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Frame suggestions
so I have a really nice tri bike with high end components (calfee treat tri) that I can not sale at a reasonable price. I am approaching 60 and am to wobbly to ride on 23mm tires. I am building a nice road bike with 38 tires from a Raleigh C40 frame. I have all the components for that, however I have a really cheap heavy Schwinn MTB that I use for running around town. It is just too heavy. I would like to build a light mtb/hybrid/comfort bike using the drive train from the Calfee. I do want to put a suspension on the front and run 2.5 tires. I am having problems findind a frame to build on. I can find lots of Wally specials or guys that want 300 bucks for a 30 year old bike. But no inexpense light mtb frame to start from. Also, I am cheap. Any ideas or suggestions. Please provide links if this has been discussed in the past. |
I don't think I'd swap many of your tri components into the MTB. :foo:
One option on your tri bike is to part it out and sell off the components. I'm not sure about finding lightweight MTB frames. Suspension? No suspension? There are quite a few 10 to 20 year old aluminum frames that you should be able to snag cheaply. Also, perhaps consider direct import Chinese carbon fiber (E-Bay, Alibaba, AliExpress, etc). Also consider some of the high-end Hybrids that are now coming out, or better cyclocross bikes. |
YOu are going to have issues putting road components on a mountain frame. Not saying you can't do it, but be aware it's not going to be plug & play.
Things like bottom pull top pull FD, 135-130mm rear spacing, BB width, spindle length, brake reach/pull ratio, shifter compatibility etc. I don't know your market, but quality hard tail mountain bikes aren't that hard to find here. Set up with road tires sounds like what you want. https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/bik...652071731.html https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/bik...643784674.html https://madison.craigslist.org/bik/d...661929214.html https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/bik...644245508.html |
I am in Peoria. Front suspension. I was wondering if any of the Kmart specials have a light frame that would work for running around town. Will not be doing single track with my old brittle bones. The Schwinn I now use is over 40 lbs. also I am looking to not spend more the $50 on frame. I only plan on moving the drive chain over. Crank, detailer, etc. I have some other components for handle bars etc. The final bike will be a hybrid comfort bike for running to the hardware store. I have seen a Schwinn mesarunner and a 2003 mongoose rockadile SX. |
I rarely see old mountain bike frames only for sale unless it's a high end bike.
Be aware of RD capacities.Chain wrap,max cog size etc. There is a reason there are different mountain and road groups. |
Maybe take a look at Nashbar.
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So I have found a access xcl frame and a mongoose rockadile bike either one under 50 dollars. opinions? Can not post links but both are in Peoria it craigslist |
There will be compatibility concerns. Frequently MTB frames will not clear a road sized chainrings, and often use 73mm bottom brackets which will not work with the crank off your tri bike. You will also need to source wheels for this frameset and the chainline will be wrong which may or may not cause annoying drivetrain problems.
This is a bad idea. Buy a MTB with sufficient quality components. Cheap suspension forks are heavy and are OK for reducing the impact of potholes and the like but mostly suck off road. With a MTB tire do you really need it around town? Also I'm totally being a jerk but you make 60 sound like a death sentence. I ride technical singletrack with guys who have over a decade on you. |
Originally Posted by MikeTheMean
(Post 20489294)
So I have found a access xcl frame and a mongoose rockadile bike either one under 50 dollars. opinions? Can not post links but both are in Peoria it craigslist |
Originally Posted by cpach
(Post 20489296)
There will be compatibility concerns. Frequently MTB frames will not clear a road sized chainrings, and often use 73mm bottom brackets which will not work with the crank off your tri bike. You will also need to source wheels for this frameset and the chainline will be wrong which may or may not cause annoying drivetrain problems.
This is a bad idea. Buy a MTB with sufficient quality components. Cheap suspension forks are heavy and are OK for reducing the impact of potholes and the like but mostly suck off road. With a MTB tire do you really need it around town? Also I'm totally being a jerk but you make 60 sound like a death sentence. I ride technical singletrack with guys who have over a decade on you. |
Originally Posted by MikeTheMean
(Post 20489294)
So I have found a access xcl frame and a mongoose rockadile bike either one under 50 dollars. opinions? Can not post links but both are in Peoria it craigslist https://peoria.craigslist.org/bop/d/...632413190.html So what is a fork and headset going to add to the cost? Wheels? Honestly buying a complete bike ready to ride is more economically feasible than you think. Even with the fact you have components that may or may not be compatible. You aren't realizing the rabbit hole you are proposing to go down |
Originally Posted by dedhed
(Post 20489142)
YOu are going to have issues putting road components on a mountain frame. Not saying you can't do it, but be aware it's not going to be plug & play.
Things like bottom pull top pull FD, 135-130mm rear spacing, BB width, spindle length, brake reach/pull ratio, shifter compatibility etc. Wheel sizes and widths? Seatpost sizes? Bar choice? One could easily come to a point that the only thing worth swapping would be the handlebar stem, and maybe derailleurs.
Originally Posted by MikeTheMean
(Post 20489184)
I was wondering if any of the Kmart specials have a light frame that would work for running around town.
https://www.bikeforums.net/mountain-...arbon-mtb.html But, it is an odd bike. Relatively light frame, 26" wheels, but everything else is low quality, and heavy, and more than makes up for the weight of the light frame. If one is wishing to rebuild everything, then it would be better just to source a quality frame to start with. |
The Access is probably a decent frame. But I can tell you that a frame build will cost you so much by the time your done it will leave you scratching your head. I've done 3 of these a few years ago. Even the cheapest suspension fork will cost around $75. I guess you already have a headset, a set of decent 26" wheels, linear brakes, tires, seatpost, etc., etc. if you have never built up a bike, you have no clue the things that pop up. If you don't have a parts bin, it will cost you more than buying a good older $300 bike.
As for the Mongoose. Have no clue what year it is. If it is an older one it might be worth it. If it is a cheap Walmart bike, have fun.If, and it may be a big if, you can find an early 2000's Trek or Specialized with little use, (not abused) you will be much further ahead. 9 speed drivetrain, most forks were an improvement of those from the 90's, and cheap.If you need to keep the cost down due to financial reasons, I can appreciate your situation. If it is just to be cheap, but you can afford better, you are probably a bit too foolish for someone who had spent 60 years on this planet.John |
Originally Posted by 70sSanO
(Post 20489480)
The Access is probably a decent frame. But I can tell you that a frame build will cost you so much by the time your done it will leave you scratching your head. I've done 3 of these a few years ago. Even the cheapest suspension fork will cost around $75. I guess you already have a headset, a set of decent 26" wheels, linear brakes, tires, seatpost, etc., etc. if you have never built up a bike, you have no clue the things that pop up. If you don't have a parts bin, it will cost you more than buying a good older $300 bike.
As for the Mongoose. Have no clue what year it is. If it is an older one it might be worth it. If it is a cheap Walmart bike, have fun.If, and it may be a big if, you can find an early 2000's Trek or Specialized with little use, (not abused) you will be much further ahead. 9 speed drivetrain, most forks were an improvement of those from the 90's, and cheap.If you need to keep the cost down due to financial reasons, I can appreciate your situation. If it is just to be cheap, but you can afford better, you are probably a bit too foolish for someone who had spent 60 years on this planet.John Great feedback, thanks! I was a mechanical engineer for 30+ years. I have no interest in car work, so building up a bike is the fun part. Buying a new bike just to ride.... boring. So dealing with all these issues that everyone is describing is making me all hot and excited. Can not wait to begin! For me wasting time but not money is the point. (BTW I can afford whatever bike I want... but not the point!) Yes, I wish I could find an older trek or specialized, but it is not going to happen in Peoria any time soon. the mongoose has Judy rockshox on it. If I do not like the frame, I will buy it for the shocks and buy the access frame and still be under $100. Lots of options on head set, wheels, brakes. All used but rebuilt. |
Do you have a local bike co-op?
They can be a good source for good used parts including frames, partial bikes, etc. |
Don't forget special bike tools for things like bottom brackets. Repair stand sure is nice too for builds and maintenance.
Bike Peoria Co-op | Bike Peoria |
I'll tell you there are better builders on this site than I am. But building a bike from the frame up is a ton of fun, but it is not cheap. I did my first bike build in 1990. The most fun build was 3 years ago on '92 Serotta Mtb frame that needed a suspension fork with a 1" steerer. The fun is tracking everything down and getting a good final product. I can tell you every part, and probably where it came from without looking at the bike. Amped up enough? But you do need to do your homework. Find a decent frame, not some discount store discard. A fork that is not worn out. The best route is to buy a good used bike and then learn to tear apart bearings and re-grease, swap out parts as needed. There are some gems out there, especially in the 26er world. You just have to be willing to adjust your budget, if you are able, to find a really good deal on a good bike. It dies not have to he expensive. John |
My old steel Bianchi got killed by a car, but most of the components survived, even the wheels. I found an aluminum road frame on Nashbar.com for $99. The parts all went on except the fork, wrong steerer diameter, so I found an Easton carbon fork, also Nashbar, for $99. Pretty cheap way to get rolling again. I know they have other frame types. Look into the returned goods, or clearance, even though the regular sale prices aren't that bad. I paid a local shop to assemble it, though now I could do it myself. The aluminum didn't have the ride quality of steel, so I sold it to my neighbor, but if you don't mind aluminum, go for it. The build and finish of the Nashbar frame was very nice. Beware that changing frames involves several small things, like headsets, seat post dia., brakes, front derailleur mount, BB, that may add up as unforeseen complication$. My frame came unpainted with a brushed satin finish. I added the decals.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fea713856c.jpg |
A guy had a trek 7100 for sell at $150. The front shocks locked up and he tried to repair them. He gave up and bought a new bike. This morning he lowered the price to $75. I went over and looked at it. It is in great shape.... other then no front suspension. I offered him $60. He said no. I said I was only intrested in the frame and have one in mind for $40. Went to walk away and he said he would take $60. So.... I think I am on my way. It is light and everything looks good. i will go by the bike co op on Wednesday. $50 membership and I will see if there are some volunteer options to get hands on experience. I learn by doing.....and watch YouTube videos i got a little kit with most of the special tools. Also I have a access to a complete set of Park tools. Long story that involves a dog attack and not suing. Thanks for the encouragement, pessimism and suggestions. They are were all helpful. |
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