SRAM Apex HydroR adjustment
08-11-18, 02:15 AM
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SRAM Apex HydroR adjustment
Hi all,
I have today purchased my first road bike with hydro disc brakes. It is a Cannondale Slate Apex1 running 1x11.
Being a pedant, I need to find a way to make sure that both brake levers start braking with the same amount of pull. the left (no shift, just brake) brakes almost immediately, but the right has a bit of 'slack'.
I have fiddled a bit with the Reach Adjustment, but that doesn't seem to affect the amount of pull needed for the pads to hit the rotors.
Any suggestions?
I have today purchased my first road bike with hydro disc brakes. It is a Cannondale Slate Apex1 running 1x11.
Being a pedant, I need to find a way to make sure that both brake levers start braking with the same amount of pull. the left (no shift, just brake) brakes almost immediately, but the right has a bit of 'slack'.
I have fiddled a bit with the Reach Adjustment, but that doesn't seem to affect the amount of pull needed for the pads to hit the rotors.
Any suggestions?
08-11-18, 09:58 PM
#2
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In general the rear brake will feel a little softer because there is more cable housing to expand slightly under braking, similar how running a cable actuated brake through full brake housing makes it feel a little softer. It's possible that the rear is bled worse than the front. If the bite point is pretty firm, and the pads have plenty of room around the rotor now, you can try removing the wheel and rotor and very, very slightly advance the pistons by pulling on the brake. If you go overboard the brake will rub the rotor and or you won't be able to insert it--if so spread the pads out all the way, reinstall the wheel, and advance them back up with the rotor installed.
It's also possible that the front has too much fluid in the system or the pads are over advanced. I'd try spreading the front pads apart and then reinstalling the wheel and advancing the pads back again. If the pistons don't retract fully you can open the lever bleed port, put a rag over it, and push the pads out.
It's also possible that the front has too much fluid in the system or the pads are over advanced. I'd try spreading the front pads apart and then reinstalling the wheel and advancing the pads back again. If the pistons don't retract fully you can open the lever bleed port, put a rag over it, and push the pads out.
08-12-18, 12:26 AM
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Last edited by cobba; 08-12-18 at 12:31 AM.
08-12-18, 01:08 PM
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08-12-18, 02:37 PM
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Having both hand brakes actuate with the same amount of brake lever actuation on a bicycle is not necessarily a good thing. As long as you know which lever actuates the the brake on which wheel, you can train yourself how to brake most effectively. The amount of pull that you have before your brake takes effect is an important indicator to you about which one works best in a particular situation.. The faster you have to stop, the more important your front brake will be. Under full emergency braking, the help that your rear brake provides can diminish to almost zero. Unless there is an underlining mechanical problem with your brakes, it is not a bad thing that your front and rear brakes feel different
08-12-18, 02:47 PM
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Having both hand brakes actuate with the same amount of brake lever actuation on a bicycle is not necessarily a good thing. As long as you know which lever actuates the the brake on which wheel, you can train yourself how to brake most effectively. The amount of pull that you have before your brake takes effect is an important indicator to you about which one works best in a particular situation.. The faster you have to stop, the more important your front brake will be. Under full emergency braking, the help that your rear brake provides can diminish to almost zero. Unless there is an underlining mechanical problem with your brakes, it is not a bad thing that your front and rear brakes feel different
To the OP: ride a lot more and stop obsessing over nonsense. The exercise will balance your brain chemicals and you'll feel much better. You may even find a worthwhile personal relationship. Good luck. =)
08-12-18, 06:53 PM
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08-12-18, 06:54 PM
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08-12-18, 06:55 PM
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In general the rear brake will feel a little softer because there is more cable housing to expand slightly under braking, similar how running a cable actuated brake through full brake housing makes it feel a little softer. It's possible that the rear is bled worse than the front. If the bite point is pretty firm, and the pads have plenty of room around the rotor now, you can try removing the wheel and rotor and very, very slightly advance the pistons by pulling on the brake. If you go overboard the brake will rub the rotor and or you won't be able to insert it--if so spread the pads out all the way, reinstall the wheel, and advance them back up with the rotor installed.
It's also possible that the front has too much fluid in the system or the pads are over advanced. I'd try spreading the front pads apart and then reinstalling the wheel and advancing the pads back again. If the pistons don't retract fully you can open the lever bleed port, put a rag over it, and push the pads out.
It's also possible that the front has too much fluid in the system or the pads are over advanced. I'd try spreading the front pads apart and then reinstalling the wheel and advancing the pads back again. If the pistons don't retract fully you can open the lever bleed port, put a rag over it, and push the pads out.
Cheers
