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Help me diagnosise this ticking sound when I pedal

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Help me diagnosise this ticking sound when I pedal

Old 09-22-18, 11:16 PM
  #1  
raria
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Help me diagnosise this ticking sound when I pedal

The noise: A ticking sound on every rotation of the crank. Happens regardless of ring being used. Happens regardless of cog being used. Obvious causes ruled out (i.e. cranks hitting cable).
Noise becomes extra loud when pedaling under pressure. Bike has A530 Shimano pedals, FSA Vero Triple and Chin Haur 52 BB.

My plan:
1) Fit new pedals
2) Remove and re-install crankset
3) Replace BB
4) Replace crankset

But if people have insights into what is the cause you'd save me some work!


Thanks
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Old 09-22-18, 11:27 PM
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That's a reasonable list. Also ensure that the rear quick release is clamping the rear wheel securely. Really with heavy pedaling there's major weight and torque transfer and a great many parts of the bike will be effected by your pedal stroke, including things nowhere near the crank like your headset or handlebars.
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Old 09-23-18, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by cpach View Post
Also ensure that the rear quick release is clamping the rear wheel securely.
Do this before you do anything else...grease the skewer and make sure the wheel is seated properly and the skewer is tight.
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Old 09-23-18, 04:38 AM
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grease your chain & retest the performance.
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Old 09-23-18, 07:06 AM
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You also might want to make a quick check of spoke tension on your rear wheel. If spokes are losing tension, some could make ticking noises that would get more pronounced as you apply greater force to the pedals.

I would expect you would hear it more in lower gears where more torque is being transmitted to the wheel, so this may not be the most likely culprit. However, itís quick and easy to check for loose spokes so itís worth a quick look.
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Old 09-23-18, 08:55 AM
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Some more possible things, all free to test:

Make sure the screws holding the chainrings to the spider are tight.

Make sure there's nothing loose on the pedal, such as a reflector.

Make sure it's not your shoes!

Pedals tight on the cranks?

Try borrowed pedals before replacing yours. If it's the pedals, see if you can grease and re-adjust the bearings. I don't mind spending money if necessary, but I hate spending money to discover that I haven't solved the problem!
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Old 09-23-18, 09:56 AM
  #7  
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I've got got the exact same thing going on all summer. Bike rides fine so I've been ignoring it. You've inspired me to try and figure it out.
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Old 09-23-18, 10:20 AM
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Sorry if I missed these above:

* saddle: rails, seat post clamp.
* seat post.
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Old 09-23-18, 06:26 PM
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We have the winner ... kind off.

Thanks. You saved me some work.

Normally I just run a bead of dry lube on the chain (like Muc Off) religiously every other week. I guess there was one link I must have repetitvely missed as it wasn't moving freely.

Broke the chain, replaced the link and noise gone.

Originally Posted by Troul View Post
grease your chain & retest the performance.
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Old 09-23-18, 06:35 PM
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After some chain fuss experience i find it less stressful to replace the chain than to service it beyond greasing it, if lube didn't resolve the annoyance.
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Old 09-24-18, 09:50 AM
  #11  
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Click, click, click every revolution just as I apply downward pressure on left foot. Oh yes, it has to be the bottom bracket or crank arm. Disassembled, cleaned and greased threads for both bottom bracket and crank arms, and torqued to spec. Test ride... ah fantastic, no click another hundred yards more, same thing, click, click, click. Getting late try something next day. It was raining on my commute into work in the AM and the click started as soon as I started to apply downward force on the foot. However, shortly after it stopped when riding in the rain. Ah Ha. Something is dry. Removed pedals cleaned and greased threads and torques to spec. All good no more clicks.

Last edited by nosloedone; 09-24-18 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 09-24-18, 05:29 PM
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Let's see? I did crank arms, BB, chainring bolts, pedal mount, pedal bearings, seat post in frame, seat post holding saddle, cleats, derailleur hanger, both wheel skewers, the chain was brand new. And it was... the cassette. I took off the cassette, thoroughly cleaned it, reassembled it, and the bike was silent. I am assuming the cassette lock ring just wasn't tight enough so the cogs could move enough to make noise. There was a video I saw that basically went through every thing that could possibly cause a creak/ping/click, and how you should disassemble, lube and reassemble. There is no need to replace parts unless they are the real culprit. Swap parts around with another bike to test. That's how I eliminated the pedals, I just put a different pair on, to no avail.
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Old 09-24-18, 07:18 PM
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I went through this a while ago. It turned out being my rear QR was too tight.
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Old 09-24-18, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by raria View Post
Thanks. You saved me some work.

Normally I just run a bead of dry lube on the chain (like Muc Off) religiously every other week. I guess there was one link I must have repetitvely missed as it wasn't moving freely.
Broke the chain, replaced the link and noise gone.
It's nice that replacing the link worked for you, but once per crank rev noises are almost never the chain. A bad link in a chain does not come around once per crank rev except in a 1:1 gear ratio. In your case the bad link must have made noise when you pushed on the crank harder during the downstroke. Again, that would be an extremely unusual cause. The first focus should be on parts that rotate in time with the cranks, or are stressed during hard pedaling, almost all of which are mentioned above..
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Old 09-25-18, 05:09 PM
  #15  
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This is a very valid and well thought out point. But I've done about 20+ miles on the bike now and no clicking sound any longer.

Originally Posted by cny-bikeman View Post
It's nice that replacing the link worked for you, but once per crank rev noises are almost never the chain. A bad link in a chain does not come around once per crank rev except in a 1:1 gear ratio. In your case the bad link must have made noise when you pushed on the crank harder during the downstroke. Again, that would be an extremely unusual cause. The first focus should be on parts that rotate in time with the cranks, or are stressed during hard pedaling, almost all of which are mentioned above..
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Old 09-25-18, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by raria View Post
This is a very valid and well thought out point. But I've done about 20+ miles on the bike now and no clicking sound any longer.
20 miles is nothing. I wasn't satisfied that my noises were gone until I did 100 and rode really hard. The noise on mine would go away when I lubed the chain, only to reappear after about 20 miles, but ultimately I think it just masked the sounds.
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Old 09-25-18, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by raria View Post
This is a very valid and well thought out point. But I've done about 20+ miles on the bike now and no clicking sound any longer.
Interesting. But I don't see how the bad link could be noisy on every pedal revolution. Part of the time it's on the bottom side of the chain, where there's minimal tension.

Did you pull the wheel or reclamp the quick release? That was my clicking noise.

Lately, it's the saddle rails in the plastic sockets on each end of the saddle. A drop of chain lube every month or so keeps it quiet.

Finding the source can drive me crazy sometimes.
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Old 09-26-18, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by raria View Post
This is a very valid and well thought out point. But I've done about 20+ miles on the bike now and no clicking sound any longer.
There's no "but" necessary. I did not say it was impossible for the chain link to cause the symptom, merely that it was unlikely, so that looking at the chain as a cause is very seldom productive. Rm makes two good points. The bad link can't cause a click when it's on the lower part of the loop (except gong through the pulleys). So if the noise consistently occurs on the crank down stroke it can't be the chain.. Also, very often someone will replace a part and assume that it's cause-effect if the problem is then gone. People often replace bottom brackets for clicking noises, when it just as well could have been caused by a problem at the spindle/arm interface or the BB mounting in the frame. Likewise if you removed and reinstalled the wheel when replacing the chain.
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Last edited by cny-bikeman; 09-26-18 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 11-04-18, 07:13 PM
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I cleaned up the dropouts, greased, was really careful with my quick release tension, and the noise went away. For about two rides. It's back.
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Old 11-04-18, 08:03 PM
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I needed up greasing the threads of my QR's. Problem solved.
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Old 11-04-18, 08:23 PM
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Among the other maddening causes, one summer it turned out to be my shoelace. I was wearing the same shoes, and tying them in the same way, every day.
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Old 11-05-18, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Gresp15C View Post
Among the other maddening causes, one summer it turned out to be my shoelace. I was wearing the same shoes, and tying them in the same way, every day.
Plus one! It was the aglet. Look it up 👀
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Old 11-05-18, 09:40 AM
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I had a very faint ticking a few weeks ago. I wasn't too worried since it was so faint. Nothing better to do on a long ride than try to diagnose where the problem was coming from. After switching up all manner of gear combinations and trying different cadences, the noice was happening once per crank rotation at the same crank position no matter the gearing, or cadence. Turned out to be the tip of my shoe lace hitting the down tube. I usually make sure the laces are held down under the single strap on my cycling shoes, but I guess I forgot this particular ride. It cracked me up.

-Matt
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Old 11-05-18, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by cny-bikeman View Post
A bad link in a chain does not come around once per crank rev except in a 1:1 gear ratio..
And not even then. Think about it.
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Old 11-05-18, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Trakhak View Post
And not even then. Think about it.
Whoops - don't know why I posted that. I've noted many times that the same link comes around based on the. number of chain links divided by chainwheel teeth in use..
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There's no such thing as a routine repair.

Don't tell me what "should" be - either it is, it isn't, or do something about it.

If you think I'm being blunt take it as a compliment - if I thought you were too weak to handle the truth or a strong opinion I would not bother.

Please respect others by taking the time to post clearly so we can answer quickly. All lowercase and multiple typos makes for a hard read. Thanks!
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