Tight tire fit while changing flat on the road
 

I just changed a flat on my bike - the flat occurred when I was fairly close to my car so I waited until I got home to change the tube. The tire was really tight putting back on the rim so I looked up recommendations for pulling those last inches of tire over the rim. Soapy water seemed to be a common recommendation, which is fine when you're at home. If I had to change the tire on the road, I would have had a really, really hard time mounting the tire. Was wondering if any of you brought any kind of lubricant on your rides to help with difficult/tight tire mounting and, if yes, what you brought with you on your rides. Thanks in advance for advice.

Personally, I, long ago , bought a couple VAR Bike tire jack tools..
I keep in my patch kit with spare tube, etc.

https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/...bbT/s-l225.jpg
I use them like I would my hands, bringing them towards each other,
to progressively bring that last bit of tire bead over the rim .



...

Nice idea, hadn't seen those before .... thanks!

if my tires were tight going on, I add metal levers to my saddlebag repair kit.

Are you making sure the bead is off the ledge on the rim and sitting in the lower center of the rim when you have to muscle that last bit on? I get most of the tire on, going both directions from the valve. With 8-12" to go, I go back the valve, push it in and push the tire down into the center, then work the rest of the bead down as I go back tot he last 8-12". Usually then, that last bit isn't too hard.

You may well know all this already. There are tire/rim combinations that are very difficult even doing this. That VAR tool looks like a winner. If I were you, however, I would consider that tire/rim combo a no-no and look for another brand of tire that went on easier. (Murphy's Law. Flats happen. Tools get lost, stolen, borrowed, break. Or are sitting in the tool bag ready to be used; on one of my other bikes.)

Ben

for me, I have to remind myself to keep the tire down in the channel as deep as it will go, so on the first side I work on I use a strap or two to keep it down in there. this gives me more slack on the opposite side of the wheel
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...68b3049d4b.jpg

I also started using these CRANKBROTHERs Crank Brothers Speedier Lever in addition to my regular levers

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...aca151799e.jpg

I also started using a Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack to help lift the tire rather my fingers (sorry, no photo of them in action)

Good point - Yes, next time I'll try to be more conscious of ensuring the tire bead is towards the center of the rim while slipping the other bead on - I 'kind of did that' but probably not very effectively. What's pathetic (about my abilities!) is that this was the tire that was already on the rim - just replaced the tube - it was the stock tire that came with the bike (this actually was the fifth season). Kind of dreading putting on brand new tires :)

[QUOTE=rumrunn6;20624054]I need more flats so I get better at this myself, hahahaha only kidding. I need more bikes & more seasonal tire swapping, yeah that would teach me better ... :innocent: actually sometimes I'm fast at it & sometimes not so much

Same here regarding practice and that's the thing ... knock on wood, I rarely get flats (this was the fifth season - around 4,000 miles - with the stock tires and my first flat with this bike). I try to prioritize puncture resistance in my tires and replace them before they're extremely worn. The last few flats I've gotten on this and my other, primary, road bike have been from the stem vs. going over nails/glass/etc .... thinking now I should maybe change tubes more proactively.

Bead jack, as other folks suggested. I have a Kool Stop bead jack at home. It does fit my jersey pocket, but it's a bit bulky and I might get a VAR or Crank Bros tool for the road.

In a pinch some hard, smooth plastic tire levers with wide spoons can do the trick. But I have to be very careful to avoid nicking the tube. I've had to redo a tire once when I nicked a fresh hole right after patching another. Annoying but that's the risk of using a makeshift tool.

Also, after the first couple of times hoisting a tight tire over the rim, some rubber will be abraded off the bead, just enough to make it easier the next time. I've noticed this with the tight fitting Schwalbe One V-Guards and Conti Ultra Sport II on my road bike.

Friday I used the Kool Stop bead jack at home to hoist a new set of Conti Contact Sport II tires over the rim. Besides being a snug fit the new rubber is very grippy so there's a lot of friction. But I'm betting it'll ease up next time I need to patch or replace the tire. Meanwhile I'll carry the bead jack with me. Much easier with cold, wet hands outdoors.

Another variation on this is to NOT try to get the last bit on opposite the valve but instead at a quarter turn to the valve, and make sure the opposite side is sitting in the center. The valve just gets in the way.

I've found that the Kool Stop bead jack doesn't need its long handle, so I cut it off. The VAR just doesn't seem to work as well. I don't need to get tires on quickly, just to go from impossible to possible.

3Of course one needs to make sure the tube isn't caught between the tire bead and the rim's center well. If the tube is ribbon flat when placing it in the tire/rim combo then it's quite easy to have it get caught under the second tire bead as you start that side of the tire. I always insert the tube with a slight amount of air in it. Just enough to have it take a 3D shape but not expand or be firm. Andy

All you should need is a high quality set of leavers that wont flex and just years of pratice ...

Thanks all for the helpful responses - appreciate you taking the time to respond!

Or a little practice and a good method.