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How do I attach this rear brake cable?

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How do I attach this rear brake cable?

Old 10-07-18, 09:32 AM
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jm88
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How do I attach this rear brake cable?

With the help of this forum, I decided to replace the broken cantilever brakes on my '90s Trek bike with V-brakes. I got the front ones working great but when routing the cable for the rear ones I ran into a problem. The old cable ran through housing from the brake lever to the front of the top tube where there is a place to hold the housing but then ran all the way back to the brake through a tube around the seat post. If I follow this same route, there is not enough room to connect it to the V brake (see the photos). Ideally, I would need some type of holder to run a short piece of cable through housing from the rear of the tube to the brake like most every other bike I have seen has, but how can I do that since there is no holder welded to the frame back there?



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Old 10-07-18, 09:53 AM
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Back in the day, that sort of routing was probably a nice feature. I'm not immediately sure how to deal w/it now. I might look into some sort of add-on cable stop to zip-tie or clamp to the top tube.
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Old 10-07-18, 10:08 AM
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Yeah, I was kind of thinking of maybe just zip tying a piece of housing back there but didn't know if that would work. It should, because the cable will still remain tight from the front clamp.
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Old 10-07-18, 10:10 AM
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I hope your brake levers are also linear brake cable pull speced. As you know this frame was made in the canti lever era. To add a second and rear located casing stop we would use a "Backstop" or similar clamp on band with stop built in. Like the J&B Importers offered example (their part # 14472 for a 28.6mm diameter tube). Andy


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Old 10-07-18, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jm88 View Post
Yeah, I was kind of thinking of maybe just zip tying a piece of housing back there but didn't know if that would work. It should, because the cable will still remain tight from the front clamp.
I guess I missed the obvious solution, full length casing. No stops needed at all. Andy
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Old 10-07-18, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jm88 View Post
Yeah, I was kind of thinking of maybe just zip tying a piece of housing back there but didn't know if that would work. It should, because the cable will still remain tight from the front clamp.
This'll work, I've done it on a dual-suspension mtb. In your case, you may be able to insert a small section of cable housing (from the current stop to the V-brake noodle), and if the cable isn't making any quick bends, could be a very clean solution. Otherwise you may need a longer piece and make a larger S-bend.
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Old 10-07-18, 10:40 AM
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Bodging

Housing from the brake lever all the way to the V brake noodle is fine.
(I have a hydraulic rim brake, its hose, from one to the other )

The noodle along side the seat tube was for cantilever brakes , and you are fitting V brakes .
apples and oranges , essentially ..
Butt up a section of flexible brake housing against the back side of the noodle, on the frame..
to the V brake noodle you have..
I'd add a small, flat, washer , with a hole in the center, just big enough for the wire to pass through

and ferrule the housing portion you create..

Could just fit cantilever brakes, most of the stopping power is on the fork.. <Physics> anyhow..


some brake levers have 2 cable pull options , Avid speed dial has a knob.. so a range of adjustment..
but long pull levers can be accomodated.. you just use extra pull to leave more pad/rim clearance.
to be taken up as you pull the hand lever..





.....

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Old 10-07-18, 11:26 AM
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https://www.jensonusa.com/Problem-So...kaAsoQEALw_wcB
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Old 10-07-18, 08:09 PM
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I’ve just run full length housing, zip tied to the top tube.
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Old 10-07-18, 09:57 PM
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Full length housing with a few zip ties or some of these:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...ils.php?id=200
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=78519

.

Last edited by cobba; 10-07-18 at 10:19 PM.
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Old 10-08-18, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by jm88 View Post
Yeah, I was kind of thinking of maybe just zip tying a piece of housing back there but didn't know if that would work. It should, because the cable will still remain tight from the front clamp.
Definitely do NOT do this.

And I'll stress the comment about changing the brake levers to get the right pull for linear brakes. That seems to be a common oversight. Hopefully they're not combined with the shifters on this bike.
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Old 10-08-18, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewclaus View Post
Definitely do NOT do this.

And I'll stress the comment about changing the brake levers to get the right pull for linear brakes. That seems to be a common oversight. Hopefully they're not combined with the shifters on this bike.
Yes, I do have the proper levers. I didn't realize they sold those clamp on cable stops so I think that will be easiest route Thanks for the help.
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Old 10-08-18, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jm88 View Post
Yes, I do have the proper levers. I didn't realize they sold those clamp on cable stops so I think that will be easiest route Thanks for the help.
Yep.... just make sure you order one with the proper diameter for the tube you are attaching it to.
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Old 10-15-18, 12:12 PM
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Just thought I would report back on this. I did end up getting this clamp and installing it at the rear of the top tube. I cut about a 6 inch piece of housing and ran it from the clamp to the brakes, but I was wondering if it is ok if the brake pad barely drags against the rim. I think because of the angle of the housing, it is sort of pushing the brake pad against the rim a little if that makes sense. The front one does not have that problem because it is coming from straight up above and there is no pressure, but this one has a little. I could let up a little pressure by allowing some slack, but then the cable running across the tube is loose and bounces around. That needs to be somewhat right, doesn't it?

Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
I hope your brake levers are also linear brake cable pull speced. As you know this frame was made in the canti lever era. To add a second and rear located casing stop we would use a "Backstop" or similar clamp on band with stop built in. Like the J&B Importers offered example (their part # 14472 for a 28.6mm diameter tube). Andy


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Old 10-15-18, 12:37 PM
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You're effectively (exactly?) recreating the above, and it should work perfectly, as long as you've got the right levers. Have you got photos?
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Old 10-15-18, 05:41 PM
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Here is a picture. I think the difference is that yours is running across the top of the bar and so it goes straight down when you go into the brake where mine is about 1/4 of the way down the bar (that is where it lines up with the front cable stop) so it is coming slightly from the side into the brake. Will that hurt anything, or should I try to loop it a little more to see if I can get a downward angle?
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Old 10-15-18, 08:26 PM
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One should be able to adjust the arm spring balance to combat any casing "spring" effect. Although I would have placed the clamp/stop a cm further back and allowed a tad more casing curve. Andy
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Old 10-15-18, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jm88 View Post
That will work just fine!
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Old 10-15-18, 11:42 PM
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I would have went back with canti's.
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Old 10-16-18, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
One should be able to adjust the arm spring balance to combat any casing "spring" effect. Although I would have placed the clamp/stop a cm further back and allowed a tad more casing curve. Andy
I didn't cut the cable yet and have a lot more housing so I will move it back and mess with the spring. That makes sense! Thank you.
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