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Rear wheel axle friction issue help

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Rear wheel axle friction issue help

Old 10-02-18, 11:34 PM
  #1  
Teamprovicycle
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Rear wheel axle friction issue help

Hi heres what i did to repair my fulcrum wheel
maybe you can help me .

Bought some new bearings .
Pressed them into wheels .
6001rs bearings for the axels .
assembled everything the way it came out .
When i tighten the two nuts its basically causing friction and even when loose it doesnt spin as free as possible .

This is my first time repairing wheels in any way so any help would be great thanks .

Front wheel seems fine .
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Old 10-03-18, 01:09 AM
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Are there any seals you removed during the service? If so make sure they're fully seated.
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Old 10-03-18, 01:18 AM
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How much friction?
Are.they worse.than the bearings you replaced?
Go for a spin and the bearings may sqaure up correctly.
Did the.wheel fit back in the dropouts the same as before?
Did.the gears need adjusting or if single speed is the chain line the same as before.
They may just need running in.
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Old 10-03-18, 01:25 AM
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Before the bearings where worn with play . they where rusted and old . i just replaced the wheel hub bearings front and back . the wheels fit and function the same . its just the back wheel if thighten the two nuts or the quick release cause massive rub and it feels ruff even just going finger tight .

i can remeber just a metal cover over the bearing and then the plastic cap . the axle i took out of the wheel hub goes around a metal piece that stays inbetween the bearings . as i pull it out the free hub body comes with it , maybe i messed something up in there ? The free hub will spin fine the skewer will spin but if i thighten even the quick release it grinds to a halt not much spin . there are two nuts 17mm on each side.

Last edited by Teamprovicycle; 10-03-18 at 01:28 AM.
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Old 10-03-18, 01:33 AM
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Take it apart and start again.Have a good look at how it fits together. Look for rub marks too see where it is binding.
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Old 10-03-18, 06:23 AM
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Did you press the new bearings into place by pushing on the inner races? If so, you may have damaged them.
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Old 10-03-18, 07:04 AM
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New cartridge bearings will have more seal drag than worn-in cartridges. If the "friction" you note is even throughout the full rotation of the axle, it's probably seal drag. Such drag is insignificant in use, and will decrease over time. If the friction is sticking in one place but freely turning elsewhere, it's a sign that the cartridges are not fully seated or properly aligned co-axially. Remove them and reseat them.
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Old 10-04-18, 12:22 AM
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They are seated as true . i used a large washer that put pressure over the bearing . the main issue is if i thighten the two lock nuts even by finger its not spinning freely and i hear a nasty rub sound . i can try to pull it apart ill just use them as training tools to get better at simple wheel repair lol.

Recent update , maybe i need more grease , but i repaired the wheels to be a spare cyclocross set for my first race . after 90 plus miles too and from the event plus a mud and grass filled race day the wheels seem to spin better as stated before . i still cant tighten the lock nuts so ill still have re repair them but it's funny , the front squeaks a bit now but spins better than before.

Last edited by Teamprovicycle; 10-04-18 at 01:40 AM.
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Old 10-04-18, 05:11 AM
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It sounds like you left out the spacer that fits around the axle and sits between the bearings. This spacer ensures that tightening the lock nuts will not put sideways (axial) pressure on the bearing inner races. If you leave out the spacer, then tightening the lock nuts will cause exactly the symptoms you describe.
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Old 10-04-18, 04:19 PM
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The above is how my Bullseye Hubs were designed with radial contact bearings..

axle with 2 end caps the 2 bearings and a spacer in between, over the axle.
so tightening the QR skewer, compresses the inner race between the end caps
and the spacer,
the outer race and bearing balls rotate freely...

2 small setscrews in the end caps just keep them from falling off
when you remove the wheel.





..
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