Anybody have a pedal hole repair kit?
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I presume you mean a crank arm pedal thread repair kit? I don't have one but it would help to know where you're located for someone to repair it for you. "The Open Road" covers a lot of ground.
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...the bike co-op here in Sacramento has one. I bought it for them when I worked there.
for some reason most of the shops in town did not choose to do this repair, so it seemed like an obvious choice.
We used to do the repair for customers at the cost of the threadsert, which was six or eight bucks at the time. Those suckers are pricey.
Unless it's a pretty special crank, it's usually not worth the hassle of shipping it around.
for some reason most of the shops in town did not choose to do this repair, so it seemed like an obvious choice.
We used to do the repair for customers at the cost of the threadsert, which was six or eight bucks at the time. Those suckers are pricey.
Unless it's a pretty special crank, it's usually not worth the hassle of shipping it around.
#4
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Not special, just unusual needs. We need a right-side (no spider) crank for the front of a tandem. That crankset is shorter than the normal 170, and the owner wants to keep it matching the other three arms. We can find a left-side crank of that model and length fairly easily but no right-side, so I suggested having it reamed and tapped to accept a right pedal.
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Seems like a reasonable solution to this problem. Heli-coil inserts are strong and should last pretty much forever if properly installed. Not knowing your location, I would suggest that you find a machine shop that does auto engine work. They have probably used heli-coils before and may have everything needed except the actual insert.
This really isn't a bicycle-specific repair, even though it is a crank arm. it's more of a machine shop 10-15 minute job.
This really isn't a bicycle-specific repair, even though it is a crank arm. it's more of a machine shop 10-15 minute job.
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Not special, just unusual needs. We need a right-side (no spider) crank for the front of a tandem. That crankset is shorter than the normal 170, and the owner wants to keep it matching the other three arms. We can find a left-side crank of that model and length fairly easily but no right-side, so I suggested having it reamed and tapped to accept a right pedal.
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Yes, many shops have them. Dan's offer at $25 is a fair one, and I suspect he will do a good job. When I was at Allstar in Raleigh NC the other mechanic, Terry, was pretty good doing this repair. I wasn't, although the few I've done have not had issues. I just never got the first and last coil of the insert to nicely seat/stay smooth WRT the crank arm's face. I have considered this repair a last resort one because of that (as well as it's a no reversing repair, there's no going back). If a replacement arm is available I consider that to be the better path to take. Andy
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Yes, many shops have them. Dan's offer at $25 is a fair one, and I suspect he will do a good job. When I was at Allstar in Raleigh NC the other mechanic, Terry, was pretty good doing this repair. I wasn't, although the few I've done have not had issues. I just never got the first and last coil of the insert to nicely seat/stay smooth WRT the crank arm's face. I have considered this repair a last resort one because of that (as well as it's a no reversing repair, there's no going back). If a replacement arm is available I consider that to be the better path to take. Andy
The trickiest part of the job is making sure to ream and tap the hole straight. The tool is a combined reamer and tap, and going in straight when the crank arm has a curve takes a careful eye.
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Yes, many shops have them. Dan's offer at $25 is a fair one, and I suspect he will do a good job. When I was at Allstar in Raleigh NC the other mechanic, Terry, was pretty good doing this repair. I wasn't, although the few I've done have not had issues. I just never got the first and last coil of the insert to nicely seat/stay smooth WRT the crank arm's face. I have considered this repair a last resort one because of that (as well as it's a no reversing repair, there's no going back). If a replacement arm is available I consider that to be the better path to take. Andy
I think you can still get RH threaded spark plug helicoils in the correct size and threading for this, but as far as I know, nobody is making and selling the LH ones any more. Just the threadserts.
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Yes, but as per the op, the issue is finding a compatible right side crank without a spider.
The trickiest part of the job is making sure to ream and tap the hole straight. The tool is a combined reamer and tap, and going in straight when the crank arm has a curve takes a careful eye.
The trickiest part of the job is making sure to ream and tap the hole straight. The tool is a combined reamer and tap, and going in straight when the crank arm has a curve takes a careful eye.
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...if you're talking about the threadserts (not helicoils) that are now being sold and used (It's a little sheet metal thingie, formed for both right and left hand threads), the trick is to use an old pedal spindle to set the threadsert into the arm with red Loctite to hold it in place. Once the Loctite has had a chance to set up, file or grind off any excess on the back, and then remove the dummy pedal spindle.
I think you can still get RH threaded spark plug helicoils in the correct size and threading for this, but as far as I know, nobody is making and selling the LH ones any more. Just the threadserts.
I think you can still get RH threaded spark plug helicoils in the correct size and threading for this, but as far as I know, nobody is making and selling the LH ones any more. Just the threadserts.
Back to crankarms and my now corrected memory. Here's a shot of the kit I used. You are correct in the method of setting the insert in place, I don't remember which LockTite I used but that aspect wasn't the challenge. As I replied to Dan's post for my personal cranks I used a drill press as a fixture and pilot for the reamer and tap. I have a vague memory of doing one repair freehand in a shop and thinking about how to align the insert. I will stand by my comment about this rethreading being the plan B. Thanks for the check and balance. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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#13
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Yes, that's a problem I've seen. Looking around at general purpose helicoil inserts, pretty much every 9/16 I saw was 18 or 12tpi, so I'm pretty sure just going to an auto shop wouldn't work for this.
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#15
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Surely the OP can find A bike shop to do this service .. near where they live...
.. call around.. prices may not match Dan's ,
but you wont have postage costs, either..
....
.. call around.. prices may not match Dan's ,
but you wont have postage costs, either..
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-29-18 at 10:01 AM.
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Not special, just unusual needs. We need a right-side (no spider) crank for the front of a tandem. That crankset is shorter than the normal 170, and the owner wants to keep it matching the other three arms. We can find a left-side crank of that model and length fairly easily but no right-side, so I suggested having it reamed and tapped to accept a right pedal.
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Not surprising....9/16" 20TPI is pretty much singularly used on bike crank arms....and most helicoil kits are for automotive use (improperly torqued spark plugs are like bullets shooting into car hoods).
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If no local options, this guy may be able to help... BikeSmith Design and Fabrication