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component selection for 2019 Spec Crux Suggestions?

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component selection for 2019 Spec Crux Suggestions?

Old 01-19-19, 12:55 PM
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Aero-X
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component selection for 2019 Spec Crux Suggestions?

Hi guys,

I have an opportunity to buy a slightly used 2019 Specialized Crux carbon frameset for a pretty good price. This will be my first disc equipped bike. I'm a roadie and have only used caliper brakes and mechanical shifting in my life. The reason to get this frameset other than a very good price is that it can run wide tires and disc brakes which could handle less ideal road conditions(rough and wet). I plan to sell one of my other two road bikes and use the funds to build the Crux to diversify the fleet a bit. My intended use for the Crux would be primarily a road bike. It's not that I intend to use it on some epic multi-day gravel adventures or showing up at local CX courses every weekend. It would be just another road bike with a bit ruggedness and good for wet day riding.

I would like to hear some suggestions on the build specs. I'm leaning towards electronic shifting and hydraulic discs. I have a little knowledge with these two other than I know there're Di2 and eTap names. I do like no-wire eTap tidiness, but I've been using Shimano all my life. Not sure if I can get used to the two hand operation for the shifting. I heard those big names are moving towards 12spd this year so maybe there will be some good deals on 11spd e-groups.

A few things I also consider:
1. Low gearing. My two other road bikes all have 50/34 and 11/32. The lowest gear ratio is not exact 1:1. I'd like to have at least 1:1 if not less. I have aging knees.
2. The new Crux doesn't have an FD mount. So does this mean this bike can only do 1X? Is it possible to use a clamp-on FD if I want really low gearing? Don't know what size FD clamp for Crux either.
3. I don't see any fender mounts on the Crux frame. Are there any clip on full fenders available for this type of frames?

Thank you!

AX

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Old 01-19-19, 01:15 PM
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A few things to consider before buying -

Steerer tube, who much is this cut-down?

Brakes, you need to choose between mechanical and hydraulic, hydraulic will generally perform better than mechanical, and self adjust. If you looking an electric shifting, Hydraulic will probably be the only option.

FD or lack of, having had a quick online, this bike looks to be designed around 1x11/12/13 gearing, this really limits you to SRAM, and maybe ROTOR or FSA in the future and eliminates Shimano, as they really don't do 1x road gearing, asking at a Specialised dealer who stocks these may be a good idea?

Would look in depth at the cost of doing a full build of this vs just buying a complete bike, as road discs (esp Hydraulic) are still a long way off being cost-effective to buy as an aftermarket part, and if you looking at electric shifting, getting it from the factory is a lot easier than doing it yourself.


For fenders, again, ask at a Specialized dealer, thinking your only option will be clip-on's.
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Old 01-19-19, 01:51 PM
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keep shopping

Measure Seat tube diameter and use that data for shopping for your clamp on FD

You can also seek out Clamp band adapters to use Braze on style Front Mechs..

But This, Reads like you are wanting a different bike, look for one of those, instead...
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Old 01-19-19, 04:08 PM
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First and most important, is the frame you are considering the right size and is the steerer long enough to fit you?

Then, jimc101 makes a very good point. Building a bike from individually sourced components is generally significantly more expensive then buying a complete bike, particularly for a rider not very familiar with what's out there. It can be a practical project if:

1) You have very specific components in mind and can't get just what you want as a prebuilt bike.
2) You have a good source for take-off or used parts or a lot of left-overs from previous bikes and know what fits and is compatible with what.
3) You can do all of the assembly work yourself and not have to pay an LBS to put it together.

That bargain frame set may not be a bargain at all.
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Old 01-19-19, 04:44 PM
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The frameset is the right size, the steer tube is actually uncut. It's a show room bike with spacers above stem. I'm 6 foot(183cm), 35.5 inch inseam, the frame size is 58cm.

My current two bikes were built by myself from framesets. They're less complex since they're rim brake mechanical bikes. I suspect disc/electric setup work is more involved. The reason I don't like about buying a stock bike is that it's hard for me to find the right bar width/reach/drop(44, shallow short), stem length(110), angle(0-5), saddle type, post set back(25), crank length. A 58cm stock bike usually comes with a 175mm crank, but I like 172.5mm better. Not to mention the low gearings with compact cranks. Now, even if I have to swap out even half of the parts I listed to get fit the way I want, I might as well build it just the way I want to begin with.
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Old 01-19-19, 05:55 PM
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OK, I'm sold. You meet my #1 criterium, you can't find what you want over-the-counter. I've also built up my last three bikes from bare frames and for the same reason, to get specific sizes and gearing. Enjoy the project.
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Old 01-19-19, 06:33 PM
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Definitely go hydraulic disc! Its so nice, especially for your intended use. Another big bonus of getting discs: no more rim wear!

Id make sure to find out whether you can use a FD before buying that frame, lest you have regrets later. An alternative to consider is a Diverge frameset; at least the model 1 step down from S-works is built with 2X so that might be more likely to suit you better. The S-Works frame may be the same but Im not sure.

As for gearing, if you want to go with the lower ratios then go for Ultegra, which supports 11-34 cassettes. Dura-Ace does not. With a compact crank youd have 1:1 then. You can go lower with a microcompact crank, like a Praxis Works Zayante which is available in 48/32. I think this makes a ton of sense for the vast majority of people - realistically, how many people need a higher ratio than 48x11? You can still go damn fast, and the smaller rings mean a bit of weight lost and tighter gear steps! Whats not to like?

Or consider SRAM Force 1. You could use the 10-42 cassette with a 38, 40, or 42T crankset. 1X is sweet for the simplicity. The downside is going to be larger steps between gears. How much this matters is personal.

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Old 01-19-19, 06:43 PM
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Sounds like you have the money so build the bike tou want. There is nearly always a compromise somewhere. Start with the things you won't or can't compromise on and go from there.
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