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1986 Schwinn Peloton bottom bracket servicing?

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1986 Schwinn Peloton bottom bracket servicing?

Old 05-15-18, 12:10 PM
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1986 Schwinn Peloton bottom bracket servicing?

Recently purchased a barely ridden 1986 61cm Schwinn Peloton in excellent condition. I was thinking about servicing the bottom bracket bearings etc since I am sure it has never been done. I am mechanical inclined and have a small shop/man cave. I can’t help but think that after 32 years this bike could use this service. Does anyone think I could still get new bearings if needed. I would like to replace them with the bike in this great condition. It rides excellent, no issues. Am I headed down the right road? Thoughts, suggestions....I think it’s time for new grease.
Added clipless pedals yesterday.
Here’s the bike-





Last edited by Patriot1; 05-15-18 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 05-15-18, 12:22 PM
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Assuming everything else is in good order, is probably 1/4” bearings, probably caged. A lot of people ditch the cage and add 2 more loose bearings going back together. Or you could use a cartridge style Shimano UN55 or equivalent (requires special driver). Simple either way, can YouTube or check Sheldon Brown’s site for assistance if needed.
Beautiful bike!
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Old 05-15-18, 01:05 PM
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Chances are it needs nothing other than cleaning out the bearings (ALL of them, the hubs and headset too) and new grease. I prefer Phil's.
Those bearings will last a lifetime if properly serviced once in a while, no need to replace them.
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Old 05-15-18, 01:07 PM
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Maybe check the condition of the existing bearings first?
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Old 05-15-18, 01:17 PM
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With a bike in that condition, only thing that could cause the bearings to need replacing is some water somehow got in and it's been sitting too long but chances of that are low. If you don't have the special tools, after removing the left crank, you should be able to knock the lock ring off with a large screw flat screwdriver and using a hole-punch tap the bearing cap around using the holes. Leave the drive side bearing cup in place and clean it with a rag on a stick (unless the bearings come out rusty/worn in which case you want to remove the cup and inspect).
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Old 05-15-18, 02:05 PM
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When not used regularly, older greases would separate, the oil either seeping or evaporating, leaving behind (basically) soap. So along with others I highly recommend cleaning and repacking all the bearing assemblies. New bearings should not be needed but feel free to replace them if you wish. Use Grade 25 balls in those parts.

I just as highly recommend you NOT use Phil Wood grease, (or for that matter any grease that has color, whether it be black or red or blue or green,) on a white or light-colored bike. The dye seeps out and stains white paint. (This is not theoretical! A friend stained the paint on his white bike BITD by using Phil grease, and I myself stained a white bike by using some red Pedro's grease.)

Use a clear or white synthetic grease. Besides not staining, they give a more obvious indication of contamination than dark-colored greases, and synthetic greases do not separate as readily as older ones. It's as good as it needs to be for the application. Heavy waterproof greases like Phil or Park Tool (or, God forbid, trailer hub grease, the worst) are fine for harsh environments but not at all necessary for regular or even heavy duty use in environments where water exposure is not a big issue.
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Old 05-15-18, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghrumpy View Post
When not used regularly, older greases would separate, the oil either seeping or evaporating, leaving behind (basically) soap. So along with others I highly recommend cleaning and repacking all the bearing assemblies. New bearings should not be needed but feel free to replace them if you wish. Use Grade 25 balls in those parts.

I just as highly recommend you NOT use Phil Wood grease, (or for that matter any grease that has color, whether it be black or red or blue or green,) on a white or light-colored bike. The dye seeps out and stains white paint. (This is not theoretical! A friend stained the paint on his white bike BITD by using Phil grease, and I myself stained a white bike by using some red Pedro's grease.)

Use a clear or white synthetic grease. Besides not staining, they give a more obvious indication of contamination than dark-colored greases, and synthetic greases do not separate as readily as older ones. It's as good as it needs to be for the application. Heavy waterproof greases like Phil or Park Tool (or, God forbid, trailer hub grease, the worst) are fine for harsh environments but not at all necessary for regular or even heavy duty use in environments where water exposure is not a big issue.
Thank you...excellent info especially not staining the bikes paint.


Last edited by Patriot1; 05-15-18 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 05-15-18, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by AnkleWork View Post
Maybe check the condition of the existing bearings first?
I will. My thoughts are that as cheap as bearings are just replace in them all.

Thanks!

Last edited by Patriot1; 05-15-18 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 05-15-18, 02:41 PM
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Thanks Gents, I appreciate all the replies and the wisdom passed on.
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Old 05-15-18, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Patriot1 View Post


I will. My thoughts are that as cheap as bearings are just replace in them all.

Thanks!
According to the catalog, the wheel bearings are sealed cartridges, and will almost certainly not need service. The BB and headset were their companies' top of the line components, so the ball bearings in them would already be high grade. I would not bother replacing them with anything other than Grade 25 balls. Which are not as cheap as bearings can be. But replacing them with standard Grade 200 balls, even new ones, would be a downgrade.
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Old 05-15-18, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghrumpy View Post
According to the catalog, the wheel bearings are sealed cartridges, and will almost certainly not need service. The BB and headset were their companies' top of the line components, so the ball bearings in them would already be high grade. I would not bother replacing them with anything other than Grade 25 balls. Which are not as cheap as bearings can be. But replacing them with standard Grade 200 balls, even new ones, would be a downgrade.
Thank you, this is very helpful. Maybe just a cleaning and good synthetic grease would be perfect.
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Old 05-15-18, 03:15 PM
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Nice bike. Looks like the tires need replacing--that gum wall looks nasty. Too bad you messed it up by putting clipless on it. Kinda' like putting disc wheels on a Model T.
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Old 05-15-18, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghrumpy View Post
According to the catalog, the wheel bearings are sealed cartridges, and will almost certainly not need service. The BB and headset were their companies' top of the line components, so the ball bearings in them would already be high grade. I would not bother replacing them with anything other than Grade 25 balls. Which are not as cheap as bearings can be. But replacing them with standard Grade 200 balls, even new ones, would be a downgrade.
Another note, on the work in progress
I have on order (3) new Hutchinson Tempo gum wall tubulars 700 X 21 and plenty of Tufo tape, not glue for a number reasons.
Once I check and lube the BB and headset bearings and replace all cables I look forward to riding!

The stock saddle goes in storage with the toe clips. And the SA X2 aka “comfy” goes on.




Last edited by Patriot1; 05-15-18 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 05-15-18, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Patriot1 View Post


Thank you, this is very helpful. Maybe just a cleaning and good synthetic grease would be perfect.

Yes, it's crystal clear.

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Old 05-15-18, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
Yes, it's crystal clear.

"
Thank you SquidPuppet...perfect! Ordered a tub!

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Old 05-15-18, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Patriot1 View Post


Thank you SquidPuppet...perfect!
You are welcome. Looks like ice, nice and tacky, and no foul odor.
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Old 05-25-18, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghrumpy View Post
According to the catalog, the wheel bearings are sealed cartridges, and will almost certainly not need service. The BB and headset were their companies' top of the line components, so the ball bearings in them would already be high grade. I would not bother replacing them with anything other than Grade 25 balls. Which are not as cheap as bearings can be. But replacing them with standard Grade 200 balls, even new ones, would be a downgrade.
@Ghrunpy and @SquidPuppet - I found a good “vintage” bicycle mechanic and he opened up the bottom bracket and serviced it. There was still a small amount of factory grease on the bearings still coated, and they looked brand new. He cleaned both bearings and gave them a good coat of white lightning bearing grease. A good coating on the racers and back together it went. Smooth as butter. Hope to get a ride in if the rain would hold off and things dry out.
Thank you again for the pointers!
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Old 05-25-18, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Patriot1 View Post
Smooth as butter.
Glad it all worked out. The feeling of a loose ball bearing freshly greased and perfectly adjusted is great. The modern world can have their cartridges, give me cup 'n cone.
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Old 05-25-18, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Patriot1 View Post


@Ghrunpy and @SquidPuppet - I found a good “vintage” bicycle mechanic and he opened up the bottom bracket and serviced it. There was still a small amount of factory grease on the bearings still coated, and they looked brand new. He cleaned both bearings and gave them a good coat of white lightning bearing grease. A good coating on the racers and back together it went. Smooth as butter. Hope to get a ride in if the rain would hold off and things dry out.
Thank you again for the pointers!
Excellent!
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