I'm no expert...
#1
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I'm no expert...

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Looks fine to me, but that scratch on the seat stay would really piss me off....
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We see often enough to make some assumptions, usually they are correct.
Some how the wheel/spokes and the der cage engaged each other. Both the cage and the der body look to be twisted. The most common reason is a bent inward der/hanger allowing what was a correct low gear limit setting to now overlap with the spokes. Of course if the low limit setting wasn't correct (and people/shops that only use the shift control to cycle the der through it's range, during the limit adjustments, can make this mistake) and the cable got an extra tug or the der got an extra push then the der will enter the spokes. But a previous impact on the der's outer face, which bends the der inward, is a VERY common cause. The der/spoke engagement often happens some time later so the cause and effect cycle can be days, weeks or longer. Hence most riders won't connect the two.
Sometimes a power shift (not shifting during reduced pedal pressure) can cause the chain to jam or cause a chain link(s) to become damaged/twisted. But generally this won't tear off the cage and cause such twisting in the cage/der body. Sometimes a stick can be kicked up and enter the chain loop and the spokes and result in much the same as shown. (This happened to me, off road).
So what do you think happened?
Things to look for are a spoke with a wiggle/squiggle along it's length. Scratches on the der's outer face. The cage has a flair to the inner plate, usually next to the guide pulley.
Things to look for during the repairs are a bent axle, now out of true wheel (and maybe spoke replacement too), bent der hanger, bent drop out slot, twisted chain, mangled cable, and more. Andy
I have a sad/funny story about this kind of event for the asking.
Some how the wheel/spokes and the der cage engaged each other. Both the cage and the der body look to be twisted. The most common reason is a bent inward der/hanger allowing what was a correct low gear limit setting to now overlap with the spokes. Of course if the low limit setting wasn't correct (and people/shops that only use the shift control to cycle the der through it's range, during the limit adjustments, can make this mistake) and the cable got an extra tug or the der got an extra push then the der will enter the spokes. But a previous impact on the der's outer face, which bends the der inward, is a VERY common cause. The der/spoke engagement often happens some time later so the cause and effect cycle can be days, weeks or longer. Hence most riders won't connect the two.
Sometimes a power shift (not shifting during reduced pedal pressure) can cause the chain to jam or cause a chain link(s) to become damaged/twisted. But generally this won't tear off the cage and cause such twisting in the cage/der body. Sometimes a stick can be kicked up and enter the chain loop and the spokes and result in much the same as shown. (This happened to me, off road).
So what do you think happened?
Things to look for are a spoke with a wiggle/squiggle along it's length. Scratches on the der's outer face. The cage has a flair to the inner plate, usually next to the guide pulley.
Things to look for during the repairs are a bent axle, now out of true wheel (and maybe spoke replacement too), bent der hanger, bent drop out slot, twisted chain, mangled cable, and more. Andy
I have a sad/funny story about this kind of event for the asking.
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AndrewRStewart
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Almost every der snagging the spokes I've seen happens beyond the spoke protector disk. The disk is to minimize chain/spoke overshifting damage, not cage/spoke issues. Andy
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clean bike tho

#8
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I don't have to think- I have the bruises! I'm not much of a trail rider and I was in over my head. The trail was slick and I wiped out. I didn't see how bent the rail hanger was, and I thought I could limp out of the park. I gently cycled through the gears okay, but when I put some pressure on I felt the derailleur explode under me. It's a pretty low end Scott that I bought new for not much. When I researched for a new derailleur I found a post where someone asked what would be an upgrade from a Shimano Tourney. The reply was, "literally anything on the market would be an upgrade from a Tourney!"
What's your story?
What's your story?
#9
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#10
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#12
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I don't have to think- I have the bruises! I'm not much of a trail rider and I was in over my head. The trail was slick and I wiped out. I didn't see how bent the rail hanger was, and I thought I could limp out of the park. I gently cycled through the gears okay, but when I put some pressure on I felt the derailleur explode under me. It's a pretty low end Scott that I bought new for not much. When I researched for a new derailleur I found a post where someone asked what would be an upgrade from a Shimano Tourney. The reply was, "literally anything on the market would be an upgrade from a Tourney!"
What's your story?
What's your story?


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AndrewRStewart
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#14
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How did it perform until........
Looks like you need a replacement hangar too.
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Some duct tape, a bit of JBWeld, and it'll buff right out.
#16
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More damage could have happened. Those Tourneys tend to, as your picture shows, pull apart at the plastic knuckle. A more robust derailleur might twist itself into a pretzel and do more damage to the wheel, frame, or chain. I agree that the Tourney is a perfectly serviceable (if ugly looking) derailleur. It may look different, but shares quite a bit of design with the Lark, itself a cousin of the Campagnolo derailleur Andy posted.
$0.02
$0.02
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when this happened last spring

this is where mine broke

2 1/2 miles from my car I was able to smoosh it all back & limp in one gear


LBS fixed me up tho

& then I added quick release tabs to the fender stays

this is where mine broke

2 1/2 miles from my car I was able to smoosh it all back & limp in one gear


LBS fixed me up tho


& then I added quick release tabs to the fender stays


#19
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My LBS supplied an Altus. I straightened the rail hanger, installed the Altus, and replaced the chain and cable. I got everything up and running. On the stand. Riding it there's some problems that I can't identify. At this point I think I'll take it to the shop and have them take a look. I'm not an experienced enough mechanic, since I can't even find the problem. I'll see what they say, but I'd like to be able to ride the bike again!
#20
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The Tourney has served me well the past two years. I know it gets a bad rap, but 70 miles of commuting per week plus if I ride the commuter on the weekend adds up. Has not had issues of going out of adjustment or anything. I keep my drivetrain pretty clean, so it also gets frequent inspections. There are a few Tourney derraillers out there, make sure it can handle your freewheel/cassette.
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were you tubeless too? I hear it may cause more harm than good for a bicycle, which might suggest why you have that scratch on the chain stay?
that broken der is no good either.
that broken der is no good either.
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-Oh Hey!
-Oh Hey!
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My LBS supplied an Altus. I straightened the rail hanger, installed the Altus, and replaced the chain and cable. I got everything up and running. On the stand. Riding it there's some problems that I can't identify. At this point I think I'll take it to the shop and have them take a look. I'm not an experienced enough mechanic, since I can't even find the problem. I'll see what they say, but I'd like to be able to ride the bike again!
#23
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I took it to my LBS. He said I had done a good job straightening the hanger, then tweaked the tuning a little and said it looked good. Then he discovered that I made the chain too short! I thought I had followed the Park Tools video pretty accurately, but turns out not. He added a couple of links back in and it runs like a dream.
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