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Rear brake bridge integrity and workarounds?

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Rear brake bridge integrity and workarounds?

Old 08-26-18, 04:31 PM
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With a mighty wind
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Rear brake bridge integrity and workarounds?

So the bike in question has cross canti's. I just hooked them up.

I had to use the Origin 8 cable hanger https://www.walmart.com/ip/Origin8-B...&wl13=&veh=sem

I would rather have used one that hangs off the bolt of the seat tube clamp but that style caused the cable to bind. This one works great except I cannot get it tight enough to keep from moving without crushing the brake bridge it bolts to. It's not moving much now, it basically stays in whatever place I put it, but it'll move and in time, it'll move more. It needs a more secure fit prior to tightening it. Right now it's a flat surface tightened onto a small round bar with no other support. It's fine today but I am certain it's going to give me trouble in the future.

I have two ideas.

Idea 1. Find a piece of square stock tube, just big enough to fit over the brake bridge. It could be either steel or Al. Cut one side off so I can fit it over the bridge and drill a hole in it right where the bolt goes through. The back side would need a stout washer, potentially handmade from a hunk of something in my shop, and it should tighten up. Some file work would probably get the little tabs on back to fit the square stock. If it works, it'd be the same fit I have now with almost no concern of the cable hanger turning in the future.

Idea 2. Order an old school brake booster from ebay. You can get these for $2.50 to $10 with free slow shipping from China. Once in my hands, I'd come up with some way to attach the cable hanger, hopefully. If I get lucky, it'd be work and have some sort of 90's trick appeal. It's hard to know if it would work until I have it. I don't expect a cheap brake booster to improve braking. It would certainly also add more weight. I think it'd have a cleaner look though.

What idea am I missing? What idea would you use?
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Old 08-26-18, 04:51 PM
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I believe these washers are meant to prevent the crushing that you speak of.
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Old 08-26-18, 04:59 PM
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The cable hanger came with those. They do prevent the hanger from flopping all the way to the side in case of impact but they don't really hold it in place. They allow probably 40 degrees of movement.
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Old 08-26-18, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rosefarts
The cable hanger came with those. They do prevent the hanger from flopping all the way to the side in case of impact but they don't really hold it in place. They allow probably 40 degrees of movement.
You might have to find something to build up the brake bridge, like dead-soft aluminum, or use a round file or drill to change the profile of the curved washer to fit tighter to the bridge.

I did use a brake booster plate to mount a cable hanger on the Headshok fork on my Cannondale F1000. I got an upgrade air-oil for (that I practically stole) and while it had canti studs, it didn't have anywhere to put the cable hanger (V-brake/disk fork) I had a nice set of XT STI levers, and Control Tech billet cantis, so I made a hanger rather than scrap the whole cockpit.
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Old 08-28-18, 03:05 PM
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Update.

I ordered the brake bridge because it's $3.50. Less than an average quality beer. If I don't have a use for it, no biggie.

For the actual fix, I did idea 1. I found square channel (3 sided) at Lowe's that almost fit the hanger perfectly. 20 minutes of file work and it was a match. It slipped right over the bikes brake bridge. I painted it black and installed it. I used a nylock nut and didn't tighten the crap out of it. Now that the channel is integral to the hanger, it'll stay straight even with an extremely loose bolt.

Looks perfect and works perfectly.

Only comes in 48" lengths.

Does anyone need 46.5" of aluminum channel?
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Old 08-30-18, 11:09 AM
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that part is for forks not rear brake bridges.. one can use a rear brake hanger

like this QBP part, and perhaps get a smoother cable housing bend .

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/s...-cable-hanger/



than a shorter one like this :


but these also can go under the bolt head or nut,
outside of the frame's seat post clamp
and make a straighter cable housing curve, up to it,
than you did perhaps putting it in the gap between the ears
of the seat post clamp on the frame..




...
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