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Rear QR won't tighten- too long?

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Rear QR won't tighten- too long?

Old 12-23-18, 08:12 PM
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Piff 
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Rear QR won't tighten- too long?

Do quick releases lose their ability to tighten over time? I bought a wheel off craigslist and am having trouble getting it to hold.

The bike in question is a '74 Raleigh Super Course, spread to 130mm from 120mm. I realigned the dropouts afterwards, and had it doublechecked by my LBS, so it's not that. At first, the QR was so loose that when tightened I didn't encounter any resistance. After bolting on the derailleur claw the QR did resist a little bit, but only near the very end. It's tight enough in there that I can't move the wheel, but I'm willing to bet that street conditions could move it.

So as far as I can tell the QR is just too long, yes? Should I hacksaw a bit off the end and call it a day? Or is there something wrong that I'm not noticing.

Thanks.
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Old 12-23-18, 08:13 PM
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Cutting a bit off of the end doesn't help. It isn't threaded far enough.
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Old 12-23-18, 08:48 PM
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Perhaps your Craigslist 130mm wheel was sold with a 135mm skewer and you just need a shorter one.
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Old 12-23-18, 08:52 PM
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Can I simply not cut a bit off the end of my current skewer, then? I'm having a hard time understanding why I couldn't.
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Old 12-23-18, 09:16 PM
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The skewer isn't bottoming out. It isn't threaded far enough to tighten. It is too long...never mind.
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Old 12-23-18, 09:41 PM
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Could the axle be too long, beyond the lock nuts? If so the QR shaft can bottom out on the axle ends before the skewer caps start to really grip the frame. It is easy to measure the amount of skewer at the adjusting end relative to the cap/nut. The remove the skewer and spin on the cap/nut and see how many threads are (or not) remaining inside the that end cap/nut.

The Super Course of that year had fairly thin plate drop outs, not the thicker forged or AL ones of most modern bikes. It isn't uncommon to have to shorten the axel a tad to keep it's ends within the drop outs' faces and allow the QR to fully clamp. Andy.
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Old 12-23-18, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 02Giant View Post
The skewer isn't bottoming out. It isn't threaded far enough to tighten. It is too long...never mind.
I've threaded it as far as it can, it won't turn any further.

Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
Could the axle be too long, beyond the lock nuts? If so the QR shaft can bottom out on the axle ends before the skewer caps start to really grip the frame. It is easy to measure the amount of skewer at the adjusting end relative to the cap/nut. The remove the skewer and spin on the cap/nut and see how many threads are (or not) remaining inside the that end cap/nut.

The Super Course of that year had fairly thin plate drop outs, not the thicker forged or AL ones of most modern bikes. It isn't uncommon to have to shorten the axel a tad to keep it's ends within the drop outs' faces and allow the QR to fully clamp. Andy.
Thanks, I'll check and see but I'm pretty sure the axles aren't protruding.
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Old 12-23-18, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Piff View Post
I've threaded it as far as it can, it won't turn any further.

...
Is it threading in until it runs out of threads? Perhaps this QR was made for 135 mm hubs. This would mean that the QR ends are too far apart even with the lever closed completely. (Maybe actually touching the dropouts but instead of clamping on tightly, they are just "there". barely doing the job.)

If this is the case, you need a QR skewer that is shorter, at least from the lever end to the start of the threads. (How much is sticking out matters very little.)

With the proper skewer, you can tighten the nut (with the lever open) until it stops at the dropout, but you will be unable to close the lever at all until you loosen it to the proper location (so the lever can be closed by hand with effort).

You mentioned using a derailleur claw. I could imagine that pushing the limits of a skewer. Bring you bike to a shop and try prospective levers there before buyinh.

Ben
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