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What are the centerlock disc brake people using?

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What are the centerlock disc brake people using?

Old 11-06-18, 06:33 AM
  #1  
pennpaul
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What are the centerlock disc brake people using?

With all the downhills (and uphills) here, I've already had to replace the front pads on my gravel bike after only 700 miles. My rear pads probably have another 100-200 miles left in them. Then as I'm measuring the front and rear rotors, it's obvious the front will need to be replaced within the next 250 miles. My bike uses the Shimano Icetech pads and rotors. As I'm browsing Amazon, it's clear I am going to be spending a tidy sum on just brakes parts. I do weigh 245lbs so I know that's a contributing factor.

I want to stick with Shimano parts. I'm fine with using the same Shimano pads, but do I *need* to be using their Icetech rotors? They have all steel rotors for about half the price. Are there 6 bolt rotors that are near the same quality as the Icetech centerlock rotors but less expensive? I could get a centerlock to 6-bolt adapter if in the long run the price works out better.
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Old 11-06-18, 06:46 AM
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Shimano makes lower cost rotors in centerlock. Just make sure you choose a rotor that matches your pad choice. They make different rotors for resin and metallic pads.
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Old 11-06-18, 08:26 AM
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Even with a 245 lb rider, I question whether rotors should be worn in under 1000 miles. It seems very premature.
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Old 11-06-18, 09:23 AM
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Adapters ; centerlock to 6 bolt . many sources, even Shimano makes them .

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Old 11-06-18, 10:12 AM
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The fast pad wear sounds like you are using resin pads.
At 245 lbs, I highly suggest the largest rotors your bike will accept (adapters reqd and are cheap) and metal pads.
Good luck.
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Old 11-06-18, 10:25 AM
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How are you measuring your rotors?
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Old 11-06-18, 11:32 AM
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You can get the American Classic centerlock to 6 bolt adapter for $8 on ebay. "Floating" 6 bolt is generally cheaper than Ice tech. You can find some as low as $15/rotor
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Old 11-06-18, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TimothyH View Post
Even with a 245 lb rider, I question whether rotors should be worn in under 1000 miles. It seems very premature.
That's what I'm thinking, too. I measured 1.65mm rotor thickness in the front and 1.75mm in the back. The front pad had about 1mm material left (by eye). I can honestly say it has only rained once on a ride and that was yesterday. The other 10 months I've been riding have been dry as a bone. I am also mostly on the road. I don't think I'm exaggerating about the hills, though. My regular 22mile ride has 2200ft of climbing (and descending).
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Old 11-06-18, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Adapters ; centerlock to 6 bolt . many sources, even Shimano makes them .

Do you know the part number of that adapter kit? That's the one I'd want because the lock ring removes with a cassette removal tool like my current one. The other one I saw requires a bottom bracket removal tool (and I don't want to buy another tool)
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Old 11-06-18, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Spoonrobot View Post
How are you measuring your rotors?
Digital calipers.
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Old 11-10-18, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by pennpaul View Post
Do you know the part number of that adapter kit? That's the one I'd want because the lock ring removes with a cassette removal tool like my current one. The other one I saw requires a bottom bracket removal tool (and I don't want to buy another tool)
Keep in mind if you have a 15mm thru axle on the front (or rear) you must use the lock ring that tightens with the hollowtech bb wrench (outside grip) as there will not be enough clearance for the cassette removal tool to slide over a 15mm axle cap.

There are 2 versions -
RTAD05 - Hollowtech BB tool

RTAD10 - Cassette Tool


Here is a link to the D10 instructions from shimano - Shimano SM-RTAD10

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Old 11-10-18, 09:52 AM
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I went through Shimano resin pads in 350 miles. Total system weight 255 lbs on a MTB. Rear spring was marking up the rotor. Front almost.
203 front, 180 rear. Couple of long downhills on fireroads, some 20-25%.......... will do it.
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Old 11-10-18, 10:37 AM
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I'm about 50 lbs lighter, but go through pads and rotors like you do. The Ice Tech ones are better at heat dissipation and therefore stopping. I would stick with them. The only thing that makes them last longer is riding flatter routes, or developing more confidence (which means less prolonged braking). You might be able to put a larger rotor on, at least on the front. That could help, but it could also make the brakes too grabby, so be careful. Organic pads give you more modulation, but wear faster. Metal pads last longer, give better stopping power under wet conditions, but probably wear out the rotors faster.

Shimano is very conservative with their rotor replacement tolerance. You can use them a bit more before braking power is reduced. I kind of go by the feel of where my brake lever travels to. If it approaches the handlebar so close that it might impede braking, I replace the rotor.

I buy rotors and pads from Universal cycle. They usually have the best prices.
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Old 11-10-18, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Wilmingtech View Post
Keep in mind if you have a 15mm thru axle on the front (or rear) you must use the lock ring that tightens with the hollowtech bb wrench (outside grip) as there will not be enough clearance for the cassette removal tool to slide over a 15mm axle cap.
Thanks. I have 12mm thru axles so I can keep using the cassette style lock ring.
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Old 11-10-18, 03:29 PM
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the reason for ice tech rotors is heat management. you can use whatever you want. it's your bike
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