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Trouble shifting into all 11 speeds

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Trouble shifting into all 11 speeds

Old 09-18-18, 08:29 AM
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pennpaul
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Trouble shifting into all 11 speeds

Today I swapped out my stock 11-32 Shimano 11 speed cassette for a 11-40 Sunrace 11 speed. I also replaced the chain (KMC for KMC) and added a Wolflink Roadlink. I also added a 1mm spacer between the new cassette at the base of the freehub body.

My High and Low screws on the rear Ultegra derailleur are properly adjusted. However, I'm having trouble shifting into all 11 cogs. Using the barrel adjuster, I can either shift into the largest or smallest cog, but not both.

Practically speaking, I rarely use the 11 tooth cog and I bought the cassette so I could get the 40 tooth. However, it just bothers me that I can't access all 11 rear speeds.

Wondering what I can try to get this to work.

When I originally thought to do this upgrade, I kept reading I'd need to use both a 1mm and 1.68mm spacer, but with both spacers on, there wasn't enough space for the 11 tooth and the lockring. Now I'm wondering if that 1mm spacer is even needed.

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 09-18-18, 11:27 AM
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Number one reason for failure to reach the small cog is cable/housing friction. Disconnect the cable, push the derailleur in by hand and then release. If it did not hit he small cog before and does now recheck cabling.
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Old 09-18-18, 11:29 AM
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Will it shift to it if you loosen the pinch bolt so there is no cable tension?
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Old 09-18-18, 01:06 PM
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out of curiosity why spacers? I know have have used a spacer for a 9spd cassett on a 11 speed freehub (shimano) but when I moved to 11 speed 105 5800 11x32 I did not need the spacer?
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Old 09-18-18, 01:25 PM
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Ya, why the spacer?
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Old 09-18-18, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cny-bikeman View Post
Number one reason for failure to reach the small cog is cable/housing friction. Disconnect the cable, push the derailleur in by hand and then release. If it did not hit he small cog before and does now recheck cabling.
Originally Posted by blamester View Post
Will it shift to it if you loosen the pinch bolt so there is no cable tension?
If I use the barrel adjuster to allow the shifter to reach the smallest cog, the chain just rides on top of the teeth of the largest cog when I shift it to the top. Is this still a symptom of cable tension/friction?
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Old 09-18-18, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by squirtdad View Post
out of curiosity why spacers? I know have have used a spacer for a 9spd cassett on a 11 speed freehub (shimano) but when I moved to 11 speed 105 5800 11x32 I did not need the spacer?
Originally Posted by trailangel View Post
Ya, why the spacer?
I had asked the question on here before and read that other people needed the spacer when putting an MTB cassette--like the Deore XT--onto a road cassette freehub because without it, the cassette would wobble. This is a Sunrace cassette, though. Tomorrow I'll take the cassette off and remove the 1mm spacer and see if that makes a difference for shifting.
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Old 09-18-18, 02:02 PM
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Well the cassette width does not change because of the spacer it is still 11 speed.
I generally adjust to the second smallest and use the barrel adjuster to get down to smallest. Good cable tension is easier get that way i have found. But it does not really matter.
It is possible you chain is to short or the b screw needa adjusting.
I would start again step by step. Limit screws and everything. Try it without the spacer and with see how it goes.
Anyway don't sweat it if you don't use the 11 the initial annoyance will go away as quickly as it gets dirty.
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Old 09-18-18, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by pennpaul View Post
If I use the barrel adjuster to allow the shifter to reach the smallest cog, the chain just rides on top of the teeth of the largest cog when I shift it to the top. Is this still a symptom of cable tension/friction?
The point is to see if the derailleur shifts properly to both large and small cogs when the cable is not in the equation at all. Set up the limits so when you push the derailleur in it sets the chain nicely on the large cog, and when released the chain goes nicely onto the small cog. Then attach the cable and adjust tension so that you can shift to the large cog. If the shift to the small cog then fails you have a cable/housing problem. In addition to friction another possible cause is a bad ferrule or housing, causing too much flexing so some of the lever movement does not get to the derailleur.
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Old 09-18-18, 03:14 PM
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Loosen the cable completely and down shift the gear missed on the shifter.

Your first gear now is actually the second one
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Old 09-23-18, 07:28 AM
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I did remove the 1mm spacer which I have determined is not necessary for this upgrade at all. It didn't make a difference, though.

I went out for my regular 16 mile ride yesterday which is mostly road with tons of hills and a small stretch of rocks/gravel in the middle of it. The shifting was not as smooth as my Shimano 11-32 but it didn't bother me enough to ever have to get off the bike to adjust it. I was able to access all 11 speeds but wasn't in the largest or smallest cogs very long.

I'll see how how things go over the next couple weeks if another tweak is necessary. For the time being I'll need to get used to the higher cadence since I'm used to grinding up hills.
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Old 09-23-18, 11:52 AM
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Well, removing the 1mm spacer did make a difference, as you are now able to shift into all 11 cogs. Have you checked derailleur hanger alignment?
You haven't said if you have gone through a complete start to finish derailleur alignment procedure, starting with the cable disconnected... adjusting the low and high stops without chain or cable. Have you done this??
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Old 09-23-18, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by trailangel View Post
Well, removing the 1mm spacer did make a difference, as you are now able to shift into all 11 cogs. Have you checked derailleur hanger alignment?
You haven't said if you have gone through a complete start to finish derailleur alignment procedure, starting with the cable disconnected... adjusting the low and high stops without chain or cable. Have you done this??
Before I removed the spacer, I did disconnect the cable, rechecked my high and low limits--a lot--then reconnected the cable. I was able to shift into all 11 speeds at that point but it seems to be about the same as it is now without the spacer. I didn't actually ride it with the spacer in place--I live in a high rise so it's kind of a PITA to lug tools down to the street, etc. I also don't have a repair stand so everything is done while the bike is upside down

Of course, after I removed the spacer and reinstalled the cassette, I went through the whole process again.

I will have to take a picture of the rear derailleur and post it here. I haven't crashed the bike but it did fall over once but it didn't affect shifting with the 11-32. The top jockey wheel seems to be aligned with the cassette while the bottom wheel seems to be kicked out a little away from the wheel which, I think, would explain the difficulty in shifting to the big cog. I'm assuming the cog and the 2 jockey wheels should all be coplanar?
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