36t chainring for SRAM Rival 1
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36t chainring for SRAM Rival 1
I've got a SRAM Rival 1 drivetrain (38t, 11-42) on my 2019 Kona Rove ST: https://www.sram.com/sram/road/produ...val-1-crankset
Started with the stock 40t, then had my LBS put on the 38t in the front, the lowest SRAM has in apparently all their road 1x offerings. Was definitely a big improvement. However, for where I ride here in the SoCal mountains there's times I sure wouldn't mind a lower granny gear, and that's with the bike not loaded up--I haven't even done a bikepacking trip on this rig yet. Would gladly give up some top end for a tad more low end. Any suggestions for finding a 36t that will work with this setup? Do I need a whole new crankset to accomplish this? Or, is replacing the 42t cog in the back with an even bigger one something to consider? Would that work? A real "bail out" gear? I'm 58, so while I'm all for getting stronger, I think there's only so much farther I'm gonna get on that front
Started with the stock 40t, then had my LBS put on the 38t in the front, the lowest SRAM has in apparently all their road 1x offerings. Was definitely a big improvement. However, for where I ride here in the SoCal mountains there's times I sure wouldn't mind a lower granny gear, and that's with the bike not loaded up--I haven't even done a bikepacking trip on this rig yet. Would gladly give up some top end for a tad more low end. Any suggestions for finding a 36t that will work with this setup? Do I need a whole new crankset to accomplish this? Or, is replacing the 42t cog in the back with an even bigger one something to consider? Would that work? A real "bail out" gear? I'm 58, so while I'm all for getting stronger, I think there's only so much farther I'm gonna get on that front

Last edited by pbass; 01-13-19 at 11:25 AM.
#2
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Get stronger?
Given they don't offer you a bolt circle diameter, in the online link I see ... you have to measure it yourself .. So, if its 130, 38t is as small as it gets
It must follow a smaller bolt pattern to the 110mm bcd to use a 36 or 34t chainring rival road double is offered in a 34 - 50 combination so that's 110
but you don't have a road double crank..so settle for your 38t?
...
It must follow a smaller bolt pattern to the 110mm bcd to use a 36 or 34t chainring rival road double is offered in a 34 - 50 combination so that's 110
but you don't have a road double crank..so settle for your 38t?
...
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Rival 1 cranks use a 110 Bolt Circle Diameter, I believe. Wolf Tooth, for one, makes chain-retaining chanrings for 1x drivetrains (their trade name is Drop Stop rings) in 110 BCD as small as 34t, and they also offer a 36t in 110 BCD.
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#7
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We have streets here that in some blocks have a stairway for a sidewalk.. Then I use my get off and push 2 foot gear..
you missed the Hussefelt geared single ring crank (Sram Truvative Dropped it) that has a physical 24t chainring , and an internal overdrive gear ,
that acted like it was 38.4 t as the chainring turns faster than the crankarms passing through the gears connecting them...
Factories did not use them, in OEM Builds.. and after market sales numbers were too low, so it got cut, One can presume...
....
you missed the Hussefelt geared single ring crank (Sram Truvative Dropped it) that has a physical 24t chainring , and an internal overdrive gear ,
that acted like it was 38.4 t as the chainring turns faster than the crankarms passing through the gears connecting them...
Factories did not use them, in OEM Builds.. and after market sales numbers were too low, so it got cut, One can presume...
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-13-19 at 12:38 PM.
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Yes, it does appear the Rival 1 is 110bcd. The Wolf Tooths look like they'd be the ticket. Thanks folks!
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Did you do it, did it work well? I have the same bike as you and am also thinking of buying a smaller chainring. The idea is to use the standard 40T chainring for regular riding and switching to a 36 or 34T for loaded trips.
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I did--the Wolf Tooth 34T. Has worked out great for me and where I ride, which as I say, is the SoCal mountains. Plus I'm riding about 60/40 dirt/road these days. The lack of top end doesn't bug me, but I would definitely go back to the 38 or 40 if I move somewhere flatter.
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Hey pbass!
Just got my first ever gravel bike and I have a similar set-up to yours SRAM Rival 1 drivetrain (42t, 11-42).
Do you know if the shop had to shorten the chain to switch you from 38T to 34T? I'm wondering because if I don't need to do that, then I'd probably do it myself. Otherwise will go to bike shop as well (I think I'll want a 36T chainring in the front)
Also - can you tell me what speed you're at 42x34 when doing 80/90rpm?
Just got my first ever gravel bike and I have a similar set-up to yours SRAM Rival 1 drivetrain (42t, 11-42).
Do you know if the shop had to shorten the chain to switch you from 38T to 34T? I'm wondering because if I don't need to do that, then I'd probably do it myself. Otherwise will go to bike shop as well (I think I'll want a 36T chainring in the front)
Also - can you tell me what speed you're at 42x34 when doing 80/90rpm?