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Installed Fork-Mounted Hanger, Now Wheel Won't Stay Straight When Parked

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Installed Fork-Mounted Hanger, Now Wheel Won't Stay Straight When Parked

Old 08-22-18, 12:43 PM
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Installed Fork-Mounted Hanger, Now Wheel Won't Stay Straight When Parked

Sorry if the thread title didn't paint a clear enough picture.

Recently, I did a few things to try to solve a problem I was having with my front fork shimmying while braking. I...

1. Replaced my stem-mounted brake cable hanger with a fork-mounted hanger, as many people here suggested I do. I have old-style cantilever brakes on a 1996 GT Outpost mountain bike. When braking at high speeds, the front fork was actually shimmying forward and backward.
2. Replaced both bearing rings in my headset
3. Replaced my brake pads
4. Replaced the front brake cable and housing to compensate for the different length necessitated by the new hanger
5. Tightened everything up on the front end.

My bike, on which I carry a set of rear panniers that are always loaded with stuff for work, rests on a double-legged kick stand and, until this recent round of maintenance, stood perfectly straight when parked. That is, the front wheel came to a resting position at dead center, ensuring that the bike was always balanced when I walked away from it.

Since I did all the things above, the wheel constantly wants to spin left or right when I park it, and it has fallen down two or three times. Not only do I feel like a dork when this happens, but I'm afraid I will eventually damage the derailleur, bend my rear rack, or worse, spill my lunch on the way to work.

I know that a new set of bearings in the headset should make stearing looser, but this seems WAY too loose! Can somebody tell me what else might be going on?

CLUE: Adjusting the size and position of the front brake cable was not easy after installing the new hanger, and it appears the cable might be "pulling" the fork a little in one direction. However, the wheel spins BOTH ways, not just in that direction. Hmmm.....
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Old 08-22-18, 01:38 PM
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I think that your new low-friction system is doing what the old one would have done when new. There are spring-return kits for loaded-bike situations such as yours, like this: https://www.hebie.de/en/parking/stan...er-damper/695/ They call them dampeners but they are actually return springs, which I doubt have much effect on the steering.

I have and still use the old Flick-Stand parking brake/holder setups, but they are sadly out of production. GearInches.com flickstand Maybe someone in the 3D printing community will revive a similar design.
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Old 08-22-18, 02:08 PM
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Get a spring thingie.. https://velo-orange.com/collections/...eel-stabilizer
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Old 08-22-18, 07:58 PM
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That's IT?
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Old 08-22-18, 08:07 PM
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A story- When I was courting my wife I did the usual bike guy thing and offered to overhaul her bike (at that time a 9 year old Specialized Allez). On the break down I noted the overly tightened headset and that the rolling surfaces weren't brinelled, to my delight! Reassembled with the usual proper adjustment. I said to myself that I did good. When she first rode the bike she complained bout how "drunk" her bike felt. She no longer had a damped steering as the rotational friction was as intended, not overly tight. Now years later she is fine with her steering, her reaction time has caught up with the properly freely rotating headset. Andy
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Old 08-23-18, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Papa Tom
2. Replaced both bearing rings in my headset......
That's probably what caused your "problem". I expect the old bearings were either dirty and corroded enough not to turn freely or were "brinneled" enough that the pits indexed the steering. New properly adjusted bearings now turn the way they should.
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Old 08-23-18, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Papa Tom
That's IT?

drop by the house, I do better work in person.
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Old 08-23-18, 01:55 PM
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Use a Velcro strap, twist tie, whatever works for you to hold the front brake lever on when you park. Keeps the wheel from rotating providing stability for the bike. I do this when parked all the time to prevent any bumps, wind, earthquakes, etc. from knocking over my bike.
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Old 08-23-18, 02:23 PM
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Waaaahhhh!!!! I want my old bearings back!

So you guys don't think it has anything to do with the new cable hanger. Wow. I thought, for sure, something was pulling the wrong way.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 08-23-18, 03:59 PM
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PT- If the steering is free enough (as a well done headset should be) the brake and gear cables can cause a spring like force between the bars and the frame. Usually the two shift cables will pretty much cancel each other out, the same force by the RH cable is offset by the LH one. The remaining rear brake cable is the force with no counter. The shorter the casing loop is the greater the force. Andy
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Old 08-23-18, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
PT- If the steering is free enough (as a well done headset should be) the brake and gear cables can cause a spring like force between the bars and the frame. Usually the two shift cables will pretty much cancel each other out, the same force by the RH cable is offset by the LH one. The remaining rear brake cable is the force with no counter. The shorter the casing loop is the greater the force. Andy
Sorry...I don't get ya. So is there something I can do to "fix" this issue, other than adding yet another gizmo (the springy thingy) to my frame?
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Old 08-23-18, 05:28 PM
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PT- Think of the cables as springs. The two shift cables cancel each other out (assuming they are symmetrically run along each side of the bike). The brake cable is also a spring either pushing or tugging the bars one way or the other. The cable loop will seek it's least spring like configuration which is the largest curve/straightest it can be and still be connected to the control lever and the frame.

The mere weight of the fork/bars (and any load on the front end) will also seek their lowest level due to gravity. Loaded touring bikes are well known for this. Andy
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Old 08-24-18, 01:53 AM
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VO spring thing looks cheap and literally designed exactly for what you need.
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Old 08-24-18, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Papa Tom
Sorry...I don't get ya. So is there something I can do to "fix" this issue, other than adding yet another gizmo (the springy thingy) to my frame?
Well, you could cinch down the headset adjustment until it binds. That should fix your problem but has it's own downside.
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Old 08-24-18, 08:10 AM
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Do you mean that the handlebars, fork, and wheel as a unit used to point straight ahead when the bike was parked and that they now swing freely to the left or right when you park the bike?

If so, that means that the headset has indentations that the bearing balls used to nestle in (sometimes referred to as an "indexed" headset) and that your servicing of the headset corrected the problem (most of us would regard it as a problem, anyway!).
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Old 08-24-18, 01:22 PM
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Because, I have a front rack on it, the wheel of my bike does that..
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Old 08-24-18, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Papa Tom
Sorry...I don't get ya. So is there something I can do to "fix" this issue, other than adding yet another gizmo (the springy thingy) to my frame?
Maybe you could if it consistently pulled one way, but if it pulls both ways to which side do you apply a fix?
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