see how it rides as is. If it doesn't pull to the side or have shifting
or chain line problems, just go with it."

That should be fine...The only issue i could see is the brake pad spacing, a spacer could be used i suppose
but i don't want to continue with the project knowing that it's bent... i'd rather see if i can straightened it

& Judging by the tech advice given it's probably best to scrap it

Having said what i said, i'll strip it & carefully try to adjust one day, it's out of alignment about 1/4" by the looks

Can't tell from the photo whether the seat tube and head tube are lined up. The rear wheel should line up with both of them.

Are you quite certain the rear axle is fully seated in the dropouts on both sides?

I can tell..the seat tube leans to the left :-)

It's hard to take a photo to get the angle right resting on the kick stand, i took three shots, posted the best one

Yep.. tightened on by skewers, i wanted it perfectly centred on the bottom stays [correct word?], that's when i noticed the rest is deformed, if i wanted the wheel centred at the top it would rub on the bottom

First i thought it was a manufactures fault, but nahh.. in my experience Giant make a good thing

If general use is making it a low speed around town bike, then it might not be a problem. If general use is careening down trails, then you may want to move on. I suspect that there are a lot of mis-aligned beach cruisers being ridden daily.

If it is more aesthetics/brake alignment, you could probably file the drive side dropout slightly deeper to find a happy medium that would not be noticeable.

John

Beautiful color
 

Love that color!

My first instinct would be to check all of the alignments, but then again, I've got all of the Park frame tools to do this. From the looks of the photos, it looks to me like your rear dropouts are out of alignment. The Park FFG-2 would be able to tell you in a hurry where you are with this. Aluminum can take a minor tweaking, but be careful if your rear dropouts are cast.

As to inserting images from BF: Click on Go Advanced, and when ready to add an image just click on the paperclip that is on the 1st row of editing icons. For an image on the computer click on Browse, navigate to the image and double-click on it. Repeat if more than one image and then click on Upload.

Yeah, mine too, at first i thought it was like some of those dual suspension hardtail types that are a bit out of whack, i talked myself into it that it's normal, & it will be OK :(

The yellow must have hypnotized me or something :foo:

Thx, Cny
I'm doing another project, might do a piccy test

using parts off the Giant, but it's 700c wheels, which is probably better suited for me

BF? gee, where's 'go advanced'? i need baby steps instructions!:crash:

..

ahha

Has bolts on this bike i'm not sure of?

two bolts just under the rear brake..

has a chain hanger which is cool

the headset's done and i noticed these bolts either side of the forks, must be for a carrier or something

and there's something behind the head tube