What solvent to use for chain cleaning
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i've been fortunate enough to find a lot of brand new never opened kmc chains that makes it not cost effective to clean the chain for the time being. Labor + parts = time + money, so for the amount of time it'd take to clean it to my likings, I'll swap it out when I deem it in need of cleaning or servicing.
My past methods of cleaning were an array ways that ranged from a hot transmission oil bath in a supersonic agitator bin, to using a sealed, yet not air tight, container using a filtered concoction of diesel based solution fed thru a pump spraying across the chain. After being hung dried, I'd wipe the chain down using a teflon enhanced dry lube.
Worked ok, but nothing beats a fresh chain that's reassuring my ride will not be abruptly halted by a failed chain or clicking/slipping worn chain.... or just a noisy slap from a link or few.
My past methods of cleaning were an array ways that ranged from a hot transmission oil bath in a supersonic agitator bin, to using a sealed, yet not air tight, container using a filtered concoction of diesel based solution fed thru a pump spraying across the chain. After being hung dried, I'd wipe the chain down using a teflon enhanced dry lube.
Worked ok, but nothing beats a fresh chain that's reassuring my ride will not be abruptly halted by a failed chain or clicking/slipping worn chain.... or just a noisy slap from a link or few.
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I usually avoid chain care threads, but what the heck. I wipe, relube, wipe, relube, times n then replace the chain, but sometimes I remove the chain and throw it in an ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green solution, then lube. I used to use a variety of concoctions for lube but have stuck with Chain-L for the past two years.
To answer the OP, whenever I remove a chain for cleaning in the ultrasonic cleaner, I first shake it up in a plastic jug with some mineral spirits. I reuse the mineral spirits by letting it settle and then decanting into another jug for the next use. Citrus cleaner works ok too, but not quite as well.
Pay attention to the advice laid out by@cyccommute. He knows what he is talking about.
To answer the OP, whenever I remove a chain for cleaning in the ultrasonic cleaner, I first shake it up in a plastic jug with some mineral spirits. I reuse the mineral spirits by letting it settle and then decanting into another jug for the next use. Citrus cleaner works ok too, but not quite as well.
Pay attention to the advice laid out by@cyccommute. He knows what he is talking about.
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The only time that my chains really get nasty is in the winter, commuting on salted roads, and I admit that I haven't found a great solution for that problem yet. To compound the problem, my work area is pretty unpleasant during the winter, so I probably don't attend to maintenance as well as I should.
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A jar of diesel-gasoline mix is for me (thanks to my wife i have a full tank of this mixture.. 50L with 30L diesel, 20L gasoline).. works decent, the diesel provides some kind of lubing. I do this for my mtb and road bikes or any bike with a quick-link. And apply plenty of lube and wipe the excess afterwards.
While the diesel drops the flashpoint of gasoline, it still doesn't drop it enough. Gasoline is toxic and dangerous to work with. It's flashpoint...the temperature at which a particular organic compound gives off sufficient vapor to ignite in air...is -40°F. That means that on even the coldest days, it can ignite. It's just not worth dealing with.
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The only time that my chains really get nasty is in the winter, commuting on salted roads, and I admit that I haven't found a great solution for that problem yet. To compound the problem, my work area is pretty unpleasant during the winter, so I probably don't attend to maintenance as well as I should.
I've taken to using KMC ECO PROTEQ chains to cut down on the chain rusting due to winter salt. The protective coating keeps the chain from rusting due to the salt.
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#32
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I've read enough warnings about gasoline to know that it's really stupid, and I won't even try it. There is so much risk and so little reward. Even if you think the risk is low enough for you, there is no compelling reason whatsoever to prefer it.
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Don't. Just don't.
While the diesel drops the flashpoint of gasoline, it still doesn't drop it enough. Gasoline is toxic and dangerous to work with. It's flashpoint...the temperature at which a particular organic compound gives off sufficient vapor to ignite in air...is -40°F. That means that on even the coldest days, it can ignite. It's just not worth dealing with.
While the diesel drops the flashpoint of gasoline, it still doesn't drop it enough. Gasoline is toxic and dangerous to work with. It's flashpoint...the temperature at which a particular organic compound gives off sufficient vapor to ignite in air...is -40°F. That means that on even the coldest days, it can ignite. It's just not worth dealing with.
Yet with care and knowledge many things can be safely manipulated. I would not recommend anyone to mess with anything if they are not comfortable doing so (and knowledgeable and disciplined as well). So i work fairly often with gasoline and other combustible substances and feel very comfortable about working with such substances for dipping a chain in a jar. More dangerous stuff is when measuring the RON and MON of gasoline in direct fashion. (compress a chamber with vapor until it detonates. Final pressure and temperature before self combustion is a direct indication for MON and RON).
There are several takes on dangerous materials: Post a big scarecrow in front so anyone will hear will run away (like asbestos.. yet back in the day was used everywhere without much care). A very good strategy to stop clueless people engaging in a process that is above their head and may have not enough knowledge what to do or don't when manipulating certain materials. And after learning do-s and don't-s, manipulating dangerous materials can be made manageable (a lot of room for accidents, requires more attention not to create an accident but with proper precautions you can make a living by handling nitroglycerine all day in a factory and reach retirement alive with all limbs - this is done only with proper training and environment and tools and ... but it can be made "safely").
#34
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Thank you for concerns. They are valid enough for most users.
Yet with care and knowledge many things can be safely manipulated. I would not recommend anyone to mess with anything if they are not comfortable doing so (and knowledgeable and disciplined as well). So i work fairly often with gasoline and other combustible substances and feel very comfortable about working with such substances for dipping a chain in a jar. More dangerous stuff is when measuring the RON and MON of gasoline in direct fashion. (compress a chamber with vapor until it detonates. Final pressure and temperature before self combustion is a direct indication for MON and RON).
Yet with care and knowledge many things can be safely manipulated. I would not recommend anyone to mess with anything if they are not comfortable doing so (and knowledgeable and disciplined as well). So i work fairly often with gasoline and other combustible substances and feel very comfortable about working with such substances for dipping a chain in a jar. More dangerous stuff is when measuring the RON and MON of gasoline in direct fashion. (compress a chamber with vapor until it detonates. Final pressure and temperature before self combustion is a direct indication for MON and RON).
There are several takes on dangerous materials: Post a big scarecrow in front so anyone will hear will run away (like asbestos.. yet back in the day was used everywhere without much care). A very good strategy to stop clueless people engaging in a process that is above their head and may have not enough knowledge what to do or don't when manipulating certain materials. And after learning do-s and don't-s, manipulating dangerous materials can be made manageable (a lot of room for accidents, requires more attention not to create an accident but with proper precautions you can make a living by handling nitroglycerine all day in a factory and reach retirement alive with all limbs - this is done only with proper training and environment and tools and ... but it can be made "safely").
Take the lesson from asbestos. Yes, we used to use it everywhere without much care. Then we found out that wasn't a good idea because it caused more problems than it solved. So we stopped using it and started using other materials that are safer and, frankly, better without all the downsides.
The same can be said of using gasoline as a solvent. Yes, you might be able to use it but there are far better alternatives that are safer and easier to handle. Mineral spirits is still flammable but it takes a whole lot more to ignite it. You can still turn yourself into a human torch but it's a lot harder to do so.
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I work with mineral spirits as part of my job (both the odorless ("OMS") and non-odorless ("MS") kind). That doesn't make me the world's #1 expert on mineral spirits, but it does make me familiar with its properties. And being familiar with its properties, as well as its toxicity, there is no way in hell that I would use MS/OMS to clean my chains. Why use toxic substances when non-toxic substances will do the job? Even OMS, while less toxic than MS, is still toxic.
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If you have the chain off the bike you can use warm water and lots of white wash powder (laundry), a good soak, move it around in the water and maybe replace the soapy water and repeat if the chain is very grimy. Rinse off with clean warm water. It works surprisingly well, low cost and it's very little to worry about health wise. It will dry clean and ready for reapplication of dry lube.
I tend to use wet lubes, and if the chain gets to be a bit dirty, I use spray-can oil (TF2 Teflon oil), whipe off and do it a couple of times, it leaves the chain reasonably clean. Then I go back to Finish Line Ceramic Wet lube. It's easy and simple, but the spray-can oil cost a bit.
I tend to use wet lubes, and if the chain gets to be a bit dirty, I use spray-can oil (TF2 Teflon oil), whipe off and do it a couple of times, it leaves the chain reasonably clean. Then I go back to Finish Line Ceramic Wet lube. It's easy and simple, but the spray-can oil cost a bit.
#39
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Recently I did clean the chain out of the bike after some 600 miles.
Just sink into a bowl with minerals spirits and massage around. Repeat. Twice the color became pretty dark.
Dry on sun.
Put chain back and lube.
Very happy with outcome.
Just sink into a bowl with minerals spirits and massage around. Repeat. Twice the color became pretty dark.
Dry on sun.
Put chain back and lube.
Very happy with outcome.
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I work with mineral spirits as part of my job (both the odorless ("OMS") and non-odorless ("MS") kind). That doesn't make me the world's #1 expert on mineral spirits, but it does make me familiar with its properties. And being familiar with its properties, as well as its toxicity, there is no way in hell that I would use MS/OMS to clean my chains. Why use toxic substances when non-toxic substances will do the job? Even OMS, while less toxic than MS, is still toxic.
A bit longer of a post than I intended, sorry. The bottom line is that mineral spirits are not all that bad if you take proper precautions. I think it's more effective than citrus-based solvents and is recyclable. Make your own choice though, but make it wisely.
#41
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I rarely clean my chains. It's too much work. When I do, I use mineral spirits. But by the time I need to clean my chain, the chain is half worn, so I replace it. This is bad for the environment, but this is my one indulgence in waste. I'm very good at reducing, reusing, and recycling.
Sometimes I clean my bike with furniture polish in a can. It's a wax/water mixture. It can clean a slightly dirty chain but not a very dirty chain. I clean the cassette cogs with it, too, and I clean the jockey wheels, since the gunk there gets back on the chain.
I oil my chain with Chain L or some other heavy oil. It seems not to attract much dirt, and I don't have to apply it often. Thin lubricants such as ProLink require frequent application.
Sometimes I clean my bike with furniture polish in a can. It's a wax/water mixture. It can clean a slightly dirty chain but not a very dirty chain. I clean the cassette cogs with it, too, and I clean the jockey wheels, since the gunk there gets back on the chain.
I oil my chain with Chain L or some other heavy oil. It seems not to attract much dirt, and I don't have to apply it often. Thin lubricants such as ProLink require frequent application.
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99 cent store citrus degreaser. I have a finish line wheely brushy thingy that clips on the chain, but just spraying the stuff on an old rag works pretty well, working the chain back and forth. I save old Sonicare tooth brush heads and scrub in between links as needed. I use Finish Line dry lube too.
#43
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The "easy" way to eliminate most of the chain crud is dish soap in a heated ultrasonic cleaner. The soapy water gets black almost immediately. I repeat this step until the water stops getting black. This is fast and easy.
If waxing is the end result, then I put mineral spirits and the chain into a jar, then into the ultrasonic cleaner. I then repeat that step w/ denatured alcohol.
The internal and external chain parts are then very clean, ready for wax.
If waxing is the end result, then I put mineral spirits and the chain into a jar, then into the ultrasonic cleaner. I then repeat that step w/ denatured alcohol.
The internal and external chain parts are then very clean, ready for wax.
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#46
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I work with mineral spirits as part of my job (both the odorless ("OMS") and non-odorless ("MS") kind). That doesn't make me the world's #1 expert on mineral spirits, but it does make me familiar with its properties. And being familiar with its properties, as well as its toxicity, there is no way in hell that I would use MS/OMS to clean my chains. Why use toxic substances when non-toxic substances will do the job? Even OMS, while less toxic than MS, is still toxic.
They are dangerous if ingested most importantly because they can be aspired into the lungs. Inhalation of higher concentrations of Mineral Spirits can result in respiratory irritation or even pulmonary edema. The possibility of any severe health effects due to exposure to Mineral Spirits is remote under normal use but care should always be taken to protect skin and lungs where use is lengthy or extreme. It should be noted that outside the U.S., Mineral Spirits are generally called White Spirits.
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Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
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Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#47
Steel is real
any dirty chains i roll it up & soak in degreaser {automotive stuff i buy in 4 litre bottles] for a few hours in a small container, brush both sides
once i think it had enough i blow it off - compressed air, and she's clean as a whistle
plus it leaves an oily film, so can oil the chain properly any time it suits you when it's fitted to the bike
once i think it had enough i blow it off - compressed air, and she's clean as a whistle
plus it leaves an oily film, so can oil the chain properly any time it suits you when it's fitted to the bike
Last edited by le mans; 06-06-18 at 08:59 AM.
#48
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@SylvainG, our municipalities has us throw out metals separately, and I believe they get money for turning in the scrap metal, so I don't have to help the scrap collector unless I want to. It doesn't matter, either way. I'm happy for the town or city to get the money for it.
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