Hard to remove pump nozzle from stem
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Hard to remove pump nozzle from stem
Is there a way to make it easier to remove a tire pump nozzle from the tire stem after pumping up the tire? I often have a really hard time with it. I flip up the little lever on the back of the nozzle, and then pull (while hearing the air I pumped in start leaking out), but it takes a while to get it off. I've heard it's best to put a thumb on each side and push it off, but that hasn't been any easier. And now I have a flat because of a leak between the stem and tube that is no doubt caused by all the tugging and pulling. I'd like to avoid this in the future.
#2
Banned
Wild guess
You may be hearing the hose full of air going out, as you remove it,
not from the tire
since there is a check valve in the tube stem.
not from the tire
since there is a check valve in the tube stem.
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I put one of these on my pump: https://www.lezyne.com/product-dpump...p#.XAh0Y2hKhhE AFAIK the only difference between the HP and HV types is the hose barb diameter. Goes on either Schrader or Presta without adapters and comes off (unscrews) easily, losing little air.
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We don't yet know what brand/type of pump or type of valve. So we don't know if the air heard during initial removal is just out of the pump hose or is also out of the valve.
If a Schrader valve is in play then because of the need to have the pump hose chuck engage the valve's pin there is a chance that some of the first part of the hiss is from the tube. Until the chuck's pin disengages that of the valve the valve can still be open to the tube's air passage. A presta valve is closed by the tube's air pressure being greater then tghat in the pump hose, unless one is wiggling the chuck enough to be pushing the tube's knurled nut sideways enough to open the valve a bit.
I often use spit as a chuck lube. It's readily available and harmless but does a relatively good job at short term rubber lubing. Just spin into the chuck before placing it onto the valve. Andy
If a Schrader valve is in play then because of the need to have the pump hose chuck engage the valve's pin there is a chance that some of the first part of the hiss is from the tube. Until the chuck's pin disengages that of the valve the valve can still be open to the tube's air passage. A presta valve is closed by the tube's air pressure being greater then tghat in the pump hose, unless one is wiggling the chuck enough to be pushing the tube's knurled nut sideways enough to open the valve a bit.
I often use spit as a chuck lube. It's readily available and harmless but does a relatively good job at short term rubber lubing. Just spin into the chuck before placing it onto the valve. Andy
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Ben- I do the same. You should see the faces on the students when I'm teaching our club's Flat Tire Clinics. Andy
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Double post. But I'll edit it to say something useful. If the OP's pump is a frame pump that fits directly onto the valve, no hose, the easy, clean way to remove it is to just give the pump a quick blow with your hand near the valve (and in line with the valve). Fast, clean, no or very little air lost. Yet another reason to pump up with the valve at the top, so your hand chop is straight down and easy.
Ben
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Last edited by 79pmooney; 12-05-18 at 10:17 PM.
#12
Newbie
Smooth stems
Is there a way to make it easier to remove a tire pump nozzle from the tire stem after pumping up the tire? I often have a really hard time with it. I flip up the little lever on the back of the nozzle, and then pull (while hearing the air I pumped in start leaking out), but it takes a while to get it off. I've heard it's best to put a thumb on each side and push it off, but that hasn't been any easier. And now I have a flat because of a leak between the stem and tube that is no doubt caused by all the tugging and pulling. I'd like to avoid this in the future.
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Many valve stems are threaded over their entire length, to hold a locknut. These threads are a wider diameter than the ones that hold the valve cap, and can erode the pump gasket to the point where it no longer effectively seals against the valve stem.
A smooth stem only has threads for the valve cap, and since these are a smaller diameter than the main shaft, any erosion they cause doesn't really affect how the gasket can seal with the valve stem shaft.
A smooth stem only has threads for the valve cap, and since these are a smaller diameter than the main shaft, any erosion they cause doesn't really affect how the gasket can seal with the valve stem shaft.
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If it's a threaded stem, I've been using the "minimal distance" too. It's a bit tricky to figure out how far is enough to make a seal. But it's much easier to remove after pumping.
(My Park Tool pump's lever lifts up to lock on, flips down to the hose to release.)
Last edited by rm -rf; 12-06-18 at 09:14 AM.
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Why does everyone assume the OP's tubes have presta valves? Andy
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we don't yet know what brand/type of pump or type of valve. So we don't know if the air heard during initial removal is just out of the pump hose or is also out of the valve.
If a schrader valve is in play then because of the need to have the pump hose chuck engage the valve's pin there is a chance that some of the first part of the hiss is from the tube. Until the chuck's pin disengages that of the valve the valve can still be open to the tube's air passage. A presta valve is closed by the tube's air pressure being greater then tghat in the pump hose, unless one is wiggling the chuck enough to be pushing the tube's knurled nut sideways enough to open the valve a bit.
I often use spit as a chuck lube. It's readily available and harmless but does a relatively good job at short term rubber lubing. Just spin into the chuck before placing it onto the valve. Andy
If a schrader valve is in play then because of the need to have the pump hose chuck engage the valve's pin there is a chance that some of the first part of the hiss is from the tube. Until the chuck's pin disengages that of the valve the valve can still be open to the tube's air passage. A presta valve is closed by the tube's air pressure being greater then tghat in the pump hose, unless one is wiggling the chuck enough to be pushing the tube's knurled nut sideways enough to open the valve a bit.
I often use spit as a chuck lube. It's readily available and harmless but does a relatively good job at short term rubber lubing. Just spin into the chuck before placing it onto the valve. Andy
#18
Banned
I have 2 pumps, owned for 30 years ..
Medai, a thumb lock , for schrader valves.. (no problems)
and a Silca Track pump for Presta..
I was pushing the P/V bell shaped head on to far,
onto the ring nut thread. wearing out the rubber gasket .. hard to remove
between that & the course cap thread , there is a smooth band..
that is where the pump head gasket gets its best seal , and as cap thread is smaller
pulling it off with pressure in the hose is easy.
gasket does not wear out that way,either..
Medai, a thumb lock , for schrader valves.. (no problems)
and a Silca Track pump for Presta..
I was pushing the P/V bell shaped head on to far,
onto the ring nut thread. wearing out the rubber gasket .. hard to remove
between that & the course cap thread , there is a smooth band..
that is where the pump head gasket gets its best seal , and as cap thread is smaller
pulling it off with pressure in the hose is easy.
gasket does not wear out that way,either..
#19
Banned
in person service, ftw
Bene Sugg:
OP can take bike and pump to the LBS, and they can see what you are doing,
and correct technique, if that is your only issue,
which blind guessing on this forum falls short on,
not being in the room with you..
...
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#21
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Schwalbe sells S/V tubes like that now , though they call them A/V, (Auto Valve)
by having the ring nut a push on compressor inflation head has something to push against.
My old (68) BMW Motorbike had threaded A/V stem tubes ,
the under the saddle pump was held against those stems , in the same way..
a Great old steel and aluminum mini-pump, for road repairs..
by having the ring nut a push on compressor inflation head has something to push against.
My old (68) BMW Motorbike had threaded A/V stem tubes ,
the under the saddle pump was held against those stems , in the same way..
a Great old steel and aluminum mini-pump, for road repairs..
#22
Old Bike Craphound
If your pump is a floor pump, you may be able to replace the pump head and hose with one that works better for you. Not all pump heads work the same and are as consistent to release the valve stem. I bought a cheap pump a decade ago that when I looked at reviews had many users complaining that the pump head does not release the presta valve stem, but the same store sold replacement hose and head for a better pump (total price was still half the cost of the more expensive pump). Recently I replaced the sealing gasket for the pump head because it had worn from pumping hundreds of tires over the years. If you are in Canada, MEC has great pump head and hose that they sell separate.
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OP here.
I'm not a bike expert by any means, but from looking up images of the 2 different valve types, it looks like mine is Schrader. It looks just like one you'd find on a car tire, although it's only threaded at the top rather than all the way from top to bottom like the one in your picture.
I'm not a bike expert by any means, but from looking up images of the 2 different valve types, it looks like mine is Schrader. It looks just like one you'd find on a car tire, although it's only threaded at the top rather than all the way from top to bottom like the one in your picture.
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The cap threads are narrower than the main valve stem threads. I use smooth valves exclusively, with a standard Silca push-on chuck. The chuck seal doesn't hang up on the cap threads, slides easily onto the valve stem, stays in place up to the requisite 100 psi, then pulls off easily. I hate chewing up the chuck seal on a threaded valve stem
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OP here.
I'm not a bike expert by any means, but from looking up images of the 2 different valve types, it looks like mine is Schrader. It looks just like one you'd find on a car tire, although it's only threaded at the top rather than all the way from top to bottom like the one in your picture.
I'm not a bike expert by any means, but from looking up images of the 2 different valve types, it looks like mine is Schrader. It looks just like one you'd find on a car tire, although it's only threaded at the top rather than all the way from top to bottom like the one in your picture.
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