redallez

Hi,

I have a 2013 Specialized Allez Comp (mid-compact) with the standard mix of 105 and Tiagra/FSA components. I'd like to upgrade everything to 105 but don't quite understand what components I can and cannot upgrade on my bike. I would also like to upgrade it from 10 speed to 11 speed.

Current components are:

• FSA Goassamer BB30
• Chainrings 52/36
• F. Derailleur Tiagra
• Rear Cogs: Tiagra 10 speed 11-28

So I thought by getting a 105 11-speed 11-28 cassette I could convert it to 11 speed easily. Logically I thought it would be feasible since it is also 11-28 like my current cassette but mechanically I was told it cannot be done. I want to upgrade the front Derailleur to 105 as well as the Crankset.

What 105 components do I need to get to make these upgrades, and if not possible can someone explain why? If Shimano does not offer this type of combination in 105, does Ultegra offer it?

thank you so much!
RedAllez

dedhed

More importantly what are your shifters and REAR derailleur?

redallez

Front Derailleur is Tiagra
Rear Derailleur is 105
Shifters are 105 STI

LesterOfPuppets

Not all road wheels will accept an 11 speed cassette. The best way to make sure is to actually attempt putting an 11-sp cassette on there and tightening the lockring (make sure you remove any spacers that may be behind the old cassette). With some wheels you can easily source a replacement 11-sp freehub body for $30-50ish

After that hurdle, all ya need is rear derailleur, right shifter, chain. Shimano would probably suggest an 11-sp crankset also, but that might not be entirely necessary.

3alarmer 

...I'd suggest you ask yourself what is your purpose in going from 10 to 11 on the rear. For the great majority of riders, it's not an especially functional "upgrade". Mostly, whoever told you that it was mechanically "impossible" looked at your bike, did a quick mental calculation of the cost of parts and labor involved to make the switch, and gave you some good advice. They should probably have used the word "impractical", rather than "impossible". Impossible always tends to set people off on quests.

There's an unfortunate tendency in the world of bicycle to equate more with better in the realm of rear cogs. I'm unconvinced.

redallez

I get that and would be willing to stick with 10 speed, but still I'd like the groupset to be 105. I had a 2008 Allez Comp and from what I recall the entire groupset was 105. I bought a used 2013 and now I see it is a mix of non-Shimano parts and non-105 components. I have no issue with Tiagra and FSA I just want it all to be 105 on my bike.

With that said, if I stick with 10 speed how does it change the original question? can it be done and what is needed?

thanks again!

Elvo

All of those are upgradeable to 105. There are also 11 speed cassettes that work on 10 speed freehubs so you might not have to replace your wheels.

redallez

Great! Since it is a 2013 do I need to get older Shimano 105 components or can I go with 5800/5700 series? and what exactly do I need to get?

Elvo

You need to go with at least 5800 for 11 speed. I'd recommend 7000. Since you want to replace everything, replace everything which includes your shifters, derailleurs, chain, cassette, and crankset.

fietsbob

Bare Frame .. Every thing else is a parts pick to meet a price target..

crack that wallet wide open and get out those credit cards...






..

redallez

What determines the crank size? such as 175 vs 170mm?

base2 

I'm not sure about going from 10 to 11 for the sake of doing so is the best use of dollars. I'm not saying "no" or anything, I'm just saying you might not see any benefit.

I will say, however, some reason like, "I hate my shifters" or some such thing is totally completly valid. I had Sora shifters & once I tried Ultegra on another bike, I knew what I had to do.

For another valid reason: "My gearing isn't low enough."
The others are right, your wheel may not accept an 11 speed cassette. If it doesn't, 11 speed XT/XTR cassettes should fit a 10 speed road hub. The caveat is the smallest XT/XTR cassettes are probably too big for your road derailleur. Even with a XT/XTR derailleur, I think you'd still need a Jtek shiftmate to work with the road shifter. Still cheaper than a wheel. My commuter is set up with matching Ultegra 6800 shifters, 50-34 crankset, & front derailleur paired with an XT 11-40 cassette, M9000+ & Shiftmate 8, for this very reason.

Another valid reason: "I want a particular cog on my cassette." I have a bike that I switched from 11-28 to 11-32. I almost never use the 32 tooth cog, but I find I miss the 16 tooth cog on the 11-28 Shimano removed to make room on the cassette block for the 32.

I'm not poo-poo-ing your desire. I like spending money on my bikes, but to go from 10 to 11 fore the sake of 1 more gear & that being the only reason, I think you might be underwhelmed by the "upgrade."

jimc101

For upgrading a 5 year old bike from 10 to 11 speed, would look at 2 things,

1st is the rear wheel, unless it has a Mavic factory wheel, then it will need to be replaced, as almost nothing from back then was 11 speed compatible. (11 speed was released mid-2013, so none of the 2013 model bike from major manufacture were fitted with it). There is one exception, that Shimano make, the 11-34t, but that is a pretty specialist cassette for those who need low gearing.

2nd, would look at the condition of all the other components, and add up what is needed vs just buying a complete bike with 11 speed fitted. If your 5 year old bike is heavily used, it could be cheaper to just replace then complete bike, especially given you current knowledge if the parts needed, (there are a lot more than listed, effectively the whole groupset less the crank & maybe brakes needs to be replaced if changing speed) and the cost of getting anything fitted at a LBS if your not doing it yourself.

As with others, not sure what benefit you are going to see from going from 10 to 11 speed, unless your replacing due to wear, your get one more gear (spocket) within the cassette, but the overall ratios won't change

SJX426 

Stick with 10V and upgrade the non-105 with 105 to meet your desire.
Crank length is determined by the rider. I am near 6' with long legs and prefer 172.5 to 175. Honestly, many don't directly feel the difference between the two you mentioned. There are opinions that 170 is better and 165 better yet to keep the stress off the knees in combination with higher cadence. If you have only one bike, it really doesn't matter. I doubt you lean far enough on turns to make a difference. If it would, you need to make sure your inside pedal is up! The other consideration is interference with the front wheel. This happens on smaller frames and tight geometry of the frame. Even then, it is not a significant problem as you don't turn that tight that often.

Retro Grouch 

That's my opinion too. Most component upgrades don't make economic sense.