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Parks hacksaw - good?

Old 05-20-18, 11:25 AM
  #26  
UniChris
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Originally Posted by Iride01 View Post
Um, no what? After over 50 years using a hacksaw that worked well for me I have to get a more expensive one?
The point was you were recommending the purchase of garbage that was barely cheaper than a good solution. One can make do, but the difference in usability is huge, for a very small amount of money. There are places to economize, and there are places to buy the right thing the first time.

you did realize the power band saw was more humor than a serious suggestion, didn't you?
If I still had my 4x6 tilter, probably 3/4 of what I do with a hacksaw I'd do on the bandsaw (or even the lathe...) Better results at less effort.

But living in an apartment, or doing things in an office? Sure, a good hacksaw.
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Old 05-20-18, 11:52 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by UniChris View Post
The point was you were recommending the purchase of garbage that was barely cheaper than a good solution. One can make do, but the difference in usability is huge, for a very small amount of money. There are places to economize, and there are places to buy the right thing the first time.
It's still a valid consideration. Throw away is our society. I sometimes buy cheapo 10 dollar spray guns to use with epoxy and other two part curing paints. I can just throw them away between coats and not have to worry with the time of properly cleaning my 200 plus dollar spray gun. The results are more than acceptable considering the use for the part. Time is money, and sometimes the care of an expensive tool isn't worth the simple cost of one time use stuff. It's also more cost effective for employees you will never teach to care for expensive tools that require more than just putting away in a tool box.

Originally Posted by UniChris View Post
If I still had my 4x6 tilter, probably 3/4 of what I do with a hacksaw I'd do on the bandsaw (or even the lathe...) Better results at less effort. But living in an apartment, or doing things in an office? Sure, a good hacksaw.
What does that mean? How does that relate to what you quoted? Or do you think that the original reference to a hand held power band saw was serious. Maybe so..... The author of that will have to tell us. I thought it funny when viewed with the way the topic is skewing.

But how do you know what the OP wants to cut will even chuck up in a lathe. Or can be held in the vise on your tilt floor mounted band saw (that was what 4x6 tilter meant?). Might be overkill for the OP.

Just state your opinions and quit quoting me as if my opinions are completely wrong. We don't all require the same stuff from every tool in our tool box as another does.

So some of us can sometimes get by with a cheapo harbor freight. Other times we cant. I consider how often I'm going to use or need a tool when I buy. I'm not paying for quality I don't need. Especially for a one or two use item.

Last edited by Iride01; 05-20-18 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 05-20-18, 12:00 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Iride01 View Post
It's still a valid consideration. Throw away is our society. I sometimes buy cheapo 10 dollar spray guns to use with epoxy and other two part curing paints. I can just throw them away between coats and not have to worry with the time of properly cleaning my 200 plus dollar spray gun. The results are more than acceptable considering the use for the part. Time is money, and sometimes the care of an expensive tool isn't worth the simple cost of one time use stuff. It's also more cost effective for employees you will never teach to care for expensive tools that require more than just putting away in a tool box.
For something that will be damaged by use or mis-use, sure. But good hacksaw frames endure more than the cheap ones, and they aren't really harmed by paint.

You also don't loose the blade holder bits the way the stamped ones tend to if you store them without a blade in them.

But how do you know what the OP wants to cut will even chuck up in a lathe. Or can be held in the vise on your tilt floor mounted band saw (that was what 4x6 tilter meant?). Might be overkill for the OP.
Hence the quarter of what I use a hacksaw for that I'd chose a hacksaw for even if I still had a fixed bandsaw available.

My guess however is that a hacksaw would yield better results than the portable version of the band saw, as it's going to be easier to control. Or would be if it was one with a frame that didn't twist.
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Old 05-20-18, 12:03 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by UniChris View Post
Band saws are slow and have limited capacity - that portable one would be an exercise in frustration for anything large. I used to have a 4x6" tilting one, and while I did saw through a 3.5-inch cast iron bar with it, it took the better part of an hour and didn't cut it remotely straight. I couldn't imagine trying to hold a portable one in position long enough to do that (also induction motors are much quieter than universal motors). In comparison, the serious cutoff bandsaw you'll find at a metals vendor or large machine shop is a huge piece of equipment, not just from the capacity but to keep the blade aligned - same issue as with flexy stamped hacksaw frames really, but magnified. Unless there's a definite need for the portable, the small tilting one is a better investment, and there are plenty of articles on improving them.
Agree. Today, for large cuts one might use a torch (for the i-beams) or a waterjet (for shapes in thick plate). The portable bandsaw is for lighter duty on-site work. Like cutting grating material to fit in a sump in a driveway.

Also, horizontal bandsaws are routinely used for cutting off stock. They can get very complicated and costly.

See here: https://wfwells.com/wp-content/uploa...nt-300x274.jpg

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Old 05-20-18, 12:08 PM
  #30  
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@UniChris Okay....... I think we've gone far beyond what the OP want's to know. Do we need to piss some more? You're not understanding at all the context of my original post. The discussion we are having is meaningless with no specific aim.

If you claim that your way is the only way, then that is your opinion. I think there are almost always multiple acceptable solutions.
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Old 05-20-18, 12:27 PM
  #31  
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Speaking of context, the OP was contemplating a $27 tool. Its non-branded functional equivalent is available for $12. Junk is available for $5.

It's not about handle comfort or durability, to anyone who has actually used both, the difference in actual sawing resulting from the tension the $12 and the $5 can put on the blade is immense.

While the difference between the $27 and the $12 will likely not be detectable.

Last edited by UniChris; 05-20-18 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 05-20-18, 12:55 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by wingless View Post
... The Lenox Customer Service department will be contacted during business hours to determine why this is a problem. The information gleaned from that conversation will be posted.
also, please ask if I store less than the suggested blades in the backbone, will they rattle when I saw. I have no patience for a rattling saw. thanks in advance.

FWIW: I also ordered the Parks saw just to spite the naysayers and will return the one which I like least.

carry on; you guys have the ball so run with it!
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Old 05-20-18, 01:47 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by southpier View Post
also, please ask if I store less than the suggested blades in the backbone, will they rattle when I saw. I have no patience for a rattling saw. thanks in advance.
That was easy enough to test, no need to wait for Lenox Customer Service working hours.

The saw is dead silent when used partially loaded w/ blades. The saw has a noise cancelling function, w/ a USB cable to charge the battery, like a Bose headphone, to eliminate the rattling sound and to quiet the noise when cutting. It needs to be charged to work.

So much for dripping sarcasm... (use a paper towel to mop up those sarcasm drips)

Yes, the internal blades make a rattling noise when stored within the extra blade cavity. My observations were that rattling noise existed when shaken w/ one, two or three blade. I was unable to create noise when shaking w/ four or five blades.

The thumb screw is positioned to squeeze the tip of the stored blade, not to gate the opening shut.
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Old 05-20-18, 01:53 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Iride01 View Post
The three frames I have look similar to this. Two were my Dad's so they are as old or older than me.
Some of my favorite tools were inherited from my now-passed father. I treasure these tools and always think of him during usage.
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Old 05-21-18, 06:30 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Iride01 View Post
@WizardOfBoz oooooooo Powertools........ now your talking. Just like bikes, you need lots of them.

I wonder how heavy a bike with eight inch I-beams will be for top, seat and down tubes.... er... girders?
This is an opportunity! You could be the first to find out. Although, given the wide variety of materials people have used in bike construction, maybe a girder bike has already been done...
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Old 05-21-18, 08:11 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by wingless View Post
My attempt at fitting a standard reciprocating saw blade, as-shown on the manufacturer's images, were not successful so I went to the manufacturer's web site. In the User Reviews section, I found another user was also unable to get that blade to fit as-shown. Right now there doesn't appear to be any way to secure the reciprocating saw blade into the opening.

Another issue identified in the User Reviews section was that there were other users who had broken the retention mechanism, from over tightening the knob. One user states that proper retention is when the knob is 12 turns tight from loose. An image is attached of the broken part, that fails when the mechanism is over tightened.
Originally Posted by UniChris View Post
But the screw used there is too large to fit the hole in the blades people are trying to use.

A little searching will show that the body of the screw on a sawzall doesn't actually go through the hole - only a divot or pilot on the end does. Maybe the screw lacks that. If you can figure out the screw size perhaps you can get another one and file it to fit, though in mild steel it may not last.

Or maybe it needs a special blade.
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
The screw diameter is large and the reciprocating saw blade hole is small.

The width of the blade is narrow and the opening is wide. Even if the screw retained the blade, because of these width differences the blade would be arcing up and down during usage, pivoting on the screw. The blade should NOT swing up and down during usage.

One of the images in my reply shows the Lenox reciprocating saw blade. An observation shows the Lenox blade and the Milwaukee reciprocating blades have identical ends.

The Lenox Customer Service department will be contacted during business hours to determine why this is a problem. The information gleaned from that conversation will be posted.
The Lenox customer service department was contacted to discuss these questions / concerns.

They informed me that the standard reciprocating saw blade is inserted into the opening. It is retained by using a screwdriver in the thumbscrew slots to mash the blade in the cavity.

My concerns about the absence of mechanical features to restrain the blade from arcing and to properly secure the blade were noted by the agent for feedback to the product design engineers.

They confirmed that the correct blade tightening instructions are 12 turns maximum, from when the slack is removed. This instruction ambiguity was noted also for feedback to update the documentation.
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Old 05-23-18, 05:48 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz View Post
This is an opportunity! You could be the first to find out. Although, given the wide variety of materials people have used in bike construction, maybe a girder bike has already been done...
not solid girders, but flippin' cool nonetheless: the Bugatti revue, 14-2, Bugatti bicycles

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Old 05-23-18, 05:56 PM
  #38  
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postscript: I received both the lennox & parks hacksaws. the lennox is a tank, much the same as my tried & true Klein which lives in the bottom drawer of my shop toolbox.
since I want the new saw for a bag which will permanently reside in the van, I am keeping it for its lightness of being, and blue finish.
amazon wants to give me about 75% of the purchase price as credit on the lennox, so 22 minus whatever amounts to 16 & change. the landscaper I use helped me this morning for a few minutes and refused the 30 bucks I tried to shove in his pocket. so I went to the van and pulled out the lennox, which, by now, i'm sure everyone will remember was on its way back to the ups store. he was very grateful to have such a magical, Excaliber-esque piece of cutlery.

so I guess that wraps up the whole saw. saga.story. whatever . . .
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Old 05-24-18, 09:02 AM
  #39  
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Glad it worked out.

What saw(s) are now part of your tool set? Have they been used? What are the impressions of the tools?
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