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HELP? loose pedal crank

Old 09-05-18, 03:01 PM
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HELP? loose pedal crank

Im not even sure if im using the right terms...I hav a cheapo 18speed Supercycle Solaris. today i noticed a lot of play / wobble in the pedal crank. there is a flange type thing (with notches ) that screws on overthe thread that holds the pedal to the frame. this is on the pedal opposite to the side with the gears. do i simply tighten that again? or is there some other adjustments neede? although its hard to read the brand stamp on the pedal seems to be Prowheel? does that help? pretty hard to describe - i can take pics if necessary. id appreciate any help, as i know nothing about bikr repair 😍
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Old 09-05-18, 05:23 PM
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If I understand you correctly, you need to unscrew the flange thing. Under that you should find a bolt, which is most likely 14mm. Get a ratchet wrench and tighten that bolt down as hard as you can.

(Those bolts actually are supposed to be tightened to a specific torque setting, but unless you have a torque wrench, just tighten that sucker down hard.)
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Old 09-05-18, 05:55 PM
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thanks. but im not sure thats do-able? i dont think its as simple as that.
I'll try to attach some (not-very-good) to help you see it a bit better
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Old 09-05-18, 06:22 PM
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oh-apparently i cany posts URLs photos? until i have 10 posts...??
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Old 09-05-18, 06:23 PM
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3 posts now?
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Old 09-05-18, 06:29 PM
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Yeah, the ten post restriction is to discourage spammers. Go say hello to people in the Introductions section and come back when you can post pics.
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Old 09-05-18, 06:30 PM
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ilol....ok...thatll prob be tmw morning.
later here now.
thanks
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Old 09-06-18, 11:21 AM
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This is not exactly the issue you describe, but it has a good series of pictures:

The Golden Wrench: Repairing a Stripped Pedal Thread

In the 2nd picture, he is using a 5/16" or 8mm allen key to remove the crank retaining bolt. A 14mm hex socket is more common for low end cranks, instead of the hex key. Sometimes there is a plastic cap that needs to be remove first with a large flat blade screw driver (a table knife works just as well). This one has a plastic cap: https://www.policeauctionscanada.com/..._largesize.jpg Underneath the cap is the 14mm hex bolt or hex nut.

You need to tighten the ___ out of the 14mm hex head (or 8mm socket head). The spec'd torque is 30-40 ft-lbs. Even so, if the crank arm has been loose for very long, it is probably permanently damaged and can never be tightened sufficiently to get rid of the looseness.
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Old 09-06-18, 03:44 PM
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test
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Old 09-06-18, 06:16 PM
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trying to get posts up to 10, so i can post pics.
now, the bolts mentioned above , are pretty tight. i dont think thats the prob.
There is a threaded tube? (best way i can describe it) running thru the frame., between the L & R pedals,
on this threaded tube, -on the L pedal side (ie not the gears side), there is a flange on the threads, which is what is loose.
there is also a bit of a gap & a bit of play between the end of this threaded tube and the pedal crank, which majes a bit of ply / wobble there.
the tube thing can be screwed in & out, and the flange can be lossened or thightened on the tube.
im not sure what or how to adjust all this. (wish I cud post pics yet!)
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Old 09-06-18, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jargey3000
trying to get posts up to 10, so i can post pics.
now, the bolts mentioned above , are pretty tight. i dont think thats the prob.
There is a threaded tube? (best way i can describe it) running thru the frame., between the L & R pedals,
on this threaded tube, -on the L pedal side (ie not the gears side), there is a flange on the threads, which is what is loose.
there is also a bit of a gap & a bit of play between the end of this threaded tube and the pedal crank, which majes a bit of ply / wobble there.
the tube thing can be screwed in & out, and the flange can be lossened or thightened on the tube.
im not sure what or how to adjust all this. (wish I cud post pics yet!)
Aha! I think I get it now.
The threaded tube at the bottom of the frame is the bottom bracket shell. The mechanism inside it is called the bottom bracket, and it consists of a spindle, bearings, and either bearing cups or retainers. Some bottom brackets are sealed - that is, the bearings are mounted in a shell - while others use loose bearings. The way to adjust the different types depends on what you have. So let’s see some pics and we should be able to clue you in.
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Old 09-08-18, 01:30 PM
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ok...back again
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Old 09-08-18, 01:34 PM
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not sure what post no. this is for me, so not sure about adding pics
i got the bolt off the pedal crank finally.
now when i look into where it came , its a squrw holding thr crank arm on.
crank arn doesnt seen to want to just "come off" ,so what do i do next?
do i need a special tool toget the crank arm (hopre thats right term?) off?
this is the left foot pedal BTW.
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Old 09-08-18, 01:35 PM
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testing again
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Old 09-08-18, 01:59 PM
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this is where i am
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Old 09-08-18, 02:02 PM
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now what? i tried to wiggle/ pry tha crank arm off that square middle... but it doesnt seem to budge. should it slide off that thing now...or what?
help?
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Old 09-08-18, 02:26 PM
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You need a special crank puller tool. It screws in to the crankarm, and an insert can then be turned to push against the spindle. Every bike shop will have the tool.
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Old 09-08-18, 02:32 PM
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What tools do you have? I'm assuming you don't have the dedicated crank puller. You may be able to make a standard gear puller (either 2 or 3 arm) work.
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Old 09-08-18, 02:37 PM
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doh...i have no 'bike' tools...
i dont even know what they look like
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Old 09-08-18, 02:46 PM
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Just pay for service at a proper bike shop, problem solved..
they will tell you what it costs when they see it, as it is.
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Old 09-08-18, 02:51 PM
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yeah.... i thought i might be able to patch it up myself.
i only paid $50 for this bike, used, about 6 years ago...not sure i want to spend much money on it.
oh well....
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Old 09-08-18, 03:09 PM
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If the crank does not come off easily then the crank is not the problem. More likely the bearing assembly that goes through the frame. The cranks do not have to be removed to fix that but one needs both tools and knowledge. Are you located near a bike co-op or bike shop, or can you find a friend who works on his/her own bike, or someone in the neighborhood that sells 2nd hand bikes? Also, if you Google bike parts diagram it may help you better communicate in the future.
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Old 09-08-18, 03:28 PM
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A low-budget way to remove a crank arm without the extractor tool is to remove the retaining nut, then ride around the block a few times until the arm falls off. You don't want to get too far away from home, because once the arm comes off, you'll be walking home from there.
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Old 09-08-18, 03:43 PM
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Well, first, you could try to tighten the bolt that holds your crank arm on. You take the cap off, and use a socket wrench to tighten the thing. But it requires that you really tighten the thing pretty well. Then ride around the block. Then retighten.

If you've ridden a lot with the crank arm loose, it may be toast. The aluminum arm has a tapered square hole that fits over the hardened steel axle. Riding with it loose can enlarge and distort that tapered hole. If so, no amount of tightening will give you a solid joint and your arm will continuously loosen. You'll need a new replacement arm if that's the case.

Here is what a crank puller looks like. A plug with threads on the outside (which screw into your crank arm) and a threaded hole on the inside (which has a bolt that you tighten to remove the crank. The bolt bears against the axle in this operation.




Here's a video on the general way to pull an arm and replace it
Remove A Square Tapered Crank - MadeGood | Free bike repair resource
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Old 09-08-18, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
A low-budget way to remove a crank arm without the extractor tool…
Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz
Well, first, you could try to tighten the bolt that holds your crank arm on...
AGAIN - Crank bolt is already removed and OP indicates the arm does not budge. Unless the other arm is loose the problem must be in the crank/BB bearing. Therefor either and adjustment is needed (no need for crank removal) or the BB needs to be overhauled/replaced and the OP has neither tools not knowledge to accomplish that.
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