Bike Forums - Painting Plan

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I am going to paint one of my Peugeot bikes. All the nicks and scratches are driving me crazy (oh well for keeping it original) It’s been a pain in the ass trying to find the original paint color code for Vivid Blue. So I finally did find a close enough color called Blue Mosque by Sherman Williams, but it is missing the metallic properties. Only water based paints can be mixed at the store so I ended up with a can of Latex Enamel. Then of course backwards, I then did some research and found that water based might not be the best option. Anyways here is my plan of action. What do you think? Any suggestions, tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

1. Prep bike sanding, cleaning etc.
2. Primer coats I got one that says it fills and is sandable
3. Color coats using Preval Spray Paint System to spray on color Blue Mosque in a Latex Enamel thinned with mineral spirits
4. Metallic coats using Preval Spray Paint System to spray on Dupli-color Clear Metallic paint
5. Clear coats using ?? What should I use

The part that I would like something different would be the color paint in Latex enamel. Would a acrylic enamel be a better choice? How can I get a custom color in oil based paint? Also no idea what I should use for a top coat?

Have you considered a powder coat?

Prismatic Powders can do literally any color you want. It will cost maybe $150 for a complex, two tone or metallic/clear coat finish. Mine was $140 for an metal flake with clear finish - photo below.

Look for a coater who does custom car and motorcycle parts and not a job lot shop doing 300 lawn chairs or washing machine lids.

Unless you are really set on paint, then I have no input. Just a suggestion.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...51dd8f3a2a.jpg

-Tim-

Latex paint and mineral spirits do not mix.

Go to a paintshop. Tell them you're painting a bike, and what colors you want. They will be able to do 2-part catalyzed automotive finishes pre-loaded into single-use spray cans (once the paint is mixed, you have a limited amount of time to use it) and appropriate clearcoat. Expect to spend $60-100 for a single color + clear.

Alternately, order a couple of cans from Spray.Bike, ~$17 a can for colors, $20 for metal flakes, and $15 for clear. Follow their instructions.

Cheaper still, get some Rustoleum Industrial tallboys and a good amount of wet-or-dry sandpaper. It will take time and a lot of elbow grease, but you can get a very tough finish for under 20 bucks.

I would second the powder coat if your budge will allow. It will look amazing!

Also, be careful mixing different paints and once used two different types of paint. One with color, one with clearcoat and it crinkled and bubbled in a couple of spots. This also happened a couple of times from just wet sanding the original paint down to a smooth finish. The rattlecan I initially used also crinkled and slightly bubbled. Now I just strip my bikes down to bare metal. No problems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyclingarri (Post 20434456)

take a look here at my custom restored Peugeot:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...s-peugeot.html

Now when you said Sherman Williams I naturally thought you meant their automotive store (division) but sounds like you went to a general outlet. We have a specified out let here and you can get proper materials here for the bike. As already mentioned the materials you have selected and the thinner you mentioned will not work for this application. Now did mine custom, so I was not worried about matching the original color, but even if you color match original, the finish itself will never match, and well IMO that's a good thing. Modern finish is much nicer. This is an SW clear on this bike as well as their base coat. I would try to persuade you to not be so bound to matching the color exactly, you can go to SW and find a color chip close and go with it. There are not concours bike shows that will fault you for not being original :) Stick with one product line just to erase variables. You don't want to waste your hard work..

I could get into an entire dicertatcion on paint products and compatibly but generally you can spray a urethane solid clears over acrylic enamel if you want to try it, always do a test piece first.. but really just go to an automotive paint outlet that can sell in a quart can, and stick with one system.. I would not attempt to do what you are suggesting.. The SW base and clear is not the envy of automotive paints and hot rodders but for bikes it's over kill and just right..

good luck...

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyclingarri (Post 20434456)

2. Primer coats I got one that says it fills and is sandable

From my experience with primer coats that fill, they don't.
Unless you just end up smoothing out dings in the paint it will never really level with the original paintwork.

If you are going to end up paying 60-80 dollars for paint, sand paper, time etc might be better to go for the powdercoat mentioned for ~$140

Unless you you're on for the challenge