pkniland

Kontact 

At this point you either have a slight measuring error, or your frame and fork were set up for a JIS headset. Frame prep tools can be used to enlarge the headtube to 30.2 (and fork crown down from 27.0 JIS to 26.4 ISO), or you can buy a threaded JIS headset. But threadless are going to to be 30.2.

BTW, why do you want to replace the fork?

pkniland

I think it was a measuring error, its hard to get pictures with the caliper in the head tube. But when its fully extended its 30.16-30.20. The fork was bent and rusted. It looked to be beyond surface rust.

My plan is to go with this headset...

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...yABEgKNl_D_BwE

and this fork...

​​​​​​https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...yABEgKDZPD_BwE

Kontact 

You could also measure the crown on the old fork if you have any doubts - 27.0 for JIS, 26.4 for standard that pairs with 30.2.

Those are nice products.

The fork is not a touring fork, which may or may not matter to you. Touring forks typically have more rake (offset) to their blades to make the trail low for carrying heavy loads on front racks. Some folks don't think this is really necessary, and you might not plan on even mounting front racks. You might also want to confirm that the carbon fork's axle to crown measure of 391mm is in the ballpark of the original fork. If it isn't, the bike is still rideable, it may just feel a little bit more or less "sporty".

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/forklengths.htm

Also keep in mind you're only saving 100 grams with that carbon fork overy a steel Surly Cross Check fork for $89. Not playing favorites, just giving you the information.

On the headset - that is a super nice, very pricey high end piece. Be aware there are lots of other choices that even use cartridge bearings that are priced more appropriately, like this one:
https://brandscycle.com/product/orig...iABEgLxdvD_BwE

I have never viewed headsets as particularly important. As long as they aren't too heavy and they last, that's all I need to steer.

pkniland

I’m not quite sure what to measure on the old fork. The tube is 25.4, but where the bearings sat it measures in the low 30’s? I’m from NC and really like the guys at Cane Creek. I may end up going with the 40 they have to save a few $$. The axle to crown is a little lower but not enough that I’m worried. I think I can pick it back up with the stem if it’s an issue. I think the 45mm rake will be sufficient and for my planned trips I’m thinking 40-50l would be enough so the loss of a front rack I can live with as well.

pkniland

Ronsonic 

The Cane Creek Ten series stuff is about a quarter the price and works just about as well The Forty is good stuff. I've got the version of that Nashbar fork without the canti studs and it works great and looks amazing for the price.

About your measurement, it looks like you are measuring the bearing race at the base of the steerer tube. This is another removable part that slides down the tube and seats onto a slightly larger diameter section of the tube. The good news is that you don't need to measure or match that. You need to measure the new fork. Or not measure because it will be a published spec.

pkniland

I am starting to finalize my parts list. Ive been back and forth between flat and drop and I have decided to go with the a flat bar. Build list is below.

Nashbar Cyclocross 1" threadless fork
Cane Creek 40 Headset
Surly Moloko Bar
Cane Creek Flat Top Brake Levers
Cane Creek SCX5 Canti brakes
Shimano SL-RS700 Shifters
Shimano Ultegra FD-R8000-B Front Derailleur
Shimano Ultegra FC-R8000 Crank 50/34
Shimano Ultegra RD-R800-GS Rear Derailleur
Shimano Ultegra CS-HG800 Cassette 11-34
Shimano SM-BBR60 Bottom Bracket

Hope to have the frame cleaned, prepped, and painted this weekend.

pkniland

Finally had some time to work on this over the last month. I was able to get the several layers of paint down to bare aluminum and went back with a Italian Olive. Got the crown race on, and cane creek 110 pressed in. I have run into an issue with the cantilever brakes on the front. I replaced the fork that came with the bike with a surly cross check fork. The studs on the fork are smaller than those on the frame. I should have check before purchasing, but I didn't know canti studs had different id's. I am going to try and find some hardwear that fits the surly stud, and will sit into the brake cup. Any advice?

lubloi

Paint job looks great. The different canti stud sizes surprise me. As far as I know, all canti bosses have the same outer diameter. Did you take actual measurements of the front and rear studs? I'm asking because the cantis flopping around on the studs may also be caused by a missing bushing. Some cantilever brakes have thin brass bushings that like to fall out and roll under the fridge while you're looking the other way. When you then put the canti back there is going to be lots of play between canti and stud.
The fixing bolt that threads into the stud and retains the cantilever should be an M6.

raria

OP this nashbar touring bike seems to have be the reincarnation of the fuji touring and windsor touring bike (2014 Bikesdirect). I have the Fuji and compared it to the other two bikes and they are identical, even down to the FSA *Vero* crankset.

So perhaps researching those bikes would help?

pkniland

The canti sit on the stud fine, but the bolts wont thread into the boss. The OD is the same its the ID that is giving me an issue. I looked on surly's site and it list the thread pitch as M5x1, I don't have anything at the house that will thread into it so I am going to take the fork to the hardware store to see what I can figure out.

pkniland

That's good information, and you're right they do look identical.

lubloi

That explains why the bolts won't thread in, apparently Surley is using M5 bolts rather than the standard M6. These are all very common sizes, even if your hardware store doesn't stock M5 bolts (which would be surprising) you can order them online.

pkniland

TireLever-07

Hello, It looks great. Might have been power coated? Originally. In the 1980's Nashbar was selling a few complete bikes. Back then, delivery was *riding the dog*. They'd deliver it to a Greyhound Bus terminal of your choice. You have the newer one. Back then it was the *Nashbar Toure* Had a lost wax,finish. Half-step plus granny triple crank. cheers

Piff 

Ah, it was all for naught, you finished with a non drive side picture!

Looks great from any angle, must be a smooth ride.