sportslvr

Hello, I hope all are doing well and having a terrific cycling Season. I am hoping to receive some help with identifying parts and compatibility knowledge for some repairs and/or upgrades to a road bike that I purchased for indoor training, in January. I’m now riding a Trek Verve 3 Hybrid, outdoors.

I am a “new cyclist” of less than 1 year and well on my way to being consumed with the sport. I am 63 years old and 6’1” with a weight of 250. I played competitively in Basketball then moved on to travel Softball until the knees could no longer allow me to compete at the level I wished to perform. Then, along came my newest and rewarding love, cycling!!! I ride 3 to 4 times a week, alternating between an indoor smart trainer (20 mile rides) and outdoors (40 mile rides), year round.

My goal is to move from riding the Road bike (smart trainer) indoors exclusively and start riding it outside. Listed below are the specs, as best that I can tell (newbie) and questions I have concerning replacement parts. I purchased this bike for less than a $100 dollars and rides with no big issues on the trainer. But, I want to be safe and proactive with replacing parts, as they are in need of attention with the age (neglected maintenance) and anticipated use.

I consider this to be my next progression, so I feel like I don't want to "overkill" on spending for a bike of this age. I want to get comfortable an ease into the exclusive "Road Bike" riding outdoors transition.

Thank you very much for taking the time to read this and for your sharing your experience and opinions. Ride On!



2009 Cannondale Six 13 Pro 10 Spd – Compact 50/34 - with a hodge podge of other brand parts

· Sram Rival Double Tap (going to keep this, thoughts)

· Shimano Ultegra front Derailleur (don’t know how to tell what number/year) - should I replace with the same? (this one is a clamp on)

· Sram Apex med rear Derailleur (Just Purchased) will remove the Sram short

· Sram PG-1030 cassette 11-32 (Just Purchased) will remove the Sram 11-25

· Shimano SG-X 10S 50-F - thoughts on replacing? I don’t understand what I have here – these are the inscriptions I see – Inside ring Shimano SG-X 9S/10S 34-F. On the drive pedal – Shimano FC600 172.5. On the non drive pedal Shimano ???/R550/R553

· Is it possible to just replace the rings (50 and 34)? Or replace the whole crank and or upgrade? What’s compatible? The bottom bracket is a BB-RS500 (another inscription I see is BC 1.37x24 ROAD)

· Are these parts still available? yikes

cpach

That's a super nice bike--assuming it fits you I bet it's great! Don't feel the need to be too proactive. Replace what needs replacing. The apex medium cage der and the 11-32 are good moves. The FD is probably still fine--if it shifts, it's fine. Eventually the pivot points on the FD can get worn and/or the cage can get warped, but it's not a common replacement item. You will probably need a new chain to fit the larger cassette. If it skips on the chainrings, then they need replacement, if it doesn't, they do not. That's a pretty nice crank and I would not be in a hurry to replace it. You can still source replacement chainrings.

Check in on the wear to the tires, and how all the bearing assemblies feel, and the wheels for true, and your bike should be reliable. The primary wear item besides tires and brake pads is chains--if you measure them for wear and replace them on a regular schedule you should not frequently need to replace cassettes, and even less frequently chainrings. Also replace the derailleur cables and housing when they feel bad or just the cable after about a year of regular riding if it keeps feeling fine, whichever comes first. Replace brake cable and housing when it feels crummy. Replace handlebar tape when it looks crummy.

AnkleWork

If all those parts really need replaced, you'll be better off just buying a whole bike with new/newer parts.

dedhed

Before you start buying parts do some research on "compatibility"

Phil_gretz

First off, this bike is not old. And it is worth maintaining. You'll want to account for the differences between trainer riding on this bike and actual road riding, namely braking, tires and shifting under load.

We'll assume that the bike fits you and that you have adjusted the contact points (pedals, saddle position and handlebar position) to achieve the most compatible fit that you can with this frame? Does the bike fit you? If not, then do not spend more on it. Clean it up and sell it to help pay for the next bike, one that fits you properly.

Braking will be a combination of brake pads, cable/caliper adjustment, and rim true. It may be time to change brake cables or replace pads. Do you know how to check for rim true? If not, bring your wheels to a competent shop and ask them to check bearings, spoke tension and true both rims.

Tires should be obvious. If you still have tread and the sidewalls aren't dried out or cut, you'll be okay to start.

Shifting - that's where the components about which you asked enter the picture. Shifters (okay), shift cables (change out?), derailleurs (as long as compatible with shifters and working, okay; clean them), chain (check for elongation because of wear), crankset and bottom bracket bearing (no need to change unless there's a problem), chainrings (can be changed if you find slipping/skipping once the new chain and cassette are in place), and cassette (Shimano or SRAM compatible, correct number of cogs). Everything should adjusted to work together to give you smooth, confident shifting. If not, start with cassette and chain.

You might want to have a bike shop go over the drivetrain, replacing the cables, cassette and chain. This is an easy job and worth paying someone to do if you don't want to do it yourself. Good luck.

sportslvr

Thank you for your response and helping me with some great experienced suggestions! I think at this time I will just replace the cassette and the RD and see how things go. The FD shifts without any big issues and only responds slowly, from the 34 to the 50, on seldom occasion. I am guessing that might be due to the condition of the chain (which I also have purchased new) and maybe an adjustment? When you say, " skips on the chainrings", does that mean when engaged in a particular ring, it loses tension or comes off the gear? Once in the ring, I never lose tension, stays in the ring(s) and pulls great.

The tires are good as they are, but I will eventually change them to a 25 from the current 23, or that is my thought? The brakes/calipers are also in great condition, Ultegra, without any sloppiness. The wheels, Mavic Ksyrium SL (front) and Mavic Ksyrium Elite (rear) and have been checked out and are good to go. I don't know the age of those wheels but those are the models.

I am looking forward to getting these parts changed out and taking her for a spin.

Thank you very much and I hope to be able to help someone out as well, as I gain experience!

sportslvr

Thank you!

nfmisso

You MUST lengthen the chain with the cassette change from 12-25 to 11-32. https://www.wikihow.com/Measure-a-Bike-Chain I always use Method 2 because I am always changing the cassette and/or chainrings, so have nothing to compare the new chain to, and it is what Shimano recommends in thier instructions.

As others have mentioned, you do not have an old bike. My daily commuter is mid '90s vintage, and works better than most new bikes.