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Utterly cheap plastic rims

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Utterly cheap plastic rims

Old 10-03-18, 09:43 AM
  #1  
rosefarts
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Utterly cheap plastic rims

I have these terrible rims on both my Burley trailer and my running stroller. In terms of what I need from them, I guess it's fine.

The problem is that the tires don't want to stay on the rim. Considering my 20lb passenger, I don't pump them up high at all, still the bead starts coming off the rim. Basically a clincher with a smooth plastic inside surface.

I'd like to stay pneumatic and not switch to solid tires.

My idea to fix this is to deflate the tires and spray sticky spray between the rim and tire on both sides, then reinflate to about 10psi. Let it cure for a few hours, then inflate all the way, about 25 psi.

I realize I'll probably have to cut the tires off if I ever need to change them but I've got slime in the tubes and I doubt I'll wear the tires out any time soon.

Any reason not to do this? Any better ideas?
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Old 10-03-18, 11:26 AM
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Molded plastic wheels have always been the bane of those wanting well fitting tires that can handle higher pressures (higher then what plastic wheels will allow). The two issues, as I understand it, are the lack of a hook edge inside the rim (low cost molding doesn't like negative draft) and the material's lubricating nature. Sometimes we have tried different tires, same of different brand/models, to get a sort of best fit.

Burley does show replacement wheels in wire spoked designs which will likely have a hooked edge rim. This would be the best long term solution as any stickum will only last so long and when the tire/tube need replacing... Andy

Which hub style does your trailer need? The single end supported with push button release or the standard bike type with both ends of the axle supported and axle nuts or QR skewer? What's the tire size?
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Old 10-03-18, 11:39 AM
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Huh. We had both jogger and trailer with plastic rims. The trailer was too cheap InStep and they weren’t true but the jogger is a Bob and they’ve been just fine. The quality difference is obvious but on either one I had no trouble with blow offs using the original tires at the listed pressure limit. The original tires are hard as rocks, which probably helps.

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Old 10-03-18, 12:54 PM
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I wonder if the tires fit poorly, and you could get new tires.

I had encountered MTB tires that seem to have stretched over time, and one has to be very careful that they are perfectly centered on the rim before inflating.

Anyway, either try different tires, or double & triple check that the bead is centered before putting any real pressure in the tire.

Some types of rubber cement are relatively low strength, would add some tack, and could probably be broken if necessary. School Glue? If you partly inflated wet, then the drying would be slower, but you could have some adjustment.
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Old 10-03-18, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rosefarts View Post
. . . and spray sticky spray between the rim and tire on both sides . . .
No idea what "sticky spray" is, but most glues won't stick long enough to get you on the road; any that do will not continue to stick for much longer. You won't have to cut the tires off.
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Old 10-03-18, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AnkleWork View Post
No idea what "sticky spray" is, but most glues won't stick long enough to get you on the road; any that do will not continue to stick for much longer. You won't have to cut the tires off.
3M 77. I would almost trust it to mount tubulars.
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Old 10-03-18, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by rosefarts View Post
3M 77. I would almost trust it to mount tubulars.
To plastic?

Addendum: According to 3M's Spray Adhesive Selection Guide, they don't recommend it for rubber to plastic. Some reviewers noted failures.

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...tion-guide.pdf

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Old 10-03-18, 03:35 PM
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One issue with the sprayglue is that you'll likely end up with far more glued than you want. No sense gluing the tube to the rim, or the tube to the tire.

At most, you want to glue the bead of the tire, and the beadseat on the rim.

For application, you could likely mount the tire, then brush between the tire and rim (or if you want to wait for it to dry, apply small spring clamps or really big paper clips to the tire to keep it in the middle while you glue and wait for it to dry before final inflation. But, I'd probably just do it wet, and let it dry longer.
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Old 10-03-18, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by AnkleWork View Post
To plastic?

Addendum: According to 3M's Spray Adhesive Selection Guide, they don't recommend it for rubber to plastic. Some reviewers noted failures.

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...tion-guide.pdf

You're thinking too hard. We're talking about 25-30 psi tires. $10 tires on $15 rims. It doesn't need to be 4000 psi construction adhesive. I think hair spray might work too.

I haven't had a chance to dig through the garage yet. That ultimately might decide what I use.
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Old 10-03-18, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rosefarts View Post
You're thinking too hard. We're talking about 25-30 psi tires. $10 tires on $15 rims. It doesn't need to be 4000 psi construction adhesive. I think hair spray might work too.

I haven't had a chance to dig through the garage yet. That ultimately might decide what I use.
Yet, you think you need 3M Super 77 Adhesive to attach the tire to the rim. Perhaps you should stop thinking and accept what experience is telling you: that rim and tire are incompatible.
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Old 10-03-18, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by AnkleWork View Post
Yet, you think you need 3M Super 77 Adhesive to attach the tire to the rim. Perhaps you should stop thinking and accept what experience is telling you: that rim and tire are incompatible.
It seems like you want to argue about nothing. I'm game. It's not an incompatibility issue. I mean really, how many 16in tires are even on the market. It's as someone upthread mentioned, no lip on the rim and plastic is slick. It just needs a little something to keep it in place.

I mentioned the 77 because I had some in the garage. Turns out the can exploded at some point. The mess wasn't as bad as I'd have expected.

The only adhesive I had, without a trip to the store, is wood glue and the cement for bonding PVC pipe. I used the cement. It's holding fine at 15 PSI. Considering the load, that may be enough.
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Old 10-04-18, 10:39 AM
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Andrew asked what size tires and hub type for good reason.

My Burley trailer uses 20" BMX wheels and hubs.

I see BMX bikes tossed out in the trash, I would just look for some "new" wheels
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Old 10-04-18, 03:52 PM
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A better one is from Skyway, they are a Fiberglass filled Nylon..made in USA.

Any better ideas?
Captive air poly foam tires. dense foam rubber, essentially..




...

Last edited by fietsbob; 10-04-18 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 10-04-18, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by zebede View Post
Andrew asked what size tires and hub type for good reason.

My Burley trailer uses 20" BMX wheels and hubs.

I see BMX bikes tossed out in the trash, I would just look for some "new" wheels

Is the hub not proprietary? Mine has that through axle quick release thing sitting on cartridge bearings.
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Old 10-04-18, 06:23 PM
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The Burly trailer I have is pictured below. It is not a proprietary hub. It is a 100mm front hub.
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Old 10-04-18, 09:05 PM
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The above few posts is exactly why I asked which wheel/hub type the OP has. One version has wide open choices available from any decent LBS (or even trash day piles). The other is rather specific to Burley/trailers and it's options of availability and rim type significantly limited.

So we now know that the OP has the single side supported hub design. A bunch of our posts are not applicable now. Andy
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Old 10-05-18, 10:10 AM
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Post 15 shows the Burly CoOp era trailer,
the privately owned company, now, of that name .. Imports , and
uses a single side 16" wheel, rather than a standard front wheel hub
in a 20" wheel..

the 12.5" wheels on the Burly Travoy are indeed molded polymer..

https://www.rei.com/product/807561/b...n-bike-trailer.




...

Last edited by fietsbob; 10-05-18 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 10-08-18, 05:13 PM
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Update,

First of all, the Burley wheels are the least problematic between the two. Yes, I can blow them off the rim with high pressure but since I am the only one to use the trailer, it doesn't happen.

The running stroller is in a lot worse position. It's plastic rims are smaller and cheaper. I had aired the tires up to what I felt was a good balance last week and was happy. My wife used it while at work and thought the tires were low. She aired all three up to whatever maximum my air compressor can do and went for a run. On the drive home one blew up (with slime) inside the car. The other two are off the rim but didn't burst. Now all three rims have deformed spots, I don't know if it's new or I just noticed it.

The deformed spots, a bulged out area at the sidewall of the rim, are where the tire starts coming off and the rest follows. I'm going to attempt to heat up the rims and bend it back into place. If that doesn't work, the cost of 3 solid tires would be more than the cost of a lightly used stroller on craigslist.

I noticed that the bearings on these wheels are really pretty good. Considering it'll never travel faster than 8mph, I find that funny. I wish they'd put real rims on it instead.
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Old 10-08-18, 06:23 PM
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Update on the update.

I boiled water and dipped the warped parts into it. I then used a crescent wrench to bend it sort of straight. I addressed all the bulges on all three rims. It's far from perfect but it's better. I remounted the tires to see how it looked.

With just a few PSI, I pushed back the bead and squirted the super stick 77 along the inside. I had a little more working time since it's only about 40 degrees in the garage today.

I hand pumped to 5, 10, then 20 psi and I'll see what it looks like tomorrow.

My wife will receive the lecture not to overfill the tires.

Fingers crossed.
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Old 10-08-18, 06:24 PM
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BoB makes jogging strollers , other option front wheel kits for bike trailers for stroller function,
Thule- Chariot and Burly..
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